cheap rebuild options??
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
For anyone who cares, i found what the correct size is. I took the sensor into my local hardware store and tried it in different pipe fittings and found the size. It is 3/8-18 NPT.
I drilled and tapped it no problem, and got everything bolted back to the block. However i did notice that the exhaust manifold i put on there a year or so ago is already cracked. I don't have the money or really the time to wait for a new one to arrive so i guess ill have to replace it some other time. The engine is now ready to be dropped in the engine bay..
Two quick things...
Now with the flexplate, the bolt holes are indexed in such a way that it can only be installed in one position right?
Second, any tips for getting the damn E12 bolts started?? Its not like you can really reach up there or anything.
I drilled and tapped it no problem, and got everything bolted back to the block. However i did notice that the exhaust manifold i put on there a year or so ago is already cracked. I don't have the money or really the time to wait for a new one to arrive so i guess ill have to replace it some other time. The engine is now ready to be dropped in the engine bay..
Two quick things...
Now with the flexplate, the bolt holes are indexed in such a way that it can only be installed in one position right?
Second, any tips for getting the damn E12 bolts started?? Its not like you can really reach up there or anything.
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- IH 392
- I love JeepStrokers.com!!
- Posts: 725
- Joined: October 4th, 2008, 11:15 am
- Location: Eugene ORYGUN
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
The flexplate will only bolt to the crank in one position.
With the bellhousing up against the block the bolts will go right in, getting the socket in there will be the fun part, just reverse how you took them out, make sure your converter is stuffed all the way into the tranny so you don't bust the pump!
With the bellhousing up against the block the bolts will go right in, getting the socket in there will be the fun part, just reverse how you took them out, make sure your converter is stuffed all the way into the tranny so you don't bust the pump!
You can get more power out of ANY engine!!!
ASE Master certified engine machinist, gas and diesel
ASE Master certified engine machinist, gas and diesel
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Oh another question i forgot...
Looking inside the end of the crank it has some needle bearings that looks like the TC rides inside there... Should that be stuffed with grease or anything??
Looking inside the end of the crank it has some needle bearings that looks like the TC rides inside there... Should that be stuffed with grease or anything??
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- 4.whoa
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 329
- Joined: March 2nd, 2010, 5:50 am
- Vehicle Make: jeep
- Vehicle Model: xj&mj
- Location: Grandville,Mi
Re: cheap rebuild options??
No. That is a pilot bearing for a stick. Compare it to your old crank. Does your tq converter have the support rod thing sticking into the crank? I put my 5spd motor in my aw4 xj and it had that on the converter. I had to not only pull the bearing, but the spacer its in as well. It wouldn't pull so I had to brake it out. What a pita!
-Russ
4wd is fun, but 2wd is a BLAST
4wd is fun, but 2wd is a BLAST
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
So this engine i bought was attached to a manual? So i am guessing that i need to also pull the bearings out of there???
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- 4.whoa
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 329
- Joined: March 2nd, 2010, 5:50 am
- Vehicle Make: jeep
- Vehicle Model: xj&mj
- Location: Grandville,Mi
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Yep. Compare it to the end of the crank you took out. I'll try to get some pics of the spacer I had to chisel out tomorrow. My converter had what looked like a washer attached to the center support so when I tried to connect the tranny, they wouldn't seat w/each other. 

-Russ
4wd is fun, but 2wd is a BLAST
4wd is fun, but 2wd is a BLAST
- SilverXJ
- Global Moderator
- Posts: 5790
- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 2000
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Radford, Va
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Mine does.Muad'Dib wrote: Now with the flexplate, the bolt holes are indexed in such a way that it can only be installed in one position right?
Go back tot the hardware store. Bring E12s with you. Replace with some real Grade 8 Bolts and lock washers. Throw the E12s away.Second, any tips for getting the damn E12 bolts started?? Its not like you can really reach up there or anything.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
-
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 357
- Joined: February 25th, 2009, 10:40 am
Re: cheap rebuild options??
you want to make sure the torque converter center guide pin fits SNUGLY into the crankshaft. if the old crank had any spacers in it or anything, remove it from there and install it in the new crank.
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Thanks everyone for all your help ... its been needed!
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- 4.whoa
- Movin on up ^
- Posts: 329
- Joined: March 2nd, 2010, 5:50 am
- Vehicle Make: jeep
- Vehicle Model: xj&mj
- Location: Grandville,Mi
Re: cheap rebuild options??
here's a pic of the pilot bearing and spacer that i had to remove and the old crank w/o pilot spacer
I had to drill and chisel the spacer out,puller couldn't get a bite on itYou do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Russ
4wd is fun, but 2wd is a BLAST
4wd is fun, but 2wd is a BLAST
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Thanks for that...
I just put my gloved finger into the bearing and it slid right out of the crank easily. It didnt have a spacer behind it or anything. I cleaned up the hole, and then installed everything.
I got the engine in the engine bay resting on the lower bolts, and the motor mounts. Today after work i should get it bolted up most of the way... The stress of it all is really sinking in.. only because of that knick.. and not replacing the main bearings or the cam and cam bearings... plus this is my first real rebuild, and my first engine swap.. soooooo yeah...
I just put my gloved finger into the bearing and it slid right out of the crank easily. It didnt have a spacer behind it or anything. I cleaned up the hole, and then installed everything.
I got the engine in the engine bay resting on the lower bolts, and the motor mounts. Today after work i should get it bolted up most of the way... The stress of it all is really sinking in.. only because of that knick.. and not replacing the main bearings or the cam and cam bearings... plus this is my first real rebuild, and my first engine swap.. soooooo yeah...
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Again with the Questions 
I primed the engine with a drill and made sure oil was coming out of every pushrod. That was a few days ago. If im lucky, i will have a chance to start it up tonight and do the break in. Should i prime it again? Can i do it with the starter instead of a Drill? Ive already got the Distributor Indexed, and id rather not do that again....
Thanks!

I primed the engine with a drill and made sure oil was coming out of every pushrod. That was a few days ago. If im lucky, i will have a chance to start it up tonight and do the break in. Should i prime it again? Can i do it with the starter instead of a Drill? Ive already got the Distributor Indexed, and id rather not do that again....
Thanks!
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
-
- Donator
- Posts: 319
- Joined: February 13th, 2008, 7:31 pm
- Stroker Displacement: 4.5 needs assembly
- Location: Fredercksburg VA (land of nothing)
Re: cheap rebuild options??
If you prime it with the starter you'll wipe all the break in lube off the cam lobes when they need it most.
TurboTom wrote:i will eat my words later if need be.
Proud owner of many stroker parts, that have not yet spontaneously assembled themselves.TurboTom wrote: Not sure of your rules...but you need to start with an engine that works best for the rules and cheat from there!
- Muad'Dib
- Site Admin / Owner
- Posts: 1505
- Joined: January 8th, 2008, 10:55 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.7L
- Vehicle Year: 1990
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Oregon
- Contact:
Re: cheap rebuild options??
Sooo...
I was able to find in the FSM that the bolts that attach the Flexplate to the Crankshaft get torqued to 105ft pounds. However, i couldnt find anything in the FSM for the Torque Converter to Flexplate bolts. In my haynes it says to refer to the chapter for the 4 banger for this information, and in there it says that they only get torqued to 40ft pounds and then get turned another 60 degrees past that. Does this information sound correct?
Thanks!
I was able to find in the FSM that the bolts that attach the Flexplate to the Crankshaft get torqued to 105ft pounds. However, i couldnt find anything in the FSM for the Torque Converter to Flexplate bolts. In my haynes it says to refer to the chapter for the 4 banger for this information, and in there it says that they only get torqued to 40ft pounds and then get turned another 60 degrees past that. Does this information sound correct?
Thanks!
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- SilverXJ
- Global Moderator
- Posts: 5790
- Joined: February 14th, 2008, 7:14 am
- Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
- Vehicle Year: 2000
- Vehicle Make: Jeep
- Vehicle Model: Cherokee
- Location: Radford, Va
Re: cheap rebuild options??
TC to flex plate is 28 ft lbs. I remember seeing that degree torque method for one of those bolts once, but I haven't seen it again. Also, one other item I finding missing form my FSM is the main girdle, which is 35 ft lbs.
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests