sudo chop's 4.6

[sudo chop]

I definitely plugged it in, but maybe its a bad connection, or a bad sensor...

I did switch injectors with no change. I also unbolted the dizzy and moved it around a bit and it actually seemed to rev up well a couple times but i was just holding it in place, when I bolted it back down in the place where I thought it was it went back to sputtering some more. I will be messing with it again tomorrow, and I'll pay some attention to the cam sensor. How sensitive is the indexing? When I was messing with it, I had it turned maybe an 1/8 or 1/16 of an inch from where it has been all this time and that is where it seemed to rev up better. Perhaps I only jiggled the cam sensor enough to make it work.

[92tank]

try moveing the dizzy one tooth in both directions you could be one tooth off. when i was trying to fix my miss i moved mine and it would idle fine but not rev up past 2gs. just somthing to try. the only thing your out is the five mins it take to play

[sudo chop]

The thing that gets me is that I followed Dino's instructions for indexing and got it perfect. I made a mark where the no. 1 terminal is and made the rotor line right up with that, so if that is the exact spot then why do I need to move it? Well obviously it isn't the exact right spot, so then where is?

I guess the reason that I am concerned about this is - let's say tomorrow I go out there and spin the dizzy a bit and it fixes the problem of it not reving up, well how am I supposed to know if that is right where its supposed to be or if it just works there but optimally it needs to be somewhere else?

[4.whoa]

The last 2 cam gears i've got only had a hole in one side. I just drilled through (while it was on the dist shaft to keep it in line) to set the pin in all the way. I noticed that the dist shaft hole was off center and depending on which way i installed it the hole didn't line up on both sides AND the teeth were slightly off. Now this was only like 1/2 a tooth, but that will change where the rotor sits a little bit.

[sudo chop]

Well I fixed it. I turned the dizzy a bit and it works, I have no idea where it is sitting now in relation to where it was indexed before, but whatever, maybe I'll look later. I did look today at where I marked my old distributor when I was disassembling (I apparently forgot I marked it) and the mark I made for where the rotor was at TDC is a good half an inch away from the mark I made on the one I am running. I will probably re-do the whole thing at some point soon, trying to get it where the mark on my old dizzy was, but for now, it seems to be good.

I also broke the cam in right after I got the timing right. Boy did that take forever, I did it in 3 10 min intervals, sitting there for 10 minutes was hard enough, I can't imagine doing 30 straight. Watching the gauges I noticed that my water temps are hanging out about a needle's width above the 210 mark (hood open or closed no difference, about 50* ambient) and having never operated this jeep in normal conditions I am curious to know how this compares to stock. Also,once everything good really good and hot during the break in my oil press. was right at about 40 at 2k, how normal is that? I've noticed that when its still cold at idle its at about 50.

Now I am trying to figure out the exhaust... I had them put that 3" collector on there and now I am kind of regretting it, but I have to live with it so, I guess I will have them run the 3" flange on the header tapered down to a 2.5" pipe, I don't think that will hurt too much. It might look kind of silly but nobody is going to see it. I still am not sure what muffler to use either, I care much more about not droning on the highway than I do about how badass it sounds... Also have to find a good cheap 2.5" tailpipe...

[sudo chop]

Well today was a good day. I re-indexed the distributor and did it correctly this time. idk if it is just the OBDII distributors or what, but both of mine had holes in the plastic wheel under the rotor and cam pos sensor. When I was disassembling, I noticed (,marked, and then forgot) that one of the holes lined up perfectly with a hole in the distributor body. It now idles better and starts much better.

I was having a phantom electrical problem that turned out to just be that I forgot to tighten the nuts for the grounds under the coil...

I ordered the 2.5" pipe from rusty's and a super 44 today also. I am going to leave the rest of it up to the exhaust shop. The guy was really concerned about not using an OE cat and getting a CEL bc of it, I'm not sure of that's founded or not, I know that people use high flow and after market cats all the time and I don't think they all have CELs. Anyway, I think I am going to let him charge me for a cat that he says he will guarantee not to give me a CEL. Hopefully I can get out of the exhaust shop without spending too much...

[amcinstaller]

as long as its working right it should be fine, high flow or not

[4.whoa]

last cat i got at a shop cost me$300! pretty much a cat's a cat. Some have the air tube,and some have sensors in/on their inlet/outlet but they do the same thing.Only difference might be the newer pre-cat style. as long as it's the right size , you should be A OK

[sudo chop]

Well, I finally got the exhaust done. It sounds great, and looks great too, I couldn't be happier. The guy custom made piece-by-piece a mandrel bent 2.5" head pipe with an extra O2 bung and a mile of driveshaft clearance, as well as stitching up the rest of my exhaust, for $300. Pretty nice.

I reset the computer and drove it home, and it seemed like it was having some trouble at first since I erased it's memory, but by the time I got home it was good to go. I do, however, think I hear a bit of light pinging when I get on it. So, since the tank was about empty I put some 93 in it and I am going to go to AZ today to buy another heat range colder plug. Once I get rid of the pinging, I'll be putting the wideband on it to see how it's doing with these big injectors.

I'm so excited too, cuz I found an overhead console for it at the JY!

I am trying to catch up on a lot of school work right now from missing two weeks for reserve duty. So as much as I want to do nothing else but play with this stroker that is finally running, it's gonna have to wait.

[sudo chop]

For some reason I put a whole tank of 87 in. I think probably because I convinced myself that what I was hearing wasn't detonation. Well after driving around on 87 for a little while it became obvious that it was pinging because there was now a lot of it. I put some of the NOS octane booster in the 87 and it went away for a little while. I don't think it mixed well, I think I used up most of the octane booster in about the first 1/8th of a tank, because it's slowly coming back. I bought yet another heat range colder plug and when I went to put them in my old ones were bright orange from the octane booster! So I decided to wait to put this new set in until all that octane booster is out of it and I can go get some good quality premium and hopefully be done with this issue. It only really does it when it's in OD and going up an incline, usually I can keep it from pinging by shifting into 3 for the hill.

[sudo chop]

I got rid of the pinging. I tried some Water Wetter and it just went away. So, next time I fill up I'll try a little bit of 89. My plugs are really cold too, I put colder plugs in right before I put water wetter in and they didn't help much. So now I have NGK heat range 8 plugs in there, which I will pull and check for carbon fouling in a few hundred miles.

It's nice to drive around and not hear any pinging though!

[sudo chop]

I put a bit of 89 in and the pinging came back... So it looks like the stroker runs on 93 octane only. Not a big deal though I guess, it seems that for 20 gallons of gas, premium fuel only costs 4 bucks more. And since currently that is the difference between like 70 dollars and 74 dollars, I can live with it.

On another note, my highway fuel economy is phenomenal! Around town blows, but when that torque converter locks up in OD, and I'm cruising at like 60mph, I get about 27mpg. Around town is more like 16-17, not so good.

Does anyone know what temperature the e fan comes on? I went to all electric fans, just wired into the original e fan circuit, but I don't feel like they ever come on. The only time I remember then coming on was during cam break in when things were really hot. I think I'm gonna have to wire up a switch for sitting in traffic... I'm also considering a 180* thermostat. Any thoughts on that?

[92tank]

iirc the e fans turn on at 210-220. i have mine hooked up to two different switches and for road driving i only need one on. the only time i need both is when trail running or at slow speeds

[sudo chop]

Thought I would drop by and update my thread. Hope everyone is doing well!

Pretty much everything turned out perfect, and it runs great. I've put about 7200 miles on it so far, and changed the oil twice since cam break in, and last time I put syntec in there. The only issues I seem to be having are the high heat and also what I think is a lack of fuel during startup.

My original triple 10" fan setup, that I don't think I ever discussed here, went to shit really quickly. They were just crap fans and when two failed I just took it all out and put the original e-fan back in - solo. I'm currently looking for a second e-fan to put in there next to it and wire them both up to run all the time, it definitely needs it.

The starts I'm not really sure about, but say I park it at 5pm and go out the next day at 10am it turns over for quite a while before starting, BUT, when I turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to run a bit, then switch it off and do it 2 more times, it starts right up. All I can figure is that its having a hard time getting fuel pressure up initially, or that when sitting the fuel actually drains back down the line... It's not much of a problem, just a bit embarrassing - I was taking my sister in law somewhere the other day and had to do the key thing, and immediately after she asked me if I ever worry about "this thing blowing up" and I then found it hard to explain just how NOT worried I was about it blowing up, bc it is rock solid.

Then, of course, there is the pinging - hopefully it goes away when I get two e fans in there running all the time, I mean really, right now the fan usually isnt even on. I wouldn't expect that removing the primary source of moving air through the radiator (mech fan) and adding a whole bunch of heat from the high compression would ever result in anything other than the engine not being able to keep cool. Part of me hopes that there will barely be a hint of detonation left after the twin fans, so I can have an excuse to go ahead with a cowl snorkel, for the lower intake temps of course

[Busey]

mine starts the same way. I am told there is a check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank that goes bad causing fuel line pressure to drop while sitting. It is part of the fuel pump and the whole fuel pump has to be replaced to fix it. I have read that some guys put an external valve in the fuel line outside the tank.