Jeep Strokers

tools gotta be all over the place or you cant find them, i know how you feel

Any big project ends up with tools all over the place.. and an hour of clean up. Question on the oil pan bolts... do you have an AW4? If so, you need a stud to mount the front cooler lines.. maybe two.. i think there may have been one on the front of the engine besides the one on the front passenger side.

Yeah AW4. I only need to bolt my lines to the rear near the bellhousing. The front is held up by my big ol tranny cooler.

Got alot done this weekend. As you can see the engine is in! I got everything pretty much bolted on. I thought i might have a problem with my 02 sensor bung location, but this newer style downpipe tucks alot closer to the oil pan and makes the 02 sensor have an "ok" amount of clearance to the front drive shaft.

I got enough on and in to measure my belt length. I also found out that i have to extend the IAC wiring so that it will reach the new location. Everything else looks good and seems to have enough room. Of course have a bit of vacuum line guess work to route new lines.. but thats no biggie.

Two things so far i see as a problem. One big one and one smaller.

Smaller issue.... The Quick disconnect "Clips" are different on these newer style fuel lines. I had two still from the fuel line when i got it at the yard... but i need two more. These kind dont have a small section on the end past the clip. They just end abruptly after the clip arms. Does anyone know where i can find these? Need a pic??

Second more significant issue. As i was well aware of, i cant use the big ass 90 degree elbow and be able to close the hood. I will have to go hoodless for awhile. I will probably have to adapt an aftermarket intake to work with this Dakota Throttle Body. Do you guys have any recommendations on what to purchase, or where i can source a fairly inexpensive (Stock?) intake so i can bolt the hood on?


Thanks!

i think you can get the fuel line clips at the parts store.

Yeah, i did find those fuel line disconnect clips at the local auto parts store..

I also think i may have figured out a way to get the intake to work... but i will work on that after i do the breakin.

Ive got the belt on now... what do you guys think about the routing? (Sorry drew it quick this morning because i forgot to take a pic)



Anyhow, here is what is left:

1.) Finish Extending IAC wiring.
2.) Wire and install Wideband gauge
3.) Install the cooling system and fill it up.
4.) Prime fuel rail
5.) Prime oil pump again and index distributer (Already at TDC)
6.) Do Break in!

I think my belt is routed the same way. The <1/4 wrap on the alt has worked fine for years in case anyone is questioning. I have a smaller 2045mm belt.

gradon wrote:I think my belt is routed the same way. The <1/4 wrap on the alt has worked fine for years in case anyone is questioning. I have a smaller 2045mm belt.

Yeah ive ran the 1/4 wrap on the alternator for a long time... ever since i deleted the stock mechanical fan. No problems at all.

With this new routing though i did have to cut the timing cover at that spot that sticks out away from the timing marks on it. I dont know why its even there... so i just cut it down to give some flex room for the belt.

I measured the belt at 79-1/2" and purchased a 80-1/2" (805K6) belt and it fit perfectly.

I buzzed down the timing tab and the alt bracket to clearance mine. 2045mm=80.51"( )

Well tonights got me pretty frustrated..

I filled up the cooling system and found my Heater Control Valve was busted and leaking.. No Biggie.. 40 dollars later and a new one is in. Cooling system all filled up and mounted everything else. The only thing i didnt do is adjust the TPS.

Turned crank until i felt pressure out #1 then put the crank on the 0 timing mark. Primed the Oil pump, and then installed the Distributor. Got the rest of the ignition wired up and then got ready for breakin.

Attempted to start engine. Crank Crank Crank... Tried twice and no go. Thought ok... maybe im 180 Out. So i lined up the Damper with 0 when the Rotor was pointing 180 out. Then removed the Distributor and lined it up correctly again. This time it started but stumbled and backfired a few times. I checked all the timing stuff and tried again and same result.

So im thinking its pretty obvious that the timing is off somehow.. but im at a loss as to what to do.

Again the TPS isnt dialed in all the way, and i did notice some of the wiring on the CPS are exposed because of the exhaust on the previous engine.

Is it possible the timing chain is off somehow?? There are two marks on the crank gear for 0. The mark nearest the center of the gear went over the woodruff key. The other 0 that is on the outside of the gear near the chain teeth lined up with the dot on the cam gear. Then of course i degreed the cam and it all seemed to check out fine.

Im actually pretty scared right now that im going to screw this all up.

it sounds to me that your one tooth off with the dizzy. i have done a few dizzy changes on these engines now and they are easy to get a tooth off and think you are still right. iirc i usually go one tooth in the clockwise direction off. so thats what i would try. GOOD LUCK

It was late and getting dark and i was a tooth or two off. I found TDC again today and then i noticed the rotor was pointing between #1 and #4. I re-indexed the distributer and now the rotor points at / slightly past #1.

Finished up the wiring for the IAC, and set the TPS to 4.2v. Also got the front clip on and the Hood. I figured out a way to clear the Hood with the Dakota TB... and it appears to work well. I will have to get pics of that later.. but you can see it in the video im about to post

I started her up and she sounds good! Had a bit of smoke at first from burning off the coolant that spilt out of the temp sensor port when i was filling it up with coolant and trying to get all the air out. Ran it up immediately to 3000, then after about 5 seconds dropped it down to 2000 and then alternated between 2000 and 2500 RPM's for about 23 minutes. I had to shut it off because i got above 210 due to a few small coolant leaks. I let it cool all the way down and fixed the leaks and finished break in. After 30-32 minutes or so, i drove it down the block and back and then changed the oil+filter. Then i drove it around a bit again and man i tell you what you dont know how bad i want to open her up and see what shes got. I can already tell there is a bunch of power here.

No overheating now, and oil pressure is a steady 50 from start till it completely warms up .. doesnt budge at all. Lowest i saw it drop so far is 40.

Here is the first running start video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpQLCnDfud8


All i have left to do is wire up and install the Wideband!

Got some questions about the build please bare with me..

1.) How do i properly break in the Moly Rings? Do i need to do anything special with these?
2.) Ok, so i broke in the cam and changed the oil... How soon should i change it again? 500 Miles? 1000 Miles?
3.) Is it ok that i continue to use the Comp Cam breakin oil for the first couple of oil changes? I already have it in now for the second change... but i figured it cant hurt to continue to run in for the next few changes. That along with the ZDDP plus.
4.) In regards to how to drive it during this critical period. Here is what i have gathered; Dont let it idle for extended amounts of time. When at a stop sign or light, try to vary RPM's maybe between 2000 and 2500 RPM's like when doing the cam breakin? If i drive it... make sure its at operating temp. Here is where i am confused. In order to warm the engine up.. i obviously have to run it. Is it ok to let it warm up at idle, or should i hop in and vary RPM's like cam breakin to get it warmed up?
5.) How long should i do #4 for?

I think thats it for now... thanks so much guys you all rock! Without you all this wouldnt be possible!

good,to hear it's alive! From what I've read getting the rings seated that it, is that the wise people of web-land recommend some engine braking?? I assume that's downshifting to slow.

1) Your ring manufacturer should have their recommend break in procudures for you to follow.
2) I would change it at 500 miles just to get all the metal out
3) It depends on the detergent package how long you can run the break in oil. Depending on the ZDDP load in the oil already you may not need ZDDP plus in that oil.. as well as too much ZDDp can be harmful to the engine.
4)Yes, idle as little as possible and blip the throttle every now and then. You don't have to push the RPM up like a cam break in though. No cruising at the same RPM for an extended period of time. DO not let it idle to warm up. Just drive it some what gentle before its warmed up. After that drive it as you normally would.. not like its stolen, not like your grandma.
5) Maybe 500 miles or so.

Thanks alot that helps big time!

I put about 20 miles on it today. Everything seems great no unusual noises. Oil pressure has changed. Its approx 25-30psi HOT. and 40-50 Cold. When HOT and above approx 1000-1500RPM's Oil pressure is 40+. Seems perfect to me.

I pulled a plug and it looked perfect. Didnt smell of fuel and appeared to have a good burn pattern on it.

A small concearn. I was fixing an issue wth the intake, and i pulled the MAP vacuum line off and didnt realise it. When i started it up it ran real rich i could smell the fuel. Ran it like that for about 10 seconds or so. Then when i pulled the plug i as a dumbass didnt put the boot back on, and started it and thought hmm something is up... maybe ran it like that for 10 seconds as well. Should i worry about the fuel that was introduced into the system at those two times? It was obviously rich as i could smell the fuel. Im thinking it will be ok, but looking for the expert opinion

Thanks!