Newbie here, first post. My bro left me a stoker and he said he put in the kit from accurate power. Since they no longer exist, and I have searched hi and low on the web and in forums to no avail, I was hoping someone here has an idea of what the kit consisted of and what kind of numbers they put out. Thanks!
My '01 XJ just crapped out at a bad time. I have $500 and rebuilt stroker in the corner of the garage. I guess I don't have a choice but to pull it apart to make sure the internals are good and swap her in. I look forward to all your help.
Check Dino's(cheromaniac) site (top of the faq section) he had some of that info on there before, but I'm not sure if he removed it (haven't checked in a while)
IIRC the Accurate Power 4.6L stroker had 4.0L rods, forged pistons, Crane 753901 camshaft, and a big valve 2.02/1.60 head. CR was ~9.5:1 and output was ~265hp.
He is on NAXJA as Mike@Accurate, but he hasn't logged on since 2008. Maybe you can try to PM him there. I could have sworn I saw him post some place recently.
I know this is a little dated, but I've seen much worse... several years ago I bought one of their stroker kits, did the machine work & assembled the short block, then it sat for several years after I sold the vehicle before finishing & installing it. I remember very specifically the phone call ordering the kit, I did not use the big valve head though I now wish I has as I'd like to have one of those. Anyway last winter I picked up a reasonably nice ZJ that had what I assumed was a spun rod bearing due to the knock thinking that I could finish that engine & install it in the ZJ. Well it was a little more involved than that. however once I did finally get it in & went over it several times, got the fire extinguisher out and turned the key with great trepidation, it fired before the engine turned over one full time. I then spent the next two days trying to figure out why it would idle pretty decent, but if I tried to bring the revs up it started backfireing like crazy around 1800 rpm. I finally found that while the indexing looked good at #1 TDC it was actually 1 distributor gear tooth retarded. moved that forward & most all issue were resolved.
Anyway:
My kit had the rod & pistons assembled, the pistons were a forged Venolia unit, the total CC's in the bore was 27.8 with the piston .008 down the bore so with a .043 gasket I have .053 quench, my head measured 57 cc on the two chambers I checked the cam I got from them was a comp cams 68-231-4 the lifters were Clevite(not that those affect the CR) the calculator says my compression is 9.16 SCR & 8 DCR
not sure if any of that info helps but there it is. Not too long ago I was the receipt floating around I wish I could still get taht set up for the price I did then, BUT the pistons are loud especially till they warm up(Just the nature of Forged cans)
doc65 wrote:
My kit had the rod & pistons assembled, the pistons were a forged Venolia unit, the total CC's in the bore was 27.8 with the piston .008 down the bore so with a .043 gasket I have .051 quench, my head measured 57 cc on the two chambers I checked the cam I got from them was a comp cams 68-231-4 the lifters were Clevite(not that those affect the CR) the calculator says my compression is 9.16 SCR
Yup, I get the same 9.16:1 SCR with my calculator. Those pistons seem to be 26cc which is more than I expected. Not a bad thing though. You could shave the block to zero deck clearance, tighten the quench to 0.043", and still have an SCR of only 9.32:1 which will be low octane friendly.
Well maybe HE can mill the block a little more, I CAN'T as it's not really a kit anymore, it's a running engine, still not quite sorted though, my biggest issue with the engine(other than sounding like a diesel for a couple minutes) is that it idles fine out of gear, but in drive at a light it's kind of rough, not sure yet if I'm leaning out at idle(22ish lb injectors from a dodge Neon, I do have a set of 24lb Fords that I got for it forever ago), or if that's just the nature of the 68-231-4 cam, or possible I need to check the pushrod length vs lifter preload. Not withstanding the fact that this one isn't quite sorted yet I'm starting to acquire parts to build up the engine that came out when I put that stroker in a 96 ZJ
Your 22lb injectors are definitely too small so swap those Ford 24lb'ers in there. Is the distributor indexed correctly? It's a common issue with aftermarket cams.
I'm reasonably sure that it is, it was initally 1 tooth back, and while it would idle, it would start back fireing like crazy if I tried to bring the revs up much at all(1800ish). I put the 22's(which might actually be more at the 49psi of the late model fuel pump)in when I was trouble shooting that backfireing issue, and just haven't gotten back to the 24's(blue top ford racing units) yet. I'm still sorting this one of course, but I'm already planning the next. what are your thoughts on the 677's they are still available, albeit without the coating and with a slightly different part number 677AP vs the older 699P...
doc65 wrote:what are your thoughts on the 677's they are still available, albeit without the coating and with a slightly different part number 677AP vs the older 699P...
I believe that Summit Racing still have them under a different part no. but you'd need a set of 4.2 rods to go with those pistons. If I was in your shoes I'd leave the engine combo alone and just try to fix the driveability problems. Once you get those sorted your engine will kick ass.
I must really not be doing a good job of communicating recently I appologize... I AM going to finish dealing with the existing 4.6 Accurate Power stroker kit based engine, unless it died yesterday when the fan went out & it over heated... That engine is in a ZJ Grand Cherokee; I am ALSO working on collecting parts for ANOTHER stroker at this time. I have the heavy crank and the short rods that came with it, I have the block, heads etc that came out of the ZJ, I do ALSO have 2 sets of 4.0 long rods that I could use with the 944's if I wound up going that direction. This engine will eventually go into my 98 XJ which is an Ex-USFS unit & still runs pretty good, but the 4.0 is starting to get a little tired at almost 200k though it still runs well.
My question on the 677's was how big of a deal do you feel the coating is on the coated version, Yes summit as well as others do list the 677AP which seems to be the current version of the UN-coated piston? I can get the uncoated version for like $160 with rings, then have Oleshot dish them so that I can get the compression I want and get the quench down as well...
That engine is in a ZJ Grand Cherokee; I am ALSO working on collecting parts for ANOTHER stroker at this time. I have the heavy crank and the short rods that came with it, I have the block, heads etc that came out of the ZJ, I do ALSO have 2 sets of 4.0 long rods that I could use with the 944's if I wound up going that direction. This engine will eventually go into my 98 XJ which is an Ex-USFS unit & still runs pretty good, but the 4.0 is starting to get a little tired at almost 200k though it still runs well.