Leaking like BP oil spill

[BigRedJeepJimmy]

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and I need some advice.
Im running a custom homebrew turbo setup on my 98 tj 4.0
I recently pulled my head out of my *** and got the turbo running good, achieving boost and the correct a/f ratio.
So about 3 days after driving about, watching the blow off scare people half to death (turboxs rfl) I notice what looks like a larger than normal rms leak...
So I drop the pan and replace the rms using a plastic straw as a shoehorn, rip the first one because i'm impatient, so I run to the store a buy a second one.
I get it in no problem, no issues, easy!...so then I replace the pan gasket and I'm off and running.

2 days later I'm going on a 300 mile round trip to the mountains for some camping. half way there I get out to check fluid levels and its leaking all over...everywhere.
I put oil in up to the safe line and continue my trip. (such a bad idea)
I get to my destination and again oil is low by a quart, so I refill and stay the weekend happy and drunk by the fire.

When leaving I fill up with some gas and hit the road, but, people are often interested in a turbo jeep so... I get up to 5-6lbs of boost leaving the station and make it about 20 min down the highway before "CHECK GAUGES" starts flashing at me. Oil pressure was at about 10 so I pull off and check it. 4 QUARTS LATER ITS BACK TO THE SAFE LINE.

Anyway we make it home adding oil every so often. I take down the pan replace the rms AGAIN this time being even more carefull, replace the pan gasket again and even for the hell of it I replaced the valve cover gasket.

So I go out and test drive it, its great no problems.... then I go into boost and again it starts coming out, not like before but enough to be a 2" puddle, after going into the store to buy some groceries and coming back out.

I know the 4.0 is notorious for a little rms leak but this isn't right. Its definitely oil, not the trans fluid, not the valve cover gasket either. All the turbo lines are dry and no leaks anywhere near the fittings.

All I see is a lot of oil coming through the dust shield and bellhousing. It takes time for a rms to stop leaking after replacement but is this normal and I have to stay out of boost???

Im about ready to check myself into a loony bin.

What am I missing? Anyone?

[rammit11]

I am no expert on turbo setups, but to me sounds like you are getting to much crankcase pressure built up from the turbo.

[BigRedJeepJimmy]

Thanks for the fast reply, I had a feeling it was too much pressure in the crankcase, Im just hoping I didn't fry the rings...
I'm still running a stock pcv that routes into my air filter... in a very small diameter hose too.
maybe tomorrow I will rip off the pcv and put a breather on the valve cover.

[BigRedJeepJimmy]

Put a breather on the first hole today, still leaking pretty bad out the back of the pan, so I replaced the pan gasket again(using a little more rtv in the rear valley)
let it set up for some time and drove it fine for the first trip, then next trip oil is coming back out again from what looks like the rms again at a steady drip.

ideas??

[92tank]

are you putting the rms in in the right direction(lip facing inward)? and are you using a LITTLE rtv on the ears of the lower part and all the way out to the edge of the main cap? or its just your rings are so bad that most of the boost is just blowing by and the rms is the easyest route out

[BigRedJeepJimmy]

or its just your rings are so bad that most of the boost is just blowing by and the rms is the easyest route out

yeah, at this point, i think so.

I'll run a compression test soon.

As far as the rms yeah its in facing forward rtv is exactly in those spots, im no expert but i've done some reading on it and i'm confident its in right.

...balls.

i'd love to do a 5.0 stroker with my turbo setup eventually but im all out of money for now

[SilverXJ]

I've found that the rear pan bolts need a bit of extra torque at times.

What are you doing for fuel control?

[BigRedJeepJimmy]

yeah Im constantly checking those rear two bolts for re-torquing...

for fuel i modified the stock rail with a welded bung on the end for my aem universal adjustable pressure regulator,
so i have a feed line and return line running to the tank where I made a custom plate to screw into the center with 90* fittings.
split sec piggyback with a professional tune (not by me haha) also fuel pump is a walboro 255 and injectors are GM 36lb,

its almost too much because my bosch wideband is always reading me rich by a little.

but it doesnt matter much for now...

[jsawduste]

Do you have a properly set up CCV system that is actually working ?

Rear elbow on VC (has a .043 orifice bleed hole) to manifold vacuum.

Front elbow to the air cleaner or a monkey butted push in breather.

The rear elbow/CCV lines often become plugged or restricted. Thus the engine cannot purge the internal pressures properly.

Are you getting oil pushing out from the front breather on the VC ?

[BigRedJeepJimmy]

There is no oil coming through the front breather, I also took off the rear 90* and made sure that hole was not clogged so that for sure is working.

Its cool, I have accepted that I fried my rings, makes sense boost is making its way down to the pan and then finding a way out.

Had fun while it lasted.