Ok gang. I am able to get a used 3235477 (that's the 4CW) crank for free. The shop I work at has one out in the shed. The engine builder took a look at it and said that I should really use the 12CW (3214723) crank.
Is there really a difference between the 12CW and 4CW cranks for a DD with occasional offroad use with regard to longevity?
Crankshaft Questions
- Muad'Dib
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
I may get flamed for this, but but it hasn't actually been proven that the 12CW is better / worse than the 4CW. Most people say to go with a 12CW. More because they think the 12CW is stronger.
Logic tells you that a 12CW is going to be heavier (which it is), and have more rotating mass. It has been said that this extra mass is good for low RPM rock crawling for instance.
The 4CW is lighter, and logic tells you that it would "spool" (for lack of a better term) up faster.
However, this is theory, not fact. I don't think anyone has any factual information on the subject .. its speculation. However, one fact is that so far no one (unless they haven't spoken up) who has built a stroker with a 4cw or 12cw has complained that they should have gone one way or the other.
A lot of people also say that if you are building a stroker for an automatic that a 4cw will be fine, but if you have a manual, than you should go with a 12cw.
I personally feel it doesn't really matter. I also think that when choosing a crank, you should just get what you can get your hands on as cheap as possible. My preference is towards a 4cw (which i am going to use for my stroker build).
If i was to advise someone to choose i would tell them to pick the 4cw, or pick one based on what transmission they are going to use like outlined above.
Hope that helps.
Logic tells you that a 12CW is going to be heavier (which it is), and have more rotating mass. It has been said that this extra mass is good for low RPM rock crawling for instance.
The 4CW is lighter, and logic tells you that it would "spool" (for lack of a better term) up faster.
However, this is theory, not fact. I don't think anyone has any factual information on the subject .. its speculation. However, one fact is that so far no one (unless they haven't spoken up) who has built a stroker with a 4cw or 12cw has complained that they should have gone one way or the other.
A lot of people also say that if you are building a stroker for an automatic that a 4cw will be fine, but if you have a manual, than you should go with a 12cw.
I personally feel it doesn't really matter. I also think that when choosing a crank, you should just get what you can get your hands on as cheap as possible. My preference is towards a 4cw (which i am going to use for my stroker build).
If i was to advise someone to choose i would tell them to pick the 4cw, or pick one based on what transmission they are going to use like outlined above.
Hope that helps.
If it feels right, then STROKE it!
- RAPTORFAN85
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
I run a 4cw crank. Never had any problems and can't tell a difference from a 12cw stroker that I have driven FWIW...
"Strrrrroke me, stoke me...."
Billy Squire
Billy Squire
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
The differences between a 4cw and 12cw crank have nothing to do with longevity - just reaction.
The 12cw has more rotational inertia, and suits a manual transmission (especially in towing/hauling applications) rather better. The filled torque converter assembly used in an automatic is rather heavier than the clutch/flywheel in a manual, so the 4cw is just fine. Also, in cases where absolute throttle response is critical, the 4cw will suit you better.
I want a 12cw when I finally do my stroker - but that's because it's going into a work truck with a five-speed, and a reasonable amount of towing and hauling is to be expected (you'd be surprised at some of the things I've moved with my XJ...)
But, if it doesn't really matter to you and you've already got the 4cw, go ahead and use it.
The 12cw has more rotational inertia, and suits a manual transmission (especially in towing/hauling applications) rather better. The filled torque converter assembly used in an automatic is rather heavier than the clutch/flywheel in a manual, so the 4cw is just fine. Also, in cases where absolute throttle response is critical, the 4cw will suit you better.
I want a 12cw when I finally do my stroker - but that's because it's going into a work truck with a five-speed, and a reasonable amount of towing and hauling is to be expected (you'd be surprised at some of the things I've moved with my XJ...)
But, if it doesn't really matter to you and you've already got the 4cw, go ahead and use it.
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"I don't think any of us will ever forget Louie. Ever since the explosion, there's been a little piece of him on all of us..."
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"I don't think any of us will ever forget Louie. Ever since the explosion, there's been a little piece of him on all of us..."
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
Thanks Ya'll. I'll take it and have it ground.
- SilverXJ
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
What was the engine builder's reason?
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
It looks wimpy. I think was the actual quote.
I think he's been spending too much time building 600ci BB Chevy's...But that's Bob for ya.
I think he's been spending too much time building 600ci BB Chevy's...But that's Bob for ya.
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
All else being equal (price, availability, condition)
I'd take the 20lb weight savings of the 4cw.
It will spin up and down the RPM range more quickly than the heavier crank.
Newtons 1st law and all that.
Free crankshaft, I'm glad you took it.
I'd take the 20lb weight savings of the 4cw.
It will spin up and down the RPM range more quickly than the heavier crank.
Newtons 1st law and all that.
Free crankshaft, I'm glad you took it.
TurboTom wrote:i will eat my words later if need be.
Proud owner of many stroker parts, that have not yet spontaneously assembled themselves.TurboTom wrote: Not sure of your rules...but you need to start with an engine that works best for the rules and cheat from there!
- SilverXJ
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
Well, it does "look" wimpy. You go over to the machine shop I use and you see all these beefy looking V8 cranks. Then you saw my 4wt crank and it looks kind of sickly compared the the V8s. However, my machinist said that he would rather use the 4wt over the 12wt.
-Chris
-Chris
2000 XJ. 4.6L stroker
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
00+ Viper Coil Swap | CPS Timing Increase Mod | Fabricated Airbox | Dash bezel, Arduino Multigauge & RD Conceal
Eat, breath, drink, sleep, Jeep, drink
- seanyb505
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Re: Crankshaft Questions
You cant argue with weight saving. I havent experienced any issues with the 4wt and 5sp setup.
Now I can be like all those other awesome people with more than one Jeep in their sig, but now I have to say one of them is sold:(
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
97 XJ 4.6
90 MJ 4.0 - sold
I want to have as many Jeeps as children. DD, offroader, drag MJ and another one. 4=4
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