PSC1-003 Install Questions

[Winners97TJ]

For those that have installed the PSC1 or other MAP adjusters, where are you guys mounting this thing? Mine is going into a 97 TJ. And does anyone have a copy of the PCM pin-outs? I haven't gotten my paws on a FSM yet ( I know, I know! I need to! ) but that will be one of my next VERY RECENT purchases. Thanks everyone, in advance. All of you guys' (and gals') input, info, and help is always GREATLY appreciated!

Bobby

[gradon]

I mounted mine on the driver's side firewall where the white sticker is. My psc1-002 has a built in map so I put it where the vacuum hose could reach the port in the manifold. On my 96XJ(I checked and 97XJ is the same), I pulled 12V from an unused connector in the back corner of the passenger side by the washer rez(maybe for the underhood light on some models); ground from the firewall grounding point; tach wire goes to the cam position sensor output(out of the distributor): tan/yellow wire goes to a18 on the white connector at the pcm; original map output(maybe middle wire out of map): dark green/red wire goes to a27 on the white connector at the pcm, gets cut and goes into the psc1 input, then the psc1 output goes to the other side of the cut map output wire that feeds the input on the pcm. Then you have to get a serial-usb cable from the unit underhood to the inside and probably have to use a usb extension to plug into your laptop. The biggest pain is waiting for the writing process--the r1 software makes you write to both the A/B maps and the psc1 only uses the A map(the B map is for timing adjustment on the ftc1).

[SilverXJ]

I am going to mount mine under the driver side dash. I don't feel comfortable leaving it in the engine bay. Especially since I need to plug a cable into it.

[Winners97TJ]

Well, I decided to go ahead and mount mine in the engine bay. Actually, directly under the PCM on top of the battery hold-down bar. Made a nifty little bracket out of 1/8" aluminum flat plate. Easy access to the port, close to PCM so no added wiring, and it's pretty darn stable!
Now the next issue I have run into is that everytime I get my serial-to-USB cable hooked up, open Split Second's R4 program, load Customer, I try to connect to PCM. Select correct COM port (COM4 for me) and push the nifty little button, . R4 Shuts down.....
It took me almost 2 hours to get the damn computer to recognize the Serial-to-USB cable, and now THIS! Oh how I wish this stuff would run on a Mac! This entire tune has become a nightmare. (I had multiple issues with the LM-2 and the update of firmware not being compatible with Vista64 or whatever OS I'm running on this new laptop, getting the cable to recognize, and now THIS!) One question I do have is, are there any drivers for this PSC1? It didn't install any when the R4 program installed, that I could tell. If so, where the heck are they!? I wouldn't mind trying to reinstall them manually. Heck, half the time when I plug this thing in, Windows tries (and succeeds in) installing drivers for a Microsoft Serial BallPoint Mouse! Makes my cursor do all kinds of funky things... Then to get those drivers UNinstalled, I have to restart. After the 15th restart, it gets old...
Sorry for the rant. I fell better now! Now, back to it, I just can't seem to get this deal straight. I've done plenty of electrical work and mechanical work in my time, but this simple little "wire this and plug-n-play" is kickin my @$$!!! Thanks for the run down earlier guys, I greatly appreciate it. Any more helpful advise is welcome.... yet again!

Bobby

[SilverXJ]

You have a USB to com cable that R4/PSC doesn't like. No drivers for the PSC1. I have one here that does the same thing. I have another one at storage that I need to try. I know that I had a similar problem with my Wideband unit. The one that works for that is the one at storage. Nothing useful is ever made for a mac.

[Winners97TJ]

The one that works for that is the one at storage. Nothing useful is ever made for a mac.

Isn't that usually the way it works...
Or is it more appropriate to say "the way it doesn't!"?

I read up more on it last night (earler this morning is more like it) and I also need to double check to make sure I am plugging everything in the correct order. According to Splitsec.com, I need to plug in the USB cable to computer, make sure it is reading the serial-to-USB connection correctly, open R4 and load customer, turn on ignition to power PSC, plug in serial port cable end to PSC and try to connect to PCM.
According to the website, "Always plug in the serial connector just before connecting to ECU. Also unplug the cable immediately after clicking the Disconnect from ECU icon. This will avoid data communication issues while the R4 program is not connected."

[SilverXJ]

Once you get a connection you may also have trouble reading and or writing the tables. I did. Click on the reset button once connected.

[Winners97TJ]

SOLUTION TO PROBLEM #1;

I had an extra desktop computer sitting around the house with a 17" CRT monitor, running Windows XP (my 3 month old laptop is running Windows suck.. I mean, Windows 7) so I thought, HEY! Maybe it's the OS. I have heard several issues with Innonvate's LM-2 software being compatible with Vista, so I figured, what the heck. Modern Tuning at it's FINEST!



Windows XP was the solution. Everything loaded up first shot, everything connected first shot, everything works... (And here lies Problem #2! YEAY! ) except for the readings I'm getting and the P1297 (I think that's what it was) code now.
I used the same wiring as the previous post, I double- triple- and quadruple- checked wiring in comparison to the PSC1-003 manual (online and on CD-ROM). Still showing no movement on the MAP sensor readings on the LM-2. Kind of wierd. I reset the entire PSC1 to 10 on both maps, and I even hit the nifty little "Reset PCM" botton on the R4 software in the bottom right corner. Runs pretty smooth, a little miss, but once I hit around 3k RPM - fuel cut (becuase of the CEL).

Now one thing that seems quite odd in my mind is the wiring diagrams in the PSC1 manual, there are two different types of wiring. Direct output and modified output. Under direct output, the wiring colors listed vary from what is listed for the modified output AS WELL AS THE WIRING ON MY UNIT! WTF?! Here is what they look like.

Direct (1) Red, (2) Black, (3) Yellow/Green, (4) Yellow/Black, (5) Yellow.
Modified (1) Red, (2) Black, (3) Violet, (4) Yellow/Black, (5) Yellow, (6) Green.
My unit (1) Red, (2) Black, (3) Violet (4) Yellow/Black (5) Yellow, (6)Red/Black

Am I missing something here!?! If i leave the Red/Black floating and not connected, it will not connect to the R4 software. If I assume (which with electrical work is NEVER good!) that it is a manufacturing mix up of wiring color and treat it like the Green wire and hook it up with the Yellow, I am able to get it to power up and access it through R4.... I'm tired of walls.....
Any thoughts??

[gradon]

Red: 12v; black: ground; violet: psc1 output to pcm map input; yellow/black: tach input from cam position sensor output/pcm's cam sensor input;
Now in the older diagrams, you would cut the map output wire and connect the yellow wire and green wire(maybe your red w/black) together and run them off the map output wire. The pcm side of the cut map wire gets connected to the violet.

Edit: To get the r4 tach signal to read correctly, in the engine settings, set it to 1 cylinder 4-stroke.

[Winners97TJ]

Red: 12v; black: ground; violet: psc1 output to pcm map input; yellow/black: tach input from cam position sensor output/pcm's cam sensor input;
Now in the older diagrams, you would cut the map output wire and connect the yellow wire and green wire(maybe your red w/black) together and run them off the map output wire. The pcm side of the cut map wire gets connected to the violet.

Edit: To get the r4 tach signal to read correctly, in the engine settings, set it to 1 cylinder 4-stroke.

That is exactly how I had wired it up the first time around (at least I think I did).... I had the same thought. When I did that, it ran quite rough, wouldn't rev over about 3k RPM, and was making all kinds of stuff go haywire. Maybe the 1 cylinder 4-stroke thing will help out. Wasn't driveable that way, so I completely removed it this afternoon. I'll start over from scratch with it again tomorrow. Maybe I had something crossed that I didn't realize and it will just fall into place.... I am also going to give Split Second a call and ask about the "mis-colored wire." Hopefully they'll be able to shine some light on it for me. Thanks everyone for the input so far . Hopefully this will help others out and keep them from having the headaches that I have had with this "experience."

[Winners97TJ]

Well, come to find out, the PSC1-003's can be purchased for specific applications (I should have known). This one I don't think will work. The guy I spoke with at Split Second thinks it is probably a PSC1-003 that is for a Rhino ATV. The mystery Red/Black wire is a 5v positive to power on. Said that this unit is for a MAP sensor that is either on or off, not as variable as the Jeep's(?). Does that sound right? Not really sure if I could make it work or not. I may have to play with it and see what happens. (I bet I could power it up from the 12V wire with a resistor and tune it as a direct signal vs. modified signal) The guy said I need the PSC1-002. So I guess I'll be looking into those... or maybe looking into some of the other tuning options if this falls through. Any thoughts?

[gradon]

I think you can use it. Take the red/black wire and tap the map's 5v input signal/computer's 5v out for the sensors(its an on/off map depending on the ignition, right?). It was probably acting up because of the variable output voltage on the yellow wire instead of a steady 5v. The violet gets connected directly to the the map's output and the yellow is the PSC1's output that feeds the PCM's map input. If you leave all the cells to the value of 10, what comes in the psc1 is what comes out, so in theory should run the same without it in circuit. IIRC, max value was +25 and min -20, which adjusted the map voltage by +/-2.5v.

[Winners97TJ]

I think you can use it. Take the red/black wire and tap the map's 5v input signal/computer's 5v out for the sensors(its an on/off map depending on the ignition, right?). It was probably acting up because of the variable output voltage on the yellow wire instead of a steady 5v. The violet gets connected directly to the the map's output and the yellow is the PSC1's output that feeds the PCM's map input. If you leave all the cells to the value of 10, what comes in the psc1 is what comes out, so in theory should run the same without it in circuit. IIRC, max value was +25 and min -20, which adjusted the map voltage by +/-2.5v.

That is similar to what I was thinking after I submitted my last post...

Unfortunately, I won't get to really play around with it again until about Wed or Thurs but I'll post up any new findings. Thanks for your post!

[Winners97TJ]

Alright, I got to looking at this thing again today and here is where I sit....

For starters, I mis-labeled my wiring on my unit a couple posts back....
I posted it as
My unit (1) Red, (2) Black, (3) Violet (4) Yellow/Black (5) Yellow, (6)Red/Black
but it's actually
My unit (1) Red, (2) Black, (3) Violet (4) Yellow/Black (5) GREEN, (6)Red/Black

Sorry for that.

Anyway, I got to trying to reinstall this thing again here is my wiring;
Red - 12V switched power
Black - Ground
Yellow/Black - tapped into Tan/Yellow Tach signal
Green - Sensor side of MAP-to-PCM wire (Green/Red)
Violet - PCM side of MAP-to-PCM Wire (Green/Red)
Red/Black - 5V Sensor power

and what I have found out is that the pressure is stuck at 5.5 constantly. No change at all. Not even if I drop the values in R4. I think this has just become a nice paperweight for me. Luckly it was only $50! I tapped the 5v on the orange wire on the PCM (5v power source for the MAP) and it is reading on the R4 software, but again, no change in ride quality. VERY rough. And if I treat it like the yellow and wire it with the Green, I get nothing. Doesn't power-up and is unable to communicate with the PC. Any additional thoughts on it would be helpful. I have the day off tomorrow and would be able to play with it... Until then, I think I'll be looking into other tuning options besides the PSC1-003. Thanks again everyone.

[gradon]

Alright go back to connecting it to where you had it running until it cut out@3K. All values were 10 in the r4 software, right? Try increasing the 2500+ cells to values higher than 10, like 15 and see if it still cuts out or goes higher than before.