Stroker sounds tight, runs rough HELP

[Cheromaniac]

MAP adjuster.....i have not disconnected it but have adjusted the voltage back down to 5.0 volts and checked it while running to see if there is any fluctuation....there is none....do you whole heartedly reccommend me to ffully disconnect it and wire it back factory? I will also check that middle wire to ensure it has 1.5-2.0 volts at idle today.

Leave it connected for now and just check the output voltage from the MAP sensor from the middle wire before doing anything else with it.

[Swampbilly21]

RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT

Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.

IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. Revised 05-28-2012

If you dont mind, I would like the instruction sheet for the TPS ground relocation or modifications please.....

Ooook...I again messed around with the distributor and got it 100% the way ive been told to do it....it was preeeetttty dang close already but performed it again to dial it in....lo and behold the truck ran great for about 45mins at idle. Shut it down cleaned up around the truck started it up and died after 40 seconds. ahhh!!!! That was on sunday....today i got home started it up and let it run....and run...and run... ran for about 20 mins and died by itself. Temp via temp gun read 175* @ t stat housing. Started it up again and ran "ok". When I apply just a little throttle....it bogs for a second and black smoke roils from the exhaust tip.....hmmm running rich? Checked my air/fuel mixture gauge....it says IDEAL @ idle...hmmm...is the timing not advancing in order to burn the fuel being dumped into the cylinder wen i give it a lil throttle? delayed response at advancing timing? pulled #4 spark plug(easiest one) BLACK BLACK plug....rich runner me thinks....any ideas?

[racing89]

Should still start and run with ALL input sensers unplugged( except for m.a.p.) Big vacuum leak?

Closed loop problem only? Any sensor input wires jammed and shorted to ground? An o2 can short out internally and cause wacky stuff. Excessive back pressure?( plugged exaust) Get a vacuum guage

[doublins]

Just to be sure, you ARE using the alignment hole in the distributor rotor for the 4.0 and not the one for the 2.5, right? When looking top-down on the rotor, the 4.0 alignment hole is the one on the outer edge that is most counter-clockwise. Your problem sounds 100% timing related, and I bet what´s happening is that the distributor is indexed improperly, such that the rotor blade is falling outside of the timing range over which it can allow a spark to gap to the correct post.

Turn the engine to TDC again, pull the distributor cover off, and insert a skinny screwdriver or small allen wrench, whatever, through the alignment hole that lines up with the distributor housing. Ensure that you didn´t accidentally use the 2.5L alignment hole- aftermarket rotors have holes for both, and they are easily confused.

-Chris

[cruiser54]

RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT

Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.

IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed. Revised 05-28-2012

If you dont mind, I would like the instruction sheet for the TPS ground relocation or modifications please.....

Ooook...I again messed around with the distributor and got it 100% the way ive been told to do it....it was preeeetttty dang close already but performed it again to dial it in....lo and behold the truck ran great for about 45mins at idle. Shut it down cleaned up around the truck started it up and died after 40 seconds. ahhh!!!! That was on sunday....today i got home started it up and let it run....and run...and run... ran for about 20 mins and died by itself. Temp via temp gun read 175* @ t stat housing. Started it up again and ran "ok". When I apply just a little throttle....it bogs for a second and black smoke roils from the exhaust tip.....hmmm running rich? Checked my air/fuel mixture gauge....it says IDEAL @ idle...hmmm...is the timing not advancing in order to burn the fuel being dumped into the cylinder wen i give it a lil throttle? delayed response at advancing timing? pulled #4 spark plug(easiest one) BLACK BLACK plug....rich runner me thinks....any ideas?

Find your Intake Air Temp sensor. It's the sensor just to the rear of the throttle body, has 2 wires, and screws into the intake manifold.
Where it's connector plugs into the harness you will see that one of the wires on the harness side is brown with a white stripe. Follow the brown with white stripe wire back into the harness. You'll have to open up the split-loom plastic sheathing to follow it. It will come to a splice with 2 other brown with white wires with duct tape over them. They're from the TPS and the CTS. The 3 wires will be spliced to a single wire headed toward the C101 connector if you have an 87 or 88. If you have an 89 or 90, you do not have the C101 bulkhead connector.

Now go to the MAP sensor. Follow the brown with white wire into the harness from there. You will find a splice with 2 more brown with white wires with duct tape over them. At the splice you will find the 3 wires connected to a single brown with white wire going toward the C101, or just along the firewall towards the engine if you have an 89 or 90. Along with the MAP sensor that you traced, they are the ECU sensor ground port and the diagnostic connector on the passenger inner fender.

You now have 2 sets of 3 brown with white wires, one near the firewall and one near the engine.

Cut the splices out of each set of wires eliminating not only the crappy factory splices, but also the single wire between them. Bring both sets of 3 wires together. Solder the 2 sets of wires together and insulate them properly with tape or shrink tubing.

Zip-tie up your new sensor loom to allow for engine movement. I prefer to cover it with some new split-loom or wrap it neatly with electrical tape when done.



Revised 03-09-12