In a pickle

[brokenujoint]

I did the Dino Low Buck Stroker build with the 677 pistons, bored 0.020 and exactly the way he did his to the Tee..

I didnt deck my block. It's only resurfaced.

258 connecting rods, 677 pistons, 258 crank and a 07 Cherokee block. i've been getting nervous as I learn more and more about quench and DCR and octane needs.

The short block is built from a shop and its ready to be turned into a long block. Now that I've learned about the desire/need to be at 0 deck should I pay the money to have this thing disassembled, 0 decked and re-assemble it again? It's got a stock head and a stock cam. I am at sea level(San Diego, CA) and am a rock crawler, not racer. It will be a 80% street daily driver so I need 87-89 octane with these gas prices. Is it worth the 300 bucks or whatever to go through the hassle of 0 decking when its pretty much a low build stroker?

[Sharp Rock]

I don't think you are going to get what you want with that combo.

It will always be your choice what you do. Options? Contact oletshot (member here) and see how far he can dish your pistons, disassemble, dish, deck, reassemble.

During my time researching, I ran across this thread where 1bolt posted what I thought was an excellent explaination on the dilema many face. Building it on the cheap for low octane, and low RPM torque. Check out post #9 in this thread.

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewt ... mogul#wrap

Best of luck with it.

Jerry

[brokenujoint]

Gonna take the block in to get it decked to zero, gonna run a stock cam and clean up the combustion chamber on the head about 1 cc and polish up the exhaust ports. This should get me
SCR 9.91:1
DCR 8.2:1
quench 0.043

This is as good as I can get with what I've got...

[Cheromaniac]

I did the Dino Low Buck Stroker build with the 677 pistons, bored 0.020 and exactly the way he did his to the Tee..

I didnt deck my block. It's only resurfaced.

258 connecting rods, 677 pistons, 258 crank and a 07 Cherokee block. i've been getting nervous as I learn more and more about quench and DCR and octane needs.

The short block is built from a shop and its ready to be turned into a long block. Now that I've learned about the desire/need to be at 0 deck should I pay the money to have this thing disassembled, 0 decked and re-assemble it again? It's got a stock head and a stock cam. I am at sea level(San Diego, CA) and am a rock crawler, not racer. It will be a 80% street daily driver so I need 87-89 octane with these gas prices. Is it worth the 300 bucks or whatever to go through the hassle of 0 decking when its pretty much a low build stroker?

I think this desire to get the quench as tight as possible has been overplayed. I've been running my stroker for more than 7 years in one of the hottest places on Earth, done 65k miles, and the 0.088" quench that frightens some people hasn't been an issue. I use 91 octane when it's over 90*F outside, 87 octane the rest of the time, and I use stock Champion RC12LYC plugs which are the hottest in the range.
If you're worried about detonation there are far more important details to consider than a tight quench i.e. 180* t'stat, good cooling system, smooth combustion chambers, smooth piston dishes, a real cold air intake that inhales ambient air, insulating the underside of the intake manifold, and making sure that the engine doesn't run lean.