Building a New Stroker

Newbies, and basic Stroker Recipes... Get started with your first stroker here!!
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jsawduste
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by jsawduste »

SilverXJ wrote:I cleaned this thread up as best as I could, which I should have done earlier. Play nice and keep it civil.

As for on topic, my stroker has 9.5:1 static and 8.29:1 dynamic, .048" quench. Running the Comp Cam 68-231-4 I was able to run midgrade (didn't get around to try 87), but the AFRs in WOT were very rich, around 10-11:1, far from where they should be for optimum power. It did not ping in WOT with that AFR. Still running midgrade I started to pull fuel out where necessary to get it closer to 12.5-13:1. When I was right around 12.5:1 it started to ping. Filled up with premium and brought it closer to 12.5-13:1 with out ping.

To sum up, I was able to run midgrade with a very rich AFR.
Silver,
IMHO you are about where you want to be. That is, running a WOT 12.5 AFR with just the slightest of ping. Agree that 10-11 is a bit on the rich side and is band aiding .

Contary to popular belief. Engines run at WOT make there best SUSTAINED power just short of chuffing soot/edge of detonation. Now I did not say pre ignition. That is a totally different subject.

While you may see a higher "flash" power at a higher AFR it will not be a sustained power.

So your 12.5 AFR/edge of the flame speed propogation is about right for WOT. My guess would be a little more timing with a higher grade of COMPARABLE fuel might net you a small increase. However, your efforts have proven to be closely optimized with what you are running now. Based on your comments.

As always, I invite you to research my comments/opinions and make your own conculsions.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by Cheromaniac »

jsawduste wrote:As always, I invite you to research my comments/opinions and make your own conculsions.
You've made some very intelligent comments in your last two posts. Agree 100%. Hope the OP chimes in with more info., including the elevation that he normally drives at.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by jsawduste »

Cheromaniac wrote:
dwg86 wrote:Maybe others can chime in on what the minimum octane they can run, and what their DCR is. Then just maybe we could get a better handle on this.
Here in the UAE there are 3 grades of fuel available: 91 RON E-Plus (87 US Octane), 95 RON Special (91 US Octane), and 98 RON Super (94 US Octane). My stroker has a SCR of 9.25:1. When I had the Crane 753905 cam, the DCR was 7.86:1 and I ran Special year round. Swapping the stock cam in dropped the DCR to 7.36:1 and I can run E-Plus during the cooler months when daytime temps. are not higher than 85*F. I'm running the stock computer, stock Champion RC12LYC plugs, a Robertshaw 180* t'stat, 3-core radiator, and a Flowkooler water pump.
On the dyno my A/F started at ~14:1 at 1500rpm, gradually decreasing to ~13:1 at 4000rpm, ~12.5:1 at 4500rpm, and ~11.5:1 at 5000rpm. I've got my MAP adjuster set at 5.2v and the A/F ratios at idle/cruise are stoichiometric.

Dino, this is the one type of information I am referring to. I would bet that the refineries in your country create there fuels using different additives then we do here in the states. Much of it driven by government mandated emissions laws that I would expect are not the same as yours. So to say that your 91 octane burns the same as ours would be speculation. Let`s be careful and compare apples to apples when handing out advice.

Even something as straight forward as the degreeing the cam can have a change in how an engine operates. Manufacturing tolerance stack up, parts choice and assembly practices in itself can make a huge difference. What if you used a brand x timing set up and I used a brand z ? The only sure way to compare would be the actual measured cam timing via a degree wheel and a dial indicator. That is, if we both measured the same way. I can tell you my cam is really 3.5 * advance when it was supposed to 4 *. Many cams have a buit in advance/retard as part of there make up. So a Crane at 4* and a Comp at 4* may not even be close.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by MarineJRM »

Hey guys I have ordered my whole cam kit from Comp Cams I went with the 68-232-4 K kit which includes the springs lifters and timing chain with the retainers and such as well. I live at sea level and drive my Cherokee as a daily driver to and from work about 80 miles a day. I would like to obtain maximum power retaining the benefit of economy of running 87 octane. I just got off the phone with my Machine shop guy and the block is bored and ready to go I am still waiting for my pistons and whole rebuild kit with everything as well as my crank. My Cherokee is an auto with the AW4 99XJ. I have it lifted 5 inches with 33 BFG Mt's on it and am running 3.55 gears and am going to be going to 4.10's eventually. The main thing I need to know is what should I do to tweek this build to be better suited to run on 87 octane like my current 4.0 in my jeep does. :rockout:

This is my build

98 4.0 block
.020 bored over
.0 deck
.043 head gasket
18.8cc piston area (I obtained that using the 802cp with including the gain from the ring depth as was posted on the linked stroker build http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles ... index.html)
5.875 cast 707 connecting rods
250 intake duration
(Comp Cam 68-232-4)
113 cam lobe seperation angle
3 degree advance
#24 Ford injectors

this gave me a 8.49 DCR and a 9.88 SCR and a quench of .043
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the retainers in the kit won't work on the 4.0L head. The kit is made to fit a 258 head and the 4.0L uses a different valve stem size. IIRC the 268 uses a 11/32 valve stem and the 4.0L uses an 8mm stem.

Did you say your machine shop bored the block without having the pistons in hand? I hope not.

I really don't know if you will be able to pull off 87 octane gas with that high of a compression. I wish my engine was still together so I could do some more experimenting as to what octane I could run on it at what AFR. As stated before it ran with out issue on mid grade until I started to tune it. Then it started pining on midgrade. Premium fixed it. However, I use and Apexi to pull or add fuel to the mix, which is bacisally a MAP adjuster with multiple points. While I still consider it "rice" it works and the nice thing is that I can have two programs to switch between. I.e. I can have a program for when I run premium to get as close to 13:1 with out ping and then I can have the pig rich program for running 87.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by jsawduste »

Speaking for a very generic point of view.

An XJ that is lifted 5 inches, running 33`s and 3.54`s. Plus an automatic with a low stall speed. Your stroker is going to have it`s work cut out for it. If for no other reason the gearing. You will be spending a lot of time in the lower RPM ranges asking that engine to pull.

While the cam 4* advanced will help. I tend to doubt it will run well on 87 octane. Like Silver, if you wanted to invest in an Apexi or other tuner it might help. But the help will be in the form of a band aid approach.

I would consider doing the gearing before modifying the engine parameters, as a start.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

Yeah.. I kind of looked over the 33s and 3.54s. When I went from the stock size to 31s I noticed a loss of power... going to 4.11s is on the agenda some time for me as I've made the decision that my XJ will never see anything larger than a 31" tire and mild trails. However, I do have intentions to build a trail rig.. just I have too much work in this XJ to do serious damage on the trails to it.

I really wish there was a true answer as to what DCR and octane combo can be run. I have researched this to death and have come up with no answer. I see people with Chevy V8s saying you can run a 10:1+ SCR on 89 octane, but they are also probably running a high duration cam. Then there are some modern engines that are all aluminum and have VVT that have a high SCR and can run 87. I don't know how they do it.. maybe its the variable cam timing, the aluminum, or their engine is modern. Or maybe they ping and their knock sensors retards the timing. Yeah, we don't have the luxury of knock sensors here.. we don't need that fancy gadgetry. Just don't let your wife/gf drive it and fill it up with the cheapest gas she can find. I can hear it now "But its just a Jeep"...
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by IH 392 »

SilverXJ wrote:Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the retainers in the kit won't work on the 4.0L head. The kit is made to fit a 258 head and the 4.0L uses a different valve stem size. IIRC the 268 uses a 11/32 valve stem and the 4.0L uses an 8mm stem.
Unless some of the really late ones that I haven't messed with have smaller valve stems the 258's all have 3/8" stems, other than that, YEP!, I've got a set of retainers from CROWER sitting here that we couldn't use on the 280 in Dads race car because I put the 4.0 valves in the 258 head, cut it for false guides and put 5/16" guides in it.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by MarineJRM »

I was told that he put a rough bore in it and is waiting for me to get him the pistons to finish it. Also does anyone know the real dish volume in cc's on the 802's? I have found several volumes between here and other sites and can not find anything from federal mogul themselves. I am planning on having them dished to provide a better DCR for me to run the lower octane.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by jsawduste »

MarineJRM wrote:I was told that he put a rough bore in it and is waiting for me to get him the pistons to finish it. Also does anyone know the real dish volume in cc's on the 802's? I have found several volumes between here and other sites and can not find anything from federal mogul themselves. I am planning on having them dished to provide a better DCR for me to run the lower octane.
I would not reley on internet experts to answer such an important question. But then you could do it yourself. It is`nt that hard. I would think your machine shop should be able to measure it.

Barring that the best source of information would be FM. Try harder, they do have someone there that can answer your question. Ya just gotta dig deeper.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by jsawduste »

I really wish there was a true answer as to what DCR and octane combo can be run. I have researched this to death and have come up with no answer. I see people with Chevy V8s saying you can run a 10:1+ SCR on 89 octane, but they are also probably running a high duration cam. Then there are some modern engines that are all aluminum and have VVT that have a high SCR and can run 87. I don't know how they do it.. maybe its the variable cam timing, the aluminum, or their engine is modern. Or maybe they ping and their knock sensors retards the timing. Yeah, we don't have the luxury of knock sensors here.. we don't need that fancy gadgetry. Just don't let your wife/gf drive it and fill it up with the cheapest gas she can find. I can hear it now "But its just a Jeep"...[/quote]

My opinion, based on non substantiated fact is that the main culprit of the I6 lies in the cylinder head. You have the exhaust and intake manifolds right on top of each other. Not to mention the ports themselves beside each other. By the time the intake charge enters the combustion chamber it is already well heated.

Cooling efficiency of the block and head plus the latent heat that cast iron holds is transffered to the intake charge.

Perhaps Leee could make us a cross flow head of aluminum ?
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by SilverXJ »

jsawduste wrote: Perhaps Leee could make us a cross flow head of aluminum ?
My question is why the heck didn't they do that in the first place?
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by Cheromaniac »

jsawduste wrote:I would not rely on internet experts to answer such an important question. But then you could do it yourself. It is`nt that hard. I would think your machine shop should be able to measure it.
I believe the H802CP pistons have a ~15cc dish but that was the figure I also heard about for the 677P pistons that I used in my stroker. I cc'd them using the plexiglass method and they came out at 17.5cc so the static CR of my stroker ended up being 9.25 instead of the 9.5 that I'd planned. Moral of the story is you won't know for sure until you cc the pistons yourself.
jsawduste wrote:I really wish there was a true answer as to what DCR and octane combo can be run. I have researched this to death and have come up with no answer.
Yeah join the club. SilverXJ and I are also in the same boat and as we've all discovered, there are too many variables to give a definite answer.
jsawduste wrote:You have the exhaust and intake manifolds right on top of each other. Not to mention the ports themselves beside each other. By the time the intake charge enters the combustion chamber it is already well heated.
Perhaps Leee could make us a cross flow head of aluminum ?
Absolutely right. You can get 3rd degree burns on your fingers if you touch the intake manifold runners and it's all due to the non-crossflow head design. I've found the intake runners to reach as high as 160+*F. I insulated the underside of my intake manifold and that helped some, but the manifold still becomes well heat-soaked in slow-moving traffic (burns are only 2nd degree now instead of 3rd).
An aluminium crossflow head would have been the ideal solution but that would only have been possible if Hesco had also redesigned the bottom end, perhaps going for a single overhead cam design (or even DOHC). I guess Hesco baulked at that idea due to the potentially high cost involved.
jsawduste wrote:Dino, this is the one type of information I am referring to. I would bet that the refineries in your country create there fuels using different additives then we do here in the states. Much of it driven by government mandated emissions laws that I would expect are not the same as yours. So to say that your 91 octane burns the same as ours would be speculation. Let`s be careful and compare apples to apples when handing out advice.
I wouldn't be at all surprised if they use different fuel additives in the UAE so your point is well taken. I know that until fairly recently the fuel contained 10% MTBE but I don't know if they're still using it. Call it another variable that makes the question of DCR v octane even more difficult to answer.
jsawduste wrote:Even something as straight forward as the degreeing the cam can have a change in how an engine operates. Manufacturing tolerance stack up, parts choice and assembly practices in itself can make a huge difference. What if you used a brand x timing set up and I used a brand z ? The only sure way to compare would be the actual measured cam timing via a degree wheel and a dial indicator. That is, if we both measured the same way. I can tell you my cam is really 3.5 * advance when it was supposed to 4 *. Many cams have a buit in advance/retard as part of there make up. So a Crane at 4* and a Comp at 4* may not even be close.


Yeah, there's no doubt that variables you mentioned do affect the DCR and that makes it even more difficult to answer the OP's question. SilverXJ and I have tried to draw upon our experience with our own strokers to help answer his question but as you've rightly pointed out, there are a lot more dots that have to line up for the OP to run his stroker on 87 octane.
Sorry for the long post but this has become a good debate.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by lafrad »

Depending on your goals, a late intake valve closing angle can solve all the "87 octane" needs you have at low to mid RPM ranges.

My personal build is using a small cam but a late intake closing angle (retarding the cam 4*) with a High SCR to hopefully keep 87 friendly operation. the build was really inteded to be a stock rebuild, but the extra torque from the stroker was tempting... if i don't realize ALL the extra torque, so be it... its still a healthy bump over stock.
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Re: Building a New Stroker

Post by amcinstaller »

SilverXJ wrote:
jsawduste wrote: Perhaps Leee could make us a cross flow head of aluminum ?
My question is why the heck didn't they do that in the first place?
on my 258 (1980 style, amc spirit) the egr is right below the carb, and the manifolds are actually bolted together. maybe that had somethin to do with it. but im not sure on the 4.0 why. or maybe its because of where the pushrods go? ive wondered that too, almost everytime i look at my honda engine.
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