SilverXJ wrote: I believe some lifters are smaller because a) if there is tight bore they still won't bind and b) Dodge V8s spec a lifter diameter of 0.9035"-0.9040", which the other lifters checked adhere to. I guess that extra clearance doesn't concern them. Personally I would like a lifter made to size for our engine, not one that is made to fit something else and just happens to be close enough for ours.
The aftermarket may modify the dimensions of the lifter to work in the Mopar engines?, but it's my understanding that they don't make lifters for the Mopars?, the AMC lifters work in the Mopars but the Mopars won't work in the AMC's, so they just make AMC lifters.
You can get more power out of ANY engine!!!
ASE Master certified engine machinist, gas and diesel
Question for dwg86. What Engle cam were you running? Did they do a custom grind for you? I checked their site and didn't see anything listed for our engines, 258 or 242. Plenty for Chevy & Ford straight-6 but not us.
Question for everybody: anyone tried to open the pushrod holes on the head to allow for the lifters to pass thru? Wouldn't mind changing cams half-as-much if i didn't have to pull the head! Can this be done w/out gettin into the water jacket or making the material too thin to stay intact? I've heard that you can pull the tappets from the bores w/ a magnet and lay em down in the galley, pull the cam and then put em back thru the bores and bring them out the front or bottom of the block to avoid head removal. Any thoughts? Sounded kinda sketchy to me. I plan to mill the head again so i wont be attempting it, but might be good to know for the future. Seems like it'd be hard not to scratch the new tappets if you have to lay em down in the galley before putting in. -C
I forget who exactly did it, but someone spent hours grinding out the head so that he could use a magnetic tool to get the lifters out without taking off the head. I don't recall issues of hitting water jackets, but I'm sure he removed the bare minimum in order to get them out.
Torqsplit wrote:Question for dwg86. What Engle cam were you running? Did they do a custom grind for you? I checked their site and didn't see anything listed for our engines, 258 or 242. Plenty for Chevy & Ford straight-6 but not us.
Question for everybody: anyone tried to open the pushrod holes on the head to allow for the lifters to pass thru? Wouldn't mind changing cams half-as-much if i didn't have to pull the head! Can this be done w/out gettin into the water jacket or making the material too thin to stay intact? I've heard that you can pull the tappets from the bores w/ a magnet and lay em down in the galley, pull the cam and then put em back thru the bores and bring them out the front or bottom of the block to avoid head removal. Any thoughts? Sounded kinda sketchy to me. I plan to mill the head again so i wont be attempting it, but might be good to know for the future. Seems like it'd be hard not to scratch the new tappets if you have to lay em down in the galley before putting in. -C
Give them a call. They can grind 6 cylinder cams, they don't have them listed but they can do it. I used the one of the profiles they have listed on thier site for the amc v8. I used the same grind on intake and exhaust, 214 duration @.050 with a .501 lift. I had them grind it with a 112 lobe center with 3 degrees advance. The cam performed well, but I think I would have liked it better with more compression. If I remember correctly my compression was 9.25 static and 7.8 DCR. I had a zero deck with a .043 head gasket, so my quench was .043. I ran 87 octane without even a hint of detonation. I live in Atlanta. I think we are about 1000ft above sea level. No problems with detonation with 100 deg summer temps.
Torqsplit wrote:I've heard that you can pull the tappets from the bores w/ a magnet and lay em down in the galley, pull the cam and then put em back thru the bores and bring them out the front or bottom of the block to avoid head removal. Any thoughts? Sounded kinda sketchy to me.
Wow that would be painfull and would take you twice as long compared to just pulling the head. Pulling the head isnt hard at all in our Jeeps. The only crappy thing about it is paying attention to used head bolts.
gradon wrote:I forget who exactly did it, but someone spent hours grinding out the head so that he could use a magnetic tool to get the lifters out without taking off the head. I don't recall issues of hitting water jackets, but I'm sure he removed the bare minimum in order to get them out.
I think that was Flash.. who was very active on here but now has dissappeared. (hasnt been here since 2010).
Whoever it was did say you had to be carefull of water jackets.. but its doable. I thought about it.. but i just didnt want to take the time to do it. I mean how often do you really need to pull the lifters out? It would be a different story if your constantly changing cams etc..
Hey guys, sorry to let this thread fall asleep but i've been busy. Anyone have experience with the Speed-Pro HT-2011"R" lifter?? I ordered one just to compare it to the standard SealedPower HT2011 and it is very different! I'll try to get some pics posted for you guys. i showed it to my macinist and he didn't have anything beyond normal observations to say about it. He did let me weigh them all though! the Rhodes anti-pump i took out of the motor was 106grams(with most all the oil removed since i disassembled them all to compare, the SealedPower was 108grams and the SpeedPro 2011"R" was 111grams. marginal difference for a low-RPM motor but interesting. I'll try to get more info up soon for you all. Thanks!
Why are you messing with these near 0 lash racing lifters and lifters that bleed down at low RPM? You aren't using a cam with that much duration that you are losing low RPM power and you won't be reving it that high to need near 0 lash lifters.
The last time I messed with a set of near zero lash lifters (2011R) it wasn't thing special and the only discernible difference was the addition of a snap ring so it won't come apart with lash.
Thanks for the reply, i honestly wasn't for sure what they meant by calling these 'zero-lash' lifters. Seemed to me all hydraulic lifters are designed to accomplish zero-lash aren't they? I'd be perfectly happy with the standard Sealedpower 2011, i was just hoping to possibly find something of better quality material, which the R's seemed to be. I know i don't need any of the selling points for these, i was just checking them out. Interesting to note, the SealedPower lifter has made in USA on the label, not Mexico. I want to mic these when i get home for diameter, i'm hoping the Sealed power will be of the larger dia spec of the ones noted in the link you gave us earier. I could not find a listing for the Johnson/hylifts anywhere now. They dont list a 2011 on their catalog anymore and nothing for any Chrysler smallblock for the years that would suit us. Sounded nice but i think they have dissappeared.
Torqsplit wrote:Thanks for the reply, i honestly wasn't for sure what they meant by calling these 'zero-lash' lifters.
It means you can run very little or even 0 lash with out them falling apart.
Interesting to note, the SealedPower lifter has made in USA on the label, not Mexico. I want to mic these when i get home for diameter, i'm hoping the Sealed power will be of the larger dia spec of the ones noted in the link you gave us earier.
I would be interested to see pictures and measurements.
I could not find a listing for the Johnson/hylifts anywhere now. They dont list a 2011 on their catalog anymore and nothing for any Chrysler smallblock for the years that would suit us. Sounded nice but i think they have dissappeared.
Last time I looked at their catalog it was disappointing. However, I purchased a set a few months ago so they still have them. Just call them up and ask for them.
