fresh stroker questions

[jaguar1688]

Had my first stroker done, ported/performance head, valves 01557 intake: 01556 exhaust. Had block done 30 over, sealed power 677ap30 pistions and Molly rings. 30th's off head surface and block deck surface. Not happy on the cost I supplied all parts except for the head lol came to 1950$. Short block and head assembled.Now that broke me my stock h/o cam is in great shape can I use it with this set up ok? Also how about head gasket I have the mopar .051 on hand now. Planning to run rc9yc plugs on start.

[jaguar1688]

* it was a 4.0 H/O out of a 92 yj. Typical stroker 4.2 rods iand crank with arp bolts *

[SilverXJ]

If you didn't keep the lifters in order in some way or if you changed blocks you will need new lifters and do a cam break in. How many miles on the cam in question?

Also, you have .030" taken off the head? That seems quite a bit. You may want to CC the head and see what your compression ratio is.

What valves are those? I quick google didn't yield anything. Just curious.

[jaguar1688]

Yeah I wasn't to happy the shop just did the deck without calling. I was just going for a 4.5 budget build. Cam has 90k on it or so. I have new lifters for it.. I believe the valves are here. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem ... cmd=VIDESC he said the valve/head job would work well with oem or longer duration cam but I prefer a lower end power which I think the OEM H/O cam will provide..? Also do u know anything about where to get a pin and spring for cam gear , dealership? Thank you

[SilverXJ]

Ok. So its just a stock replacement valve.

Are you sure he said "thirthy thou" and not "three thou"? I can see someone taking .030" (thirty thou) off the block to reduce the deck clearance, but I see no reason to take .030" off the head unless requested. No way was the head warped that much.

If you don't went spend anymore you will do fine with the OEM cam. Plus you won't have to get different springs. Check it for pitting and scuffing. You should see a nice polished path on the lobe. Check your lifter preload though.

[jaguar1688]

I tried to take a decent pic of the invoice work, and attached it for u, if my cell cooperated. Im thinking he did say 30 thou for the head, and 30 ths for.30 block. I'm new to internal engine work, just turning 21 I'm getting the $ to explore it. Checking Lifter load. Ill Google it, is it rather simple?

[casual]

What year is the cam from?

87-95, install it a few degrees advanced. That will help boost the lower end slightly! In stock fom it holds power to 6500rpm...sincelss. Stock form is -8*..-4* would be the best all around!

[Cheromaniac]

Had my first stroker done, ported/performance head, valves 01557 intake: 01556 exhaust. Had block done 30 over, sealed power 677ap30 pistions and Molly rings. 30th's off head surface and block deck surface. Not happy on the cost I supplied all parts except for the head lol came to 1950$. Short block and head assembled.Now that broke me my stock h/o cam is in great shape can I use it with this set up ok? Also how about head gasket I have the mopar .051 on hand now. Planning to run rc9yc plugs on start.

Looks like you've done a virtual copy of the 4.6L poor man's stroker that I have. A 30 thou grind from the head AND from the block deck sounds way too much and that would raise the SCR to ~10.3:1. You really need to check with the machine shop how much they actually removed so you don't run into trouble later. The 30 thou may have been just the cylinder overbore.
You can use your stock cam with new lifters, and I recommend that you install it dot-to-dot with the timing set. That's how I have mine and it works great.

[jaguar1688]

Alright, ill get down there today and investigate, cause they also didn't give me my oil filter adapter and the threaded plug the oil pressure sensor threads into. Should I just get new ones, idk where to find them? If anyone does let me know... $$Dealer? If I use the oem cam. Would zinc additive be needed? I was planning to break in on sae30 rotella, so I would really be just seating rings right, which don't need a ton of zinc like a new cam.

[SilverXJ]

Just get back your old ones. No reason for new ones. As for the oil I would use something with a lot of Zinc for the cam break in and first few miles. Joe Gibbs and Brad Penn both make excellent breakin oils. I would still use a oil that has a decent amount of Zinc even with the stock cam.

[jaguar1688]

Ok so I went down to the shop, they are digging for those oil filter block parts. They will replace for free if they can't find em along with the cam spring and load pin. And yes they did take .030 off deck and head so I will be running on 93 octane only 10.3.1 compression most likely. He said to use a .060 washer in between head and rocker pivot to solve Lifter binding.... If spring preload test shows to much drive in the lifter, that seems like a logical idea as I understand. Now with the high compression should I get a different cam? They gave me few bottles of zddp for break in too, my cam does have tiny rough spots at the far edge of the lateral lobe borders, where it drops down to the cam.

[Cheromaniac]

And yes they did take .030 off deck and head so I will be running on 93 octane only 10.3.1 compression most likely. He said to use a .060 washer in between head and rocker pivot to solve Lifter binding.... If spring preload test shows to much drive in the lifter, that seems like a logical idea as I understand. Now with the high compression should I get a different cam?

Wow, the machine shop really did go wild with the block/head decking. The 60 thou shims will indeed correct the lifter preload but your biggest concern is going to be pinging. With a 10.3:1 SCR, the stock cam won't have enough duration to bleed off cylinder pressure at low rpm (would have been fine if the SCR was a full point lower at 9.3 like mine). You might be able to lower the SCR by polishing the combustion chambers and piston dishes but even then, I doubt you'd lower it enough to solve this issue without going for a longer duration cam.

[jaguar1688]

Yeah the shop had a field day lol. I took it to a shop that mainly builds race motors. They do quality jobs, but I think way too much at times, cause I pretty much paid $1,600 for labor., They never called me once to ask if any of this was ok, over the 3 months they dragged on it.... I supplied them with the 4.5 poor mans stroker build sheet, now I have this wild high compression motor. Anyway With what $$ they didn't steal from me I managed to get on summit and order the rocker shims and a new cam. I got the comp cam 68-201-4. Increased duration, not a terrible price and it was in stock so I can get this jeep going with some summer left.
Ill be breaking it in with rotella 30 wt. and redline additive (20 minute period) ...drain, then rotella 30wt with zddplus for about 500-1000 miles. Then running 10w30 from there out. I'm planning to switch to Synthetic around 2500-3000k sound alright?
As far as compression I am getting thickest head gasket possible locally (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... ead+gasket)
Also will running the cooler rc9yc plug, if that helps
Wish me luck

[SilverXJ]

Rotella isn't what it use to be. Even diesel oil has had a large reduction in ZDDP. If you really want an off the shelf oil I would look at Valvoline VR1

[jaguar1688]

Alright, maybe ill persuade the engine shop to lend me some brad Penn. No rotella even with the redline break in ? Or zddplus... I get it cheap, jw. And are our rockers in the 4.0 adjustable, when finding lash or just tighten down and inspect Lifter preload.. (shim rocker if needed). Thanks for all the help.