New 5 cylinder Cherokee

[mountaineerjeff]

So I just became the owner of a straight 5 jeep. I blew a rod and piston out of the side of the block and oil pan in my 97 auto cherokee with only 130k

So thats what brings me to you guys for advice. I obviously need a complete new engine. but IM thinking I might be able to get the advantages of a stroker build without spending too much 'extra' money over the cost of another 4.0 now I know you guys have to get these questions 10 times a week but im a newb so sorry for

so all my accessories are still good, and the head may still be good as well. What about doing a 4.2 short block? that would give me the raised displacement with low cost and difficulty. Is this going to be worse off then my 4.0 short block? I know the 4.0 had improvements in block strength and is a square motor.

so what about gathering parts to do a mild stroker if there is such a thing. the use of the most stock parts and cheap as possible will be good.

another option is just grabbing a 4.0 short block and install some higher compression pistons. this would give me better performance across the board while keeping my higher redline. Not that important but good in the mud.

but my current direction seems to be the cheapest, easiest and most boring is just throwing in another 4.0 long block.


No matter which route I go I want to use the factory ignition/fuel/ computer and not mess with the wiring.

[mountaineerjeff]

oh just to give you guys some more info. I have a pretty strong understanding on strokers, how they work and everything like that. what is confusing me very much is the SAE measurements I have gotten very used to auto measurements being metric. I have built a few imported cars, and this is the first american car that ive owned, that im modifying or doing any 'real' work to. like when It comes down to calculating for pin heights, headgaskets, and CRs i get lost really easily. hence the problem with using 'search'

thanks in advance

[sudo chop]

I'm not sure, but rather just speculating, that you will have some trouble using a 258 block and getting all of your peripherals to work with it. I'm quite sure most of the bosses are different.

I think you could find both a 258 and a 4.0 at a u pull it and be in pretty good shape to build a stroker on just about the same budget as rebuilding an engine.

[mountaineerjeff]

well ive been doin a LOT of reading across this site today (pretty much all ive done) and I came across someone saying there are problems installing older blocks into the newer jeeps? I thought that all the 4.0s were the same and externally the same as the 4.2s? i know we switched from renix in 90,91 and to obd2 in 96 and the body in 97 and the changes in 2000. I also know about the block being reinforced but is that the same time that it would have changed externally? right now i think I may just buy a complete used motor, whether it be a stroker or a 4.0

[Cheromaniac]

so what about gathering parts to do a mild stroker if there is such a thing. the use of the most stock parts and cheap as possible will be good.

Looks like a copy of the "poor man's" stroker that I have in my XJ is tailor-made for you. Here's the recipe:

4.6L "poor man's" stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
Sealed Power 677CP +0.020" bore pistons
9.25:1 CR
Stock 4.0 HO camshaft/valve springs/retainers
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.088" quench height
Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines

[mountaineerjeff]

well the stroker idea is very tempting. but after the last storker FS on the 'classifieds' sold, then I kinda started leaning toward just a junkyard 4.0. Im afraid if I start a stroker build either, 1 the un foreseen costs will add up too quickly and ill be stuck, or 2 ill get a motor that isnt as reliable, and ill have some sort of problem within the first 5000 miles.

[Cheromaniac]

Im afraid if I start a stroker build either, 1 the un foreseen costs will add up too quickly and ill be stuck, or 2 ill get a motor that isnt as reliable, and ill have some sort of problem within the first 5000 miles.

1. That can happen with any engine rebuild.
2. A stroker won't be any less reliable than a 4.0 as long as you have good quality machine shop work, use good quality parts that are properly matched, and avoid mistakes during engine assembly and break-in.
3. Shit happens, stroker or not, but it's less likely to happen if you follow the principles in 2.

[mountaineerjeff]

I started a WTB, to try and get this back on the road