Oil?

[Flash]

im getting very confused with all the info iv been reading about zinc ppm in oil, and that diesel has detergents and may contain to much zinc? my stroker is going into a 2001 wrangler with cats. i just need some clear straight info what oil should i use to break in my engine with a crane mild cam? and should i use zddp or gm-eos?

i really appreciate it guys , im only a few days away from start up, and this is my first build.
thanks again!

Personal i would say: Use you favorite oil! for cam brake in/eng brake in.............add a bottle of EOS or Equivalent for the next several oil changes.
Cam Brake in should be done Exactly as the cam manufacture suggest!!!!!!!!!

As far as Eng Brake in..........DRIVE IT LIKE YOU SOLD IT!!!! just kidding.....kinda. Drive it how you will be driving it. brake the eng in-to your driving habits........Exceptions to the rule!!!!! Don't lug it down, and shift it 5 to 800 rpm lower then red line, for the first 500 miles.

As far as ZDDP/ EOS goes.....and cat's go............................ will your cat plug if you us EOS with EVERY oil change????? I say NO! If you have a broken piston ring and the eng is smoking, Yes, it will plug you cat......Even If there was NO ZDDP in the oil
As long as you keep the ZDDP below 1200-1300 ppm(Which is tuff to get it that High theses days!) Your cat will NOT be failing any time soon becouse of it.
Cats are jeneraly designed to go 100,000 miles...........would you be truly hart broken, if it only when 80,000 miles and you were still on you first CAM!!!!!!!!!
Just my .02

Fash

[shockcocker04]

gotcha lol i see the big picture now!

[SilverXJ]

mopar makes some as does gm..

Do you have any info on the Mopar part number?

[COMANCHEDUDE]

4. Brad Penn 20w-50 is the same as Kendall GT-1 20w-50. Same oil, different bottle. Rule does not apply to other weights.

The above statement is wrong information. Kendall brand name is owned by ConocoPhillips and has been for several years . and is just regular engine oil

Brad Penn is what was Kendall was years ago but of course using modern refining and made at the same refinery as the "original" Kendall. so the correct information is that you have to buy Brad Penn "HI PERFORMANCE" oil to get what you need. don't buy any Kendall labeled oil as its just a brand name and is made to current industry specs with no performance additives needed for our applications.
you can get detail information on the history and specs of Brad Penn here
http://www.bradpennracing.com/history.html
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.html
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/racingoils.html

[gonridnu]

After reading a variety of posts here that appear to deal with oil related failures and questions regarding additives for break in I thought I would pass on a little knowledge I have.

Last year I was invited to an oil seminar put on by Joe Gibbs Racing Oil that was held at Erson Cams manufacturing facility. In attendance were several engineers from a variety of west coast aftermarket manufacturers. The speaker was an engineer from Joe Gibbs' team.

As you may or may not know, Cup teams are required to run flat tappet cams. To achieve the RPM they run at they use very high spring pressures that require welded hard face cams. As the traditional oils reduced the amount of zinc they began to experience failures and sought out an oil manufacturer to create a working relationship with. At the same time many machine shops were experiencing the same sort of failures and resorted to a variety of fixes. Our shop used to use Kendall oil with GM E.O.S. as a supplement and we did very well with it, however Kendall has since been bought by someone else and the formulation changed.

Joe Gibbs now private labels a couple oils they have specifically made for them that should be of interest to you. They have a break in oil BR30 and BR40 that has all the supplements of days gone by. They also make the HR (Hot Rod) series of oils for use after break in. Because they are not sold as "street legal" oils they have the zinc phosphate and other ingrediants that are illegal in traditional "street legal" oils including diesel oil.

I used BR 30 in my 540" dodge engine with 400 lbs of open pressure on a flat tappet cam and had zero issues with break in. As I have not put very many miles on it I am still running the BR oil but intend to go to the HR oil when it is time. My big engine uses the exact same lifter you use in jeeps with the addition of a .010" EDM'd hole in the face of the lifter for additional lubrication.

I have in the past sold Red Line, Royal Purple, and Kendall as well as using Mobil one and saw a variety of problems with them. I highly recommend you check out the Joe Gibbs Racing Oils before you believe any of the propaganda from the other manufacturers. It is a bit pricy but so are the problems I read about here with failed cams and distributor drive gears. Just my .02

[SilverXJ]

before you believe any of the propaganda from the other manufacturers.

Which is the same propaganda every oil company uses, "Our oils is superior because blah blah blah" lol. Including Joe Gibbs.

[Bodo]

I highly recommend you check out the Joe Gibbs Racing Oils before you believe any of the propaganda from the other manufacturers.

Already have a case of the BR50 for break in

[SilverXJ]

You mean BR30? I don't think they have a BR 50, only BR and BR30.

[Bodo]

yup, BR (15W-50)