cheap rebuild options??

[Muad'Dib]

Got the rest of the Engine torn apart except for the cam. I dont know if i want to pull it out or not.. i dont want to run the risk of damaging bearings.

Check out the pics. The crank appears to be in good shape (to my noob eyes anyway... i dont really know what im looking for besides obvious stuff). Main bearings dont look bad to me, but im concearned about the rod bearings.. What do you guys think?? Please take a look at the pics below:

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/ ... ngs%20Etc/

[SilverXJ]

I don't see why a stone type hone wouldn't work. However you may want to ask a machine shop how much they would charge just to clean it up.

Besides the rust everything looks good.. except.... take a look at the cam gear. I only noticed it in one pic, but the wear looked pretty bad. The oil pump also looks new for some reason.

[lafrad]

a stone hone takes a lot of time and patience... I would call around to a few machine shops and see if you can 'borrow" a flex hone (ball hone) for a weekend. (you'd be amazed what a case of beer can get you from a machine shop)

Other than that... You could just re-ring on the smoothest surface you can create with scotch brite (remember, make the scuff marks go AROUND the cyl, not up and down)... the Iron rings should be harder than the cyl wals *and rust* and do the final smooth 'seat'/hone on their own. Just change your oil filter OFTEN during the break in process.

[Muad'Dib]

I was able to get the right size ball hone at NAPA, along with rings and rod bearings. Bearings and rings are relatively cheap.. but that damn Ball Hone is $$$ I paid like 90 bucks for it.

Anyway, here are the shots of the cam and gear:

http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n57/CTschantz1/Cam/

Gear seems ok to me, but im curious about the overall cam lobe wear. Your thoughst??

[SilverXJ]

The gear isn't as bad as i thought it was from the original photo. As far as the war on the lobes, I am not sure. They look ok, but hopefully someone else will chime in.

How the heck did you get the lifters to stay in with the engine upside down?

[Muad'Dib]

They are usually pretty tough to get out on a worn in engine.. they stick in there pretty good.. or at least on all the I6's ive worked on. Il be removing them and the cam before i hone and clean. I did purchase new lifters...

Anyone else have anything to say about the cam?

Thanks everyone for your help.

[Bodo]

Cam wear looks normal to me!

[IH 392]

The cam looks like it might have a few more miles in it, the lobes are worn but not worn out, the gear?, it's still hard to tell from the photos, but it will likely run some more, make sure you keep the lifters in order!

[Muad'Dib]

I purchased new lifters, so i dont need to worry about the lifter order.



I am a ruiner of all things good. Started assembly, and plastigauged all main. Exactly to spec. Started on Rods. All within spec so far (only made it to #3) However, on piston / Rod #3 install, i got in a hurry and forgot to wrap the rod studs with hose. Needless to say my dumb ass nicked the damn rod journal. Jesus! So now there is a nice little nick in the journal that my finger catches on pretty easily.

Should i just leave it? I HAVE HAVE HAVE to get this done before i start my new job on monday... Should i start over with another crank? Or just let it eat the new #3 rod bearings and deal with it in a couple years? I dont need this engine to go 200,000+ however it will probably be another year or two maybe three before i can build my stroker.

What say you???

[4.whoa]

You could try to cut the nick off with a razor blade or blade from a sheetrock knife. Just as long as its a brand new one. Go slow and have a good grip so you only cut the nick on the other hand , if your other crank is good .....

[Muad'Dib]

I've been doing some reading and it seems like the general consensus is that as long as its a dimple and not protruding its not that huge of a deal. If its protruding (which mine is) then it needs to be filed with a small file and or with crocus cloth and then checked with a razor blade to make sure that the blade goes over the nick without catching. I think i'm going to take this route.

Any more insight on this? I do have another crank, but id rather not remove all the progress I've made and re-plastigauge etc...

[SilverXJ]

I've been doing some reading and it seems like the general consensus is that as long as its a dimple and not protruding its not that huge of a deal. If its protruding (which mine is) then it needs to be filed with a small file and or with crocus cloth and then checked with a razor blade to make sure that the blade goes over the nick without catching. I think i'm going to take this route.

Any more insight on this? I do have another crank, but id rather not remove all the progress I've made and re-plastigauge etc...

I did that once. Filed it a bit, then used 400 grit then 1000 grid sand paper. Just dont' get too aggressive and file a flat spot in the journal. As long as it doesn't protrude it will be fine.

[IH 392]

A honing stone will make quick work of that nick, a little hole is ok, oil will fill it up, don't take any more off than you have to to get it level again.

[Muad'Dib]

I had already installed the bearings in around that journal and cranked the engine over a bit installing other pistions before i came back to it. The bearings had a very deep groove in them from the knicked journal. The knick seemed smoothed out a bit already from the bearings. I removed the bearings, and i scraped off what i could with a razor Then i took a fine emery cloth to the area and now its nice and smooth. Installed a new set of bearings, and im not going to think twice about it.

I have a odd question, and honestly i havent looked in my FSM yet but... how do i get the crank / cam relationship back?? Just make sure number 1 is at TDC, and line up the timing marks or...?????

[SilverXJ]

Yes, thats it. Put crank to TDC and line the marks up on the sprockets.