go4lo wrote:
Thanks....I assume - '98 and earlier cam bolt kit: Jeep #83502890, washer: #J3173284. I guess I'll have to go to local JY or to the stearlership to pick up both? I can't find them aftermarket.
Thats it. Hesco does have it. Or try the dealer
IF a cam has a built in advance or retard should the timing gears be set up to match the advance built into the cam or will that double the advance/retard? Example, cam has 4* advance built in, should the timing set be set to 4* as well or set to 0?
No, the timing set should be installed straight up to use the ground in advance/retard. Or use the keys to match the grind card. Sometimes the cams are off a few degrees and the timing set is used to make up for that.
Just a tip: the pin that puts pressure on the timing cover was HORRIBLY rough in my kit.
I put it into a drill, with the side that goes towards the cover "out", then touched it against some sand paper... 120 to 400 to 1200 to 2000 grit... got it nice and shiny/smooth. A rough pin would chew up the aluminum real quick.
go4lo wrote:
Thanks....I assume - '98 and earlier cam bolt kit: Jeep #83502890, washer: #J3173284. I guess I'll have to go to local JY or to the stearlership to pick up both? I can't find them aftermarket.
Thats it. Hesco does have it. Or try the dealer
IF a cam has a built in advance or retard should the timing gears be set up to match the advance built into the cam or will that double the advance/retard? Example, cam has 4* advance built in, should the timing set be set to 4* as well or set to 0?
No, the timing set should be installed straight up to use the ground in advance/retard. Or use the keys to match the grind card. Sometimes the cams are off a few degrees and the timing set is used to make up for that.
Thanks...found them on the Hesco site and ordered.
lafrad wrote:Just a tip: the pin that puts pressure on the timing cover was HORRIBLY rough in my kit.
I put it into a drill, with the side that goes towards the cover "out", then touched it against some sand paper... 120 to 400 to 1200 to 2000 grit... got it nice and shiny/smooth. A rough pin would chew up the aluminum real quick.
Thanks for the tip.
Another question. I spoke to Benny(sp?) at Hesco regarding the cam bolt parts and few other questions. He asked me about the cam/spring set up I plan to run. He stated that the Mopar Performance springs did not provide for any more lift than the stock springs and that my cam choice (68-231-4 - 0.462/0.485 lift) would be pushing it on those springs? He said I should look at his springs and retainers; however his springs/retainers require the spring seat to be machined. I was under the impress that the MP springs did NOT require machining of the spring seat? Was he blowing smoke or what am I missing?
There are multiple versions of mopar performance springs. The P4529215 are stock replacements that are good up to .430" lift. The P5249464 are the ones to go with for cams up to .525" lift. No machining is necessary with these springs, although some minor clearancing to the valve cover might be needed.
gradon wrote:There are multiple versions of mopar performance springs. The P4529215 are stock replacements that are good up to .430" lift. The P5249464 are the ones to go with for cams up to .525" lift. No machining is necessary with these springs, although some minor clearancing to the valve cover might be needed.
That's what I thought...I have the P5249464 springs so I should be good to go. Thanks for the confirmation.
I need to order some injectors but I'm a little confused.....please take me to injector school......
As previously mentioned I'll be running the OBD II electronics from the '99 XJ along with the 49PSI fuel rail. I'm thinking that a mustang 24lb injector will be fine. Dino's "Medium-Buck Stroker" build, which is identical to mine, calls for a 26lb injector. However most of the 24lb injectors on eBay state that at 50psi they are ~26lb. Also I was under the understanding that the plugs on the later style fuel rails are different than the earlier ones.
Which style should I be looking for? Should something like the link below fit the bill?
There are certain Ford injectors that most people run. I cannot recall the part number, but I think SilverXJ knows what flavor to look for.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
seanyb505 wrote:There are certain Ford injectors that most people run. I cannot recall the part number, but I think SilverXJ knows what flavor to look for.
Thanks seanyb. Hey silverXJ, any suggestions or advice?
It's been a few months since I've updated this thread but I finally got my engine back from the machine shop after 8 weeks on Saturday. Below are a few pics of it, let me know what you think
Final Deck Height ending up being ~ 0.01" and less than 0.005 was taken off the head so according to the calculator my numbers "should" end up being:
CC: 57.5cc
DCR: 9.69
SCR: 8.45
Quench: 0.053
Head bolted on with Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
I decided to keep the black and silver them of the truck going so the engine was painted black and silver.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
... How is the stroker running??? 