First stoker build

Newbies, and basic Stroker Recipes... Get started with your first stroker here!!
jcori3
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Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

One more thing i wanted to mention is that my motor is running a little hotter than it did when stock. Is this due to boring it out 30 over? Its not like dangerously hot but it gets over 100 degrees here in texas in the summer and when i am running on the highway with the ac on it runs hotter than usual. Do i need to run a cooler thermostat? Will this fix it or do i need to get a high flow water pump. I have a stock pump on there now which is basically new.
jcori3
Where's the "any" key?
Where's the "any" key?
Posts: 26
Joined: April 4th, 2012, 9:39 am
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Vehicle Model: wrangler

Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

Ok so just got back from dealership and bought a new cam sensor. Installed it and it wont run for shit. Also light came back on for code 11. Do the cam sensors have to be synced with something or is there something special you have to do? I can put my old ratty one back in and motor runs fine except for light coming on. I am at a loss here.
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Cheromaniac
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Re: First stoker build

Post by Cheromaniac »

jcori3 wrote:One more thing i wanted to mention is that my motor is running a little hotter than it did when stock. Is this due to boring it out 30 over? Its not like dangerously hot but it gets over 100 degrees here in texas in the summer and when i am running on the highway with the ac on it runs hotter than usual. Do i need to run a cooler thermostat? Will this fix it or do i need to get a high flow water pump. I have a stock pump on there now which is basically new.
The overbore won't make any difference whatsoever to the engine's running temp. and a lower temp. t'stat won't help you. Check the drivebelt tension and make sure that there's no more than 1/2" of deflection on its longest free length. If it's too slack the engine will run hotter and that'll be made even worse when the AC is on.
went and got a autozone crank sensor and intalled it. Light stays on and after a day it left me stranded. Fortunately i had the old one in the jeep and the tools to replace it where i was broke down. Put the old one back in and fired right up and runs fine.
Remember what I said earlier about some new aftermarket sensors being duds right out of the box?
Ok so just got back from dealership and bought a new cam sensor. Installed it and it wont run for shit. Also light came back on for code 11. Do the cam sensors have to be synced with something or is there something special you have to do? I can put my old ratty one back in and motor runs fine except for light coming on.


If you swapped in an aftermarket cam, you may need to index the dizzy. The cam position sensor stays in a fixed position relative to the dizzy and doesn't need to be disturbed. Sounds like you either didn't install the new one correctly (did you remember to plug it into the wiring harness?) or you were unlucky enough to get another bad sensor right out of the box.
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car :lol:
jcori3
Where's the "any" key?
Where's the "any" key?
Posts: 26
Joined: April 4th, 2012, 9:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
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Vehicle Model: wrangler

Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

Ok will check the belt tension. I know i got it pretty tight when i installed the belt but hey never hurts just to look it over again. I figured since it was a new motor it might take a little time to wear in and loosen up a little.


Yeah that is why i went to the dealership and got a new mopar cam sensor. But if the disributor is out then why does it run so good with the old cam sensor and when i put a new one in it runs like crap? That is the part i dont understand. It runs so good with the original cam sensor in it but there are bare wires showing near the plug where the wire protector has just rotted away. So i figured i need to replace the old cam sensor anyways.

Now when u talk about theis dizzy the distributor i guess i am a little confused about that. I turned motor over and put number 1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke and put the distributor in where the rotor was facing at number 1 on the cap. Was this not right? Oh and the cam is a aftermarket cam but it is a stock cam. Came with the engine kit that the machine shop got me when i had all the work done.
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Cheromaniac
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Re: First stoker build

Post by Cheromaniac »

Yes, dizzy = distributor and it sounds like you have it correctly positioned. Since your cam is a stock replacement, the dizzy should be in the stock position anyway.
But if the disributor is out then why does it run so good with the old cam sensor and when i put a new one in it runs like crap?
Because it's most likely that the new cam sensor is a dud. It doesn't matter that it's a Mopar unit 'cause it was probably made outside the US anyway (maybe China?).
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car :lol:
jcori3
Where's the "any" key?
Where's the "any" key?
Posts: 26
Joined: April 4th, 2012, 9:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
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Vehicle Model: wrangler

Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

Do you think i should just take it to the dealership and have them put it on a machine and then they can see exactly what everything is doing?
dwg86
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Re: First stoker build

Post by dwg86 »

Sounds like the distributor is not installed correctly. There is a hole in the pulse ring that you put a 3/16 punch or drill bit through to the dist housing. There are different holes for different engines (4.0 or 2.5). You have to use the right hole in the pulse ring. You line up the pulse ring with the dist using a 3/16 punch before you install the distributor. Then you install the dist with the tangs on the dist to line up with the clamp bolt hole in the block. The rotor will be pointing to the 5 oclock position. It's easier to see in the maintanence manual than its is to explain.

Also this is right out of the maint manual... "The position of the distributor determines fuel synchronization only. It does not determine ignition timing. All ignition timing requirements are handled by the powertrain control module (PCM)."
jcori3
Where's the "any" key?
Where's the "any" key?
Posts: 26
Joined: April 4th, 2012, 9:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
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Vehicle Model: wrangler

Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

This is the method for a 97? I have a distributor that has the rotor and the cap. its not the 2000 and newer model that has the cam sensor mounted on top of the oil drive. do i still have to do this for mine?
dwg86
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Re: First stoker build

Post by dwg86 »

That is what I was reading out of alldata for 1997 jeep.
jcori3
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Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

I want to thank everyone that helped me with getting my jeep running. Got all the bugs worked out and no lights. Runs great and doesnt get warmer than it did before.
dwg86
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Re: First stoker build

Post by dwg86 »

:cheers:
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Re: First stoker build

Post by Cheromaniac »

jcori3 wrote:I want to thank everyone that helped me with getting my jeep running. Got all the bugs worked out and no lights. Runs great and doesnt get warmer than it did before.
So which insecticide did you use to get rid of the bugs? ;)
1992 XJ 4.6 I6 - 5MT - Stroker build-up, Stroker "recipes" Sold
1995 Mustang GT - 4AT - Modded Sold
2006 Mustang GT - 5MT - Modded Midlife Crisis Car :lol:
jcori3
Where's the "any" key?
Where's the "any" key?
Posts: 26
Joined: April 4th, 2012, 9:39 am
Vehicle Year: 1997
Vehicle Make: jeep
Vehicle Model: wrangler

Re: First stoker build

Post by jcori3 »

followed dwg8g advice and pulled the distributor, lined the pulse ring um with it and put a drill bit in it and then stabbed it on tdc. It fired up and runs perfect. No lights at all.
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superj
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Re: First stoker build

Post by superj »

badass man
We broke something, I think it was traction.
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