Timing cover issues

[woodjeep]

Thanks to your prev help, I have found out where all the different bolts go in the timing cover...Now I did a dry run today and it appears I need some sort of alignment tool.. If I just mount up the bolts, there is enough wiggle room to the point that the balancer shaft might will not be centered in the oil seal. Jeep makes a tool but in the manual the tool is used to put on the cover BEFORE the oil seal is pressed in..my oil seal is already installed..Will this tool still work?. I was going to use the balancer as my alignment tool but it appears to be a mallet tap fit and will not be able to remove it to torque the bolts without a puller..is this normal..any suggestions would be appreciated..thanks

[4.whoa]

I've always just made sure the bottom of the cover is totally even /level with the bottom of the block and I haven't had any problems.

[SilverXJ]

The FSM says you need an alignment tool. I don't know how necessary it is, but I always do it. I sue to have a harmonic balancer that was opened up a bit so it would just slide on to the crank... but I can't find it. So I partially install the harmonic balancer, install and torque down most of the cover bolts, remove the balancer, finish the remaining bolts then fully install the balancer.

[woodjeep]

I thought the proceedure of ensuring the cover even with the block was a good idea so I made some bolt-on stops and did a trial run. It mostly works except I still have about 1/16 inch lateral (side to side)play even with all the bolts in but not tight. It might not matter but I will try to lightly sand the inside of my old balancer so it is a less press fit and use that with the block stops. I will then cut down the balancer shaft to make my spacer for the new balancer

[woodjeep]

Well I did the timing cover today.....No troubles. I combined the 2 methods suggested above. I used 2 short flat metal bars bolted to the bottom of the block as positive stops to keep the cover from moving past even with the bottom of the block and i installed the old harmonic balancer on the shaft to make sure it was centered on the seal. There was only 1 bolt I couldn't tighten with the balancer on so I tightened all the rest..removed the balancer with my puller and then got the last bolt. I couldn't figure out why the cover would not sit flush without some pressure ..where in my trial runs it always went on even...I thought it was my chain tensioner which had not been prev installed but that was not it. I forgot about the cam spring pin which had not been installed during my trial runs...that was pushing the cover..so it all went well. Tomorrow I will install the oil pump(HV)...Lube the cam lobes, seems easier to do from the bottom, then instal the pan. Whats the consensus...sealant on the pan gasket or not. I have the nice thick blue rubber FelPro style...Its slowly coming together....

[4.whoa]

Just use a little rtv on the block side @ the timing cover seams and where the bends up(or down) from the block around the mains are and the groove in the rear cap where the gasket sets. Usually that's all you need. . . But results may varry

[amcinstaller]

when i did my rms in my 92 kee, i used the same gasket (WAAAAYYYYYY better than cork, i wont go back) i didnt use any sealant. but also worth noting, i had to do it again after i pinched it in the back around the rear main. but since youre not installing this gasket laying on your back under your jeep, im not sure you need it. mine was clean as a whistle after the gasket and rms, even though i didnt use sealant.

[lafrad]

The factory usually puts some RTV at all "seams" in the metal when using rubber gaskets. so, just a little dab on the block side whereever it goes from one piece of metal, to another.

Thats what I did... and I have dusty, dry oil pan. no engine oil leaks here!