cheap rebuild options??

[SilverXJ]

280/288 seat is a lot of duration. IIRC for cheap, Isky's cam was $90. But they have shitty service.

[4.whoa]

I'm running a 68-231-4 now and the .050 duration is about the same, so I thought the longer seat duration would make it quieter. Could it effect the drivability much?
I know the lift is less, but otherwise?

[Muad'Dib]

Dropped the pan today, and pulled a couple rod bearing caps. Check out the bearings;

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/ ... 20Install/

[Bodo]

These are the original ones?

[Muad'Dib]

No, those were the bearings i installed (NEW) when i did the rebuild... i only re-used the main bearings.

[Muad'Dib]

Also, is it common to have assembly lube collect at the rear of the oil pan near the drain hole. I do have two very good magnets there near the drain hole also..

There is a nice gob / pile of assembly lube there.

[SilverXJ]

The moly lube from the cam and lifters tends to gather at the bottom of the pan.

[Muad'Dib]

The moly lube from the cam and lifters tends to gather at the bottom of the pan.

Ok, that must be what its going on with that.... what about those two bearings? Look at the edges there is a line of pitting or something ... what would do that? And could that be why i am losing oil pressure?

[SilverXJ]

Looks like that bearing on the right is riding on the crank shaft fillet. Could be not enough bearing clearance as well causing the pitting. What was the bearing clearance again? It also looks like there is significant wear at the parting lines. Did you keep the rod caps on the rods they came off of? They are numbered.

[IH 392]

They look like they have debris embedded in them to me?, the soft bearings are designed to do that to save the crank, the one on the right does indeed look to have worn the edge off!??, the edges of the shells at the parting line have a chamfer on them so the edge wont act like a scraper and scrape the oil off of the journal, they are showing no wear at all as should be.

[Muad'Dib]

Im pretty sure the rod caps came off of where they were when i dissambled .. i tried not to mix them up... however i cant find any numbers on them to double check... Rod bearings were all .002 - .0025


At this point, what would you guys do?

[SilverXJ]

There should be some stamped numbers on the flat spots parallel to the rod bolts.

[Muad'Dib]

There should be some stamped numbers on the flat spots parallel to the rod bolts.

There isnt...


Anyway here is my plan of action ...


Replace oil pump, screen and install .001 undersize bearings on the cap ends (since originally there were 1/2 STD, and 1/2 .001 and i goofed and installed all STD which kills me cause it plastigauged all correctly! and although im a capital noob and this is my first real rebuild, i find it hard to believe i fucked up plastigauging it!). Then clean up the gunk of assembly lube in the pan, and bolt it all back up. If i still have the noise and low oil pressure, this is getting yanked and waiting till taxes so i can build the stroker. Sound good, or should i also replace the other 1/2 rod bearing (towards the piston) as well?

[SilverXJ]

I would check for wear on the 1/2 of the bearing in the rod. If they look good, just throw in the .001 bearings and see what happens.

When plastigauging the crank, bearings, caps, etc should be dry and free of oil. Oil can screw up your measurements giving you less clearance than there actually is. Especially assembly lube. All parts should also be the same temp.

[4.whoa]

Was one of those caps from the nicked journal? If you didn't get rid of the whole thing that might be part of it. I was just looking at oil pumps,and the hv with p/u is cheaper than a stock one without! If the clearances are only slightly bigger ( i think you said only .001?),the hv would take care of it. Have you taken the old pump apart yet?