Jeep Strokers

Title pretty much says it all, has anyone actually built the 4.6L Low Buck Option 1 stroker from Dino's page? (http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html)

That's what I'm leaning towards right now. I have a block bored .030, 12wt crank (.10/.10), reman 4.2 rods, etc etc. At this point I'm not willing to sink any more money into machine work, so no decking the block, no increasing dish volume on pistions. I need to get this thing back together. I've been driving a Cobalt and I miss my TJ terribly.

Does anyone have any recommendations or modifications to that particular build or is it generally a pretty decent setup?

Also, for those in the know.. That build should run fine off of 93, maybe 89, correct? I realize a static CR isn't as good to go off of as a dynamic, but I can't figure what half of the things in the calculator mean.

Thoughts?

Totally off topic but that was the 10,000th post.

Back on topic, pinging will depend on the cam you're using (I assume stock since you didn't say otherwise) and the altitude of operation. Higher altitudes like Denver == less pinging on the same octane rating.

Like I said, 4.6 Option 1.. It specs a Comp 68-231-4, definitely not stock.

My original stroker spec was very similar except for 677P20 pistons and a Crane 753905 cam. CR was slightly lower at 9.25:1. Ran great for 34k miles until two lifters and one cam lobe bit the dust. Replaced with stock '92 cam and new lifters 19k miles ago so it became a 4.6L version of the poor man's simple stroker.

Cheromaniac - Thanks for the reply, that makes me feel better especially considered I just ordered all of the parts today. As far as the cam and lifters go, that's the exact reason why I've decided to run Brad Penn G1 oil in the new motor. I'll run 2 cycles of break in oil as per recommended, then straight to G1. No more Mobil 1 for me.

Speaking of parts... I *highly* recommend Falcon Global (the ebay guys, 800.756.1114) as a supplier. I spoke with Charlie who not only knew the parts he was selling, but also appears to know a bit about the Jeep strokers. He said he's been selling quite a few kits to guys like us.

Since my motor grenaded catastrophicly, I decided that nothing would be used from the old motor. Something about bits of aluminum in the oil pump, etc Today I put an order in with Charlie @ Falcon;

Head bolts
Pushrods
Comp 68-231-4 cam
Cloyes timing kit
Clevite rods (.10)
Clevite mains (.10)
New harmonic balancer
Perfect Circle rings (.030)
Victor full gasket kit
SP H825CP pistons (.030)
Oil pump
Lifters

All said and done, shipped to me, $748.xx. Not only did he absolutely smoke Summit's prices, he beat my machine shop's prices which were already pretty good on just about everything. The only thing he was a few bucks more expensive on were the Clevite's, by about $5 a set. We both think that the machine shop was going off of and old price list and the price would have increased once he actually placed the order. Not only that, but nearly everything was coming out of a local (IE, close to me) warehouse, so I should have it super quick. The pistons had to come out of Los Angeles. All said and done he saved me about $100, which basically paid 2 cases of Brad Penn oil. Super nice guy, called back when he said he would and was even short handed a guy today.

I'll update once the parts show up.

Now to go get the block, head, crank and rods from the machine shop

[edit] Heh, I just realized that Cheromaniac is Dino. You need to use the same handle across all the boards! Then again, I didn't. me = LordAthens @ JU. [/edit]

Well fawk.

I played with the CR calculator after doing some more research.. I'm worried up jumped the gun on ordering parts.

With the VicReinz head gasket @ .043, 68-231-4 cam, H825CP pistons, 4.2 crank & rods, I'm getting a SCR of 9.8 and a DCR of 8.57 with a quench height of .0645. If I go to a OE .051 head gasket, I get the SCR to drop to 9.64 and the DCR down to 8.41 with a quench height of .0725.

What I'm concerned with is how high the DCR's are. I was planning on running 89 or 93 octane in it, but is this still to high for a daily driver?

And if so, what is going to help me out? Dishing the pistons? If I up the dish cc to 18 vs the stock dish of 15.8, I get it to drop down to 8.43, but I'm really trying to avoid any more machine work. Maybe a different cam?

*Things to note; I left the default combustion chamber volume, deck clearance and gasket bore as the default values. I didn't enter anything for ring height nor bore clearance. The head is a 100% bone stock, 70k mile head, short of new valve guides. The block was bored and honed .030 over, no decking.

Help. Again.

Contact Oletshot and have him dish the pistons to 20cc's. He did my H802's to 20, which are the same as yours but with metric rings. Its worth it.

my setup is pretty basic - with around 9.7 comp. and prolly around .090 quench. pretty lousy numbers, but i run on 92-93 octane with no pinging. However - i'm running a carb so i have more tuning options to compensate for pinging.