break in procedures

[CoreyK]

I have a 4.6 stroker i built its going into a 95 cherokee. Have a few questions. What is everyone running for oil for the break in? What is the best break in procedure you guys have found? Thanks

[92tank]

this is how my jeep book says to do the first start and break in


WARNING:have a fire extinguisher handy when starting the engine for the first time

1. once the has been installed in the vehicle, double check the oil and coolant levels.
2. with the spark plugs out, and ignition disabled, crank until oil pressure registers on gauge
3. install the spark plugs, wires, and connect the ignition
4. start the engine. may take a few moments for fuel system to build pressure, but should start without a great deal of effort. NOTE: if back firing occurs check timing
5. after the engine starts it should be allowed to warm up to normal operating temp, while warm check for leaks
6. shut engine off and check oil and coolant levels
7. drive the vehicle to an area with minimum traffic, acclerate at full throttle from 30 to 50 mph, then allow the vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle closed. repeat 10 to 12 times. this will load the piston rings and cause them to seat properly against the cylinder walls. check oil and coolant
8. drive the vehicle gently for the first 500 miles (no sustianed high speeds) and keep an eye on the oil level.
9. at about 500 to 600 miles change the oil and filter
10. for the next few hundred miles, drive the vehicle normally. dont pamper it or abuse it
11. after 2000 miles change the oil and filter again and consider the engine broken in.



ps. thats what i did and havent had any problems except the missing issue. (not due to anything internally, compression checks out great)

[Bodo]

I used Joe Gibbs BR break in oil. With today's modern oil, you're going to need a high zinc (ZDDP) oil to protect your camshaft.

Follow the break-in procedure that your cam manufacturer recommends. I primed the oil system by using a drill to rotate the oil pump through the distributer hole. After spending a couple hours getting the distributer indexed properly, It started up. RPM's were kept from 1500-2500 to allow oil to splash up onto the camshaft during its break-in for 20 minutes. I changed the oil/filter with more BR and a WIX/Napa Gold. I drove it for ~100 miles on short trips to work and back. Kept RPM varied. Made a few good pulls after it had warmed up each way. I wasn't easy on it, but I didn't dog it either. Changed the oil again to Valvoline NSL 10W-30 with ZDDP additive and just been driving it normally.

[SilverXJ]

This is my break in procedure:
Assembly:
-Use moly assembly lube on the lifter foot, cam lobes and cam journals. Use a good assembly lube on the rest (main and rod bearings, pushrods, valve stem, etc)
-Be careful not to nick the cam bearings when installing the camshaft.
-When setting preload I start with #1 and continue on the firing sequence. After each rocker I set I remove the rocker and set it aside, either keeping them in order or numbering them. This is using adjustable rockers, just check if you have non-adjustable. I keep the push rods in the block. This way a minimum of lube is wiped off the cam. After that is finished I turn the engine over and put some more lube on the cam lobes to replace what may have been wiped off.
-After that I put the timing cover and oil pan on.
-While still on the stand I then fill the engine with oil and prime the engine with a drill, rotating the crank 1-2 revolutions. Make sue oil reached the pushrods then prime for 5 more minutes.
-Its best to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to make sure you have good pressure while priming.
-I then install the valve cover.
-Rotate the engine a little as possible after this point.
-However, you will need to rotate the engine when bolting up the flex plate to the converter and when installing the distributor or cam sensor.
-After installing the engine in the vehicle then engine will have to be rotated to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. After that I find TDC on #1 and leave it there.

Cam breakin:
-I usually fill the cooling system the night prior and lift the front of the vehicle a bit to allow air to escape over night.
-Once I am sure I can put all the coolant in I can I close the radiator.
-At this point you should have everything ready, all sensors plugged in and everything hooked up besides the distributor. You should also be on TDC of the compression stroke on #1.
-I then bleed the fuel rail of air by flipping the key from run to off a few times and releasing air from the fuel rail through the pressure check valve.
-I check the oil level one last time
1) I then prime the engine for 5 more minutes before I drop the distributor or cam sensor in. Work quickly after this point.
2) I install the distributor
3) I remove the fan relay and install a jumper so that it will run constantly. This blows air over the header keeping it significantly cooler.
4) One last check
5) Make sure you have everything you need for 15-30 minutes. Water, phone, cigs(if you smoke), fire extinguisher, etc.
6) Jump in the vehicle and start it. If it doesn't start near immediately find the problem! Do not sit there cranking it with out start!
7) Do not let the engine idle and after it fires bring the RPM up to 3000 for about 5 seconds
8) Oscillate the RPM between 2000 and 2500 for 25-30 minutes. The time varies with cam manufactures so follow their guide lines. Watch the gauges, particularly oil pressure and engine temp. It may get a bit over 210, which will be ok.
9) After 25-30 minutes shut it down
10) Some people drain the oil after this and replace the filter. I usually just replace the filter and top up the oil.

Ring break in varies, but usually you need to do about 10 high RPM runs to seat the rings. Check with your ring manufacturer about this.

After that drive it moderately aggressive for the first 1000 miles, with an oil and filter change at 500 miles. Don't keep the RPMs low, don't baby it. Do not lug the engine. Vary RPMs, Don't let it idle long. I like to drop it in neutral at a light and rev it every few seconds to about 2000 RPM.

Note. 92tank's method does not cover the cam break procedure!

[SilverXJ]

\ Changed the oil again to Valvoline NSL 10W-30 with ZDDP additive and just been driving it normally.

What is NSL?

[Bodo]

Not Street Legal. http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... otor-oil/9

[SilverXJ]

Ah.. their "Racing OIl" not the VR1. Where do you get it in 10W-30? I can't find any place locally or online in the non synthetic version.

[Bodo]

Wow, I didn't realize that the link pointed to the synthetic. Sorry about that. Didn't even know there was such a critter.

Part number is VV850. We have several cases of it at work (NAPA/Machine Shop) Jeg's has it but at $14/bottle. I think we sell it for $7/bottle?

[SilverXJ]

Wow, I didn't realize that the link pointed to the synthetic.

I didn't actually study your link in specific, but I know from past that Valvoline's website doesn't give details on their racing oil.. much less the Dino version of it.