Jeep Strokers

I found these on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler ... ccessories

The top one has been ported and polished...

Seems like a good deal to me??

From what I can see in the pics the p&p job looks pretty good. I would ask them for flow numbers if they have them. Also, you may want to take in consideration what valve springs you may need to use, which depends on what cam you will use.

I found this on ebay the other day. I think I may go with one eventually because it's already P&P'd and cleaned 'n' machined.
As for fitting on my matching my 97 it should be no issue, just might need to put a bolt where the water temp sender goes.

SilverXJ,
What about valve springs now? I'm not tracking what you're saying. I was planning on just buying the COMP K68-232-4 complete kit which includes springs and a Yella Terra roller rocker setup.

I wouldn't use the Comp Cam springs. for one they are installed at 1.8", and the Jeep head is 1.64", so you would need to have the seats machined to begin with, second for all the Jeep cams Comp recommends ridiculous spring rates for what the cam is.

PolloLoco wrote:I found this on ebay the other day. I think I may go with one eventually because it's already P&P'd and cleaned 'n' machined.
As for fitting on my matching my 97 it should be no issue, just might need to put a bolt where the water temp sender goes.

SilverXJ,
What about valve springs now? I'm not tracking what you're saying. I was planning on just buying the COMP K68-232-4 complete kit which includes springs and a Yella Terra roller rocker setup.

The retainers that come with the K kit won't work on the 4.0 head. The retainers are made for a 258. The 258 uses a 11/32 valve with a 7 degree lock. the 4.0 uses an 8mm valve with an 8 degree lock. Also the 4.0 valve has a round groove in the valve for the valve lock. This needs to be put in FAQ section.

dwg86 wrote:

PolloLoco wrote:I found this on ebay the other day. I think I may go with one eventually because it's already P&P'd and cleaned 'n' machined.
As for fitting on my matching my 97 it should be no issue, just might need to put a bolt where the water temp sender goes.

SilverXJ,
What about valve springs now? I'm not tracking what you're saying. I was planning on just buying the COMP K68-232-4 complete kit which includes springs and a Yella Terra roller rocker setup.

The retainers that come with the K kit won't work on the 4.0 head. The retainers are made for a 258. The 258 uses a 11/32 valve with a 7 degree lock. the 4.0 uses an 8mm valve with an 8 degree lock. Also the 4.0 valve has a round groove in the valve for the valve lock. This needs to be put in FAQ section.

Done thanks very much for the information!

Paying ~$400 for a p&p'd head to your door might be very much worth it for those that plan on having their head cleaned, machined for flatness, a 3-angle valve job, pressure checked(I payed $230 for those) and want a p&p but don't feel like buying the SA kit($40, can be used on at least 2 heads and other misc projects), a die grinder($25, good to have for many misc jobs), a compressor($?--I used the one my brothers and I bought as a present for dad)and spending 20 hrs grinding(was a great experience, but I had the time), and knowing a professional did it and guarantees their work. If you plan on using a bigger than .43" lift cam, go to advanced auto or autozone, rent their spring compressor tool(for free when returned) and swap out those springs for the P5249464s($7 ea at AA, and good for up to .525"lift) and sell off the ones that came with it. It's a no brainer for those that don't have a good HO head(7120 or 0630) around for their build.

That was really my whole point. I personally need to source a head (at the local u-pull-it for less than 100 im sure) then have all the work done to it. Seems like an inexpensive option and its allready been worked for you. It almost seems to good to be true! Now if i only had $400 Anyone want to loan me some money for my build

It cost me $580.00 to get my head out of the machine shop. The only parts I bought from the shop were the valve seats(I supplied the rest). All the other cost was machine work.

I really wonder how many hours are put into those ebay heads, Normal shop rate would be $75 or more, so 4 hours would be $300. You have the costs to aquire the head, clean it, replace worn parts, etc. I think you may get your monies worth. I do not think it will be a fantastic value.

I went through his ebay feedback ratings and out of 200+, there were a few negative(damaged heads in shipping process, one or two that were cracked), a few neutral(shipping took too long, customer had to pay for shipping of 2nd good head), but over all people were pleased with the machine work and nothing negative with any Jeep head(Mercedes and Toyotas were two other popular ones).

I asked them for more information about the heads.. more specefically the ported and polished ones:

Question:

Me wrote:How much was taken off the head to make it flat? Were the combustion chambers messed with at all? If so do you know what the volume is of each chamber?

Answer:

pepo289 wrote:For the surface, is taken around .020"
For the chambers .025".
Not sure abouth the volume per chamber.

Response:

Me wrote:Thanks very much for your prompt reply.

I'm in the process of building a stroker which requires me to be very certain about my compression ratios. Part of this is knowing my combustion chamber volume. If I was to decide on purchasing one of these heads from you, would you be willing to provide this information on the head that I would purchase? Since you said that the volume is unknown, I assume that each head that you do comes out different, that's why I would need to know the exact measurement before purchase.

Answer:

pepo289 wrote:Waiting for response...

I had a thread going under stroker basics on the subject of " Need a number" Everybody seem to settle on 1cc in reduction of chamber volume for every .007 removed from the head, so a little less than 4CC if .025 was removed. If tou plan to clean up the combustion chamber or unshroud the valves, you will probably add this much back in.

i also emailed them about getting a bare head and it was a no go. so im doing it myself

I never got a response to my last question, so im probably not going to buy from them either. They could at least be respectful and say "Sorry we wont do that".. instead i just didnt get a response.