engine removal instructions

[woodjeep]

Im going to pull the old motor next weekfrom my 92 Cherokee.. 253K. All the stuff on the outside is fairly understood. What has to be done at the tranny side/torque converter. I remember seeing somewhere that I had to unbolt it before removal. Any good links to the engine removal process...thanks in advance. Will take pictures

[SilverXJ]

There are 4 bolts on the flex plate to torque converter. You have to remove them. And the starter as well or course. After that is disconnected the next fun part if getting to the top transmission to block bolts. What I do is lift the engine up a bit, remove the long engine mount through bolts and bushings then lower the engine back down. This will let the engine side bracket rest directly on the frame side bracket and drop the engine enough to get an extension and a swivel up there.

[racing89]

Take cylinder head off in one big piece(after removing header panal and rad, all is good to get at up top) With the head, intake and exaust out of the way, the bell housing bolts, crank sensor and engine mount bolts are way less intimidating.

[SilverXJ]

You are going to put the engine back in like that too?

[racing89]

Yup. A new head gasket has never been a waste of time or money

[woodjeep]

Well, the new engine is all put together, manifolds and all ,except a couple of brackets so the heads not coming off that one. My main concern was the torque converter. I havent been that deep into a motor in many years and was unsure of how to get that part done. Can the converter bolt up regardless of engine position /rotation angle or can it bolt up universally. By that I mean the flex plate is indexed to the crank so it can only bolt up one way. Is it the same for the converter or must it be somehow marked and removed in the same position...top dead center/0 degree mark...stuff like that

[woodjeep]

By the way...where is the CPS. I have not been able to find it...92 Cherokee sport 4.0 AW4

[SilverXJ]

The CPS is on the driver's side of the bellhousing near the top. The torque converter might need to be indexed to the flex plate. I don't know about on the XJ but on the ZJ they went from indexed to non-indexed in 96 or 97. I don't recall seeing any marks so it is just spin and then mark it someplace you can see. Best bet is to check the flex plate against the converter prior to bolting the plate to the engine.

[herbiehind]

maybe i'm being stupid but why not pull the tranny too? if pulling grill and radiator is easy enough , just pull motor and tranny right out ?

[gradon]

Grill and radiator are easy enough to remove. You'll have to be careful to swing the ac's radiator out of the way w/o disco'ing it. It is way easier to pull the engine&tranny combo together in my 2wd ax15; also easier to mate the two together outside of Jeep). If doing so, I recommend having a 2nd hand to help guide(tug, pull, push, swing, lift) the combo while you are pulling the hoist. Make sure all wire's are disco'd.

[SilverXJ]

You don't have to pull the grill or the AC condenser if you don't pull the transmission. Just remove the radiator and you will have enough clearance to pull the engine out.

[amcinstaller]

man, youd think some of us have been to this rodeo a few times

[92tank]

man, youd think some of us have been to this rodeo a few times

only 5 times in the last six months, but i think im done with that for know. HOPEFULLY

[mountaineerjeff]

did this ever happen?

I just had to pull 2 in the last couple months. I pulled it 100% complete, from the clutch fan clear to the rear ujoint, driveshaft and all. then I could do all the work outside of the jeep, then I slid it back in whole again

[woodjeep]

Did some more searching and found this link which seems very informative

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... ne+removal


I'm going to try and get to it in a week or two