Need help with Ls1 valve info..

[Dezertxj88]

I know its been done, but the info thats out there isn't the most informative.
From what I understand the stock jeep 4.0 valves are, 1.91" dia, valve length 4.912", Stem dia .312", single grooved.
The Ls1 valves I'm looking at are 2.00" dia, 4.911", .341", single grooved.

These are the exact valves I'm bidding on actually. May end up using the exhaust as well..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ls1-ls2-ls6-lq4 ... 81&vxp=mtr

Anyway, will I be able to use these valves & valve springs? I know some machine will be needed and such..I'm just curious what machine work? No one says much about it, and gonridin doesn't get on anymore, and 6time hasn't replyed to any Pm's for a while! Trying to get info asap. Thank you guys.

[Dezertxj88]

Also looking at these SBC valves..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-1-94-TRW-in ... es&vxp=mtr

Would prefer the LS1 stuff for its less weight but, idk what all goes into running to those valves.

[doublins]

Have you considered the Dodge Magnum valves? They are SS, swirl polished, lighter, and considerably cheaper than stock 4.0 valves, possibly not as cheap as the chevy stuff, but still totally worth looking into- I have the part #s around here somewhere...


OK just found them and they are not as inexpensive as I remembered... possibly still worth looking into though

In- P5249877 Stainless swirl polished 1.97 $16 ea
Ex- P5249876 Stainless swirl polished 1.625 $14.50 ea

[SilverXJ]

Don't go though Mopar for the Magnum valves. They are much cheaper in the aftermarket.

[Antifreeze2]

I got mine through engnbldr on Ebay. I was impressed with the valves I got, especially at the price. I think it was 125 shipped for 16 (v8 set). The only trouble I am having is with the retainer/spring combo, but that's just my build.

[Dezertxj88]

Ok to make this a little easier, I'm trying to use my stock valve springs..no need for an upgrade. I'm looking at the SBC 1.94/1.50 valves, as well as the magnum ones. LS1 valves would be sweet but more work than what I want.
Anyway, does anyone have the stock valve length? I've been told 4.88x? and then I see online that its 4.911? I'm basically looking for a valve that can be put in and still use stock springs and retainers. I have a few bent intake valves, so they need replacing for sure.

So anyone have specs for stock intake valves and stock exhaust valves? Silver I believe you told me they were 4.88 something and then onine shows them as 4.911..

[6TIME]

I know its been done, but the info thats out there isn't the most informative.
From what I understand the stock jeep 4.0 valves are, 1.91" dia, valve length 4.912", Stem dia .312", single grooved.
The Ls1 valves I'm looking at are 2.00" dia, 4.911", .341", single grooved.

These are the exact valves I'm bidding on actually. May end up using the exhaust as well..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ls1-ls2-ls6-lq4 ... 81&vxp=mtr

Anyway, will I be able to use these valves & valve springs? I know some machine will be needed and such..I'm just curious what machine work? No one says much about it, and gonridin doesn't get on anymore, and 6time hasn't replyed to any Pm's for a while! Trying to get info asap. Thank you guys.

All of the LS valves I've used were .313" diameter stem. You may be able to get away with having the shop ream the guides a bit to make them fit. .341" is standard SBC 11/32 diameter stems. To make the LS springs fit you will need to deepen the spring seats to get the right install height.

[Dezertxj88]

Thank you 6time..I'm glad to hear from you bud.
So ls1 valves with a .313" stem..what length? And stock valve springs/retainers can be used with the Ls1 valves?

[6TIME]

It seem like the LS valves were a bit shorter than the stock 4.0 valves. That was one of the reasons to have the spring seats cut deeper in addition to the 1.75"-1.8" LS spring install height.

[Dezertxj88]

Ok so what install height am I after?

1.7"-1.8" I'll probably end up running a BIG cam now that I'm using the LS1 valves/springs vs my stock springs & SBC valves. Thinking a retard comp 239 will fun lol..

[6TIME]

You need to check the springs on a tester to dial your Install ht. and open/closed pressures. Keep in mind that not all LS springs are equal... There are stockers for base LS engines 4.8, 5.3,6.0 and there are ones for more Performance oriented applications like..LS1, LS2, LS6, LS7,LSX, etc... There's a noticeable difference between these two groups. Some of the older perf. ones are blue but the newer ones are more commonly Yellow and sometimes labeled Z06 springs. If you plan on lots of lift and high RPM I'd say you could possibly have some valve control issues using stock LS springs depending on the cam profile. My Stock LS springs are happy to the rev limiter with .484" lift. The blue or yellow LS's would probably be fine If your going to be running the motor really hard. I have no idea what RPM's you are thinking? Keep in mind this motor was built to make torque.....

[Dezertxj88]

You need to check the springs on a tester to dial your Install ht. and open/closed pressures. Keep in mind that not all LS springs are equal... There are stockers for base LS engines 4.8, 5.3,6.0 and there are ones for more Performance oriented applications like..LS1, LS2, LS6, LS7,LSX, etc... There's a noticeable difference between these two groups. Some of the older perf. ones are blue but the newer ones are more commonly Yellow and sometimes labeled Z06 springs. If you plan on lots of lift and high RPM I'd say you could possibly have some valve control issues using stock LS springs depending on the cam profile. My Stock LS springs are happy to the rev limiter with .484" lift. The blue or yellow LS's would probably be fine If your going to be running the motor really hard. I have no idea what RPM's you are thinking? Keep in mind this motor was built to make torque.....

Oh absolutely, I'll be sticking with the 5300rpm limit. Not sure if you've seen, but I'm actually building a mini stroker with a 232 crank..Its cheaper than getting my 242 stock crank turned and decking the block & by bearings ect..
I payed like 160 for the 232 crank 20/20 turned with bearings. Which sets my pistons .005 above the deck, thus giving me a .038 quench..Much better than a 0 deck stock rebuild lol..Anyway 5300rpm limit, thinking the 239 comp installed a few degrees retarded to lower its power band some. I'm aiming for that cam, cuz I want a lopey idle..It'd be awsome to get a nice chunky idle going lol.
\
The springs/valves are out of a Lq4 which is the 6.0L from the Silvy SS..stuff came from the 317 heads so I'm already assuming its just base springs, nothing special..they don't appear to be yellow or blue..they actually look normal, steel colored. But these springs have been ran with .560" of lift at .50" or .60" by LS guys..Idk if its any different for us..like we can't have as much lift because how they are installed or something?
The comp 239 is .493" intake/.512"exhaust @ .50"..I'm gonna try and run the lopey cam honestly..Doesn't need to be a max horsepower screamer or anything, just something that you can have sun fun in, and something that sounds wicked!

[Dezertxj88]

Hey 6time, can you use the stock 317 retainer with the Ls6 valves?
I'd assume the ls1/lq4 ran the same valvetrain...so can you run the ls1 retainers with the ls6 valvesprings?

[6TIME]

As far as I know they all use the same valve stem diameter and single bead groove keeper design. The springs all seem to be the same general dimensions, but there is some pressure/install height differences through the years...

[gonridnu]

It's very doable and easy enough for lifts under .450 to use LS-1 valves and locks (they use a bead lock that is different from the jeep single groove) with stock springs. I'm pretty sure I used the Jeep retainer and I believe there may be a 1 degree difference in lock to retainer angle but it has been a none issue if it is.

I had enough room to shim into spring pressures of 90 lbs closed and 220 lbs. open with .055" to coil bind which are pretty much adequate numbers for a mild cam at design RPM. I would have liked some more open pressure but it wasn't there to get with the stock replacement springs. Intake and exhaust may shim differently to achieve max pressure before coil bind.

The stem diameters are slightly different but you'll wanna have your machine shop do bronze guide liners all the way around and hard seats on the exhaust so that will be handled. I had to order the thinnest hard seat insert Dura-Bond makes to stay out of the water jacket.

Rough cut the seats in and have 'em do a bowl blend while it's on the seat and guide machine to get the bulk of it hogged out below the seats and then hand port to smooth everything out before taking it back for the final valve job. But still remember to stay off the seats with your grinder. I raised the roof on my exhaust port .050" just because.

I'm sure I used a rubber outer teflon wiper positive style seal on the intake but not sure if I used em on the exhaust too. Sometimes I use an umbrella w/o-ring arrangement on the exhaust.

It's all pretty straight forward machine work and assembly for a competent shop. Just be sure to double and triple check your spring shimming so you have some room before coil bind.