Newbie Cheap Cherokee Stroker

[laxplayermjd]

Hey guys,

First off im new to the world of jeeps. I am learning as much as i can with the endless bookmarked web pages around for XJ and the stroker.
I am picking up a 88 Cherokee 4x4 Auto with 185k for $500 this weekend. Now the engine runs, it was overheated, and attempted to be fixed by backyard mechanic. There is a coolant leak at the rear of the engine somewhere. Havent got to look at it good yet. Possible block or head is cracked. Now id appreciate any input from you guys.

First i probably have to atleast do a head gasket. I would like to do a stroker tho. I spoke with a friend that has a '82 258 complete engine laying around that he would let go for $300. Would i then have to get those rods and crank reconditioned? I dont want to spend a ton of money due to that the fact i didnt pay a whole lot for the jeep. Would it be better cost effective to buy a crank from autozone (3727 Crank) and rods on ebay for approx the same price.

Second i will want to use the 258 rods due to the excess cost for pistons on the 4.0 rod. Now since the engine was overheated do you think it should be bored. If i bore it it will be .030. So std bore or .030. What machine costs am i looking at for the bottom end? What machine work needs to be done? Deck block due to the excess quench that would result? And what are the most common piston availble? Thanks for the help guys. I look foward to keeping up to date project info.

[yuppiexj]

Welcome.

Check the rearmost freeze plug when you pull the head.
My bet it's leaking from there, and you'll need to replace all of the freeze plugs.

If it was overheated HARD the common wall between cylinders 5 and 6 may have cracked.
Mine did, it took 10 miles of 55MPH with no water, I only stopped when it did after it cooled down I patched up the bad water pump refilled and got another 55K miles out of it.
I gave the engine away after I flopped my xj on its side, when my buddy sent the block to be tanked and magnafluxed they find a crack going from the deck 80% to the bottom of the bore.

[laxplayermjd]

well the previous owner changed the other day before i picked it up. Already the oil is gray. A ton of water is mixed. We removed the engine and found freeze plug on the sit of the block rotted through. Seem they filled it with water and left it. Going to get a new motor from pull a part then maybe use the removed one for stroker if this check out.

[laxplayermjd]

well guys got an engine stand. Going to disassemble complete motor tomorrow and inspect. Hope for no cracks. and No major problems. Will update more later.

[laxplayermjd]

Well disassebled engine today.It went fairly well. Found head gasket with 9076PTI number on it. What kind of gasket is this? It kinda looked like it was blocking off coolant passages? Took some measurements. Found cyl head is warped .007" in areas and block is warped .004" in areas. Removing rods and pistons,bearings are toast at 185k miles. Found number 4 rod and piston didn't rotate that freely, in this cylinder found some gouging on the cyl wall the bottom as well as the piston skirt. Maybe the wrist pin slighty siezed up causing this? Also set the head upside down and put some antifreeze in the combustion chambers testing for leaking valves. After not much time found leaking valves on 3 diff cylinders. Instead of getting this head fixed. think i am going to purchase rebuilt head off ebay.
Now onto the block. There some wear on the cyl bores especially on cyl 4,how do i know if a .030 overbore will take enough off the walls to fix this? Lifters were a pain to remove. Is this normal. Block need to be cleaned and checked for cracks. Previous owner just kept adding water. Theres alot of gunk and rust in the coolant passages. I wish to achieve a zero deck height. There is no spec for specific machining right? Do i need to get the rods and pistons and give to the machine shop at the same time?

[Muad'Dib]

Well disassebled engine today.It went fairly well. Found head gasket with 9076PTI number on it. What kind of gasket is this? It kinda looked like it was blocking off coolant passages? Took some measurements. Found cyl head is warped .007" in areas and block is warped .004" in areas. Removing rods and pistons,bearings are toast at 185k miles. Found number 4 rod and piston didn't rotate that freely, in this cylinder found some gouging on the cyl wall the bottom as well as the piston skirt. Maybe the wrist pin slighty siezed up causing this? Also set the head upside down and put some antifreeze in the combustion chambers testing for leaking valves. After not much time found leaking valves on 3 diff cylinders. Instead of getting this head fixed. think i am going to purchase rebuilt head off ebay.
Now onto the block. There some wear on the cyl bores especially on cyl 4,how do i know if a .030 overbore will take enough off the walls to fix this? Lifters were a pain to remove. Is this normal. Block need to be cleaned and checked for cracks. Previous owner just kept adding water. Theres alot of gunk and rust in the coolant passages. I wish to achieve a zero deck height. There is no spec for specific machining right? Do i need to get the rods and pistons and give to the machine shop at the same time?

By default all I6 head gaskets will block the ports that look like they line up to allow coolant to pass through the head and the block. This forces proper flow of coolant to the back of the head up to the front.

[laxplayermjd]

Well ive been busy working. Everything is now out of the block. I have one picture so far. Looks like some crud was pump through the oil pump and oil holes in the main. Heres the pic of the main bearings.Note that these are supposed to be the smooth side of the bearing. Crank journals look similar just not as bad, but will be using a diff crank anyhow. I hope to be having some more pics here soon to help show the before and after.

[SilverXJ]

There some wear on the cyl bores especially on cyl 4,how do i know if a .030 overbore will take enough off the walls to fix this?

I think the only way to figure out how much is to have it bored until its cleaned up. Maybe your machinist can give you a better answer.

Lifters were a pain to remove. Is this normal.

Yes, with miles and oil build up and other crap.

I wish to achieve a zero deck height. There is no spec for specific machining right? Do i need to get the rods and pistons and give to the machine shop at the same time?

Rods, pistons crank and bearing need to be given to the machine shop.

[laxplayermjd]

While the block is at the machine shop ive been thinking. Im leaning towards going with the mopar p4529228AB cam. The block is getting decked. Unclear at this moment on how much. My question is would decking about .020 off the block require the use of shorter pushrods? or is the difference minimal to have no effect? Is there a certain amount you can or cant take off and still use stock length?

[laxplayermjd]

Well got the block back from machine shop today. They bored it .030. Cleaned and checked for cracks. Installed cam bearings and predecked the block. Didnt know but the shop actually installed freeze plugs and painted the block for me too.I took it back since we will be doing all assembly ourselves. Going to order up the parts now then measure to obtain zero deck height and return the block to the shop to finish decking.

I attached some pics i took today. I was wondering where i could get some new dowel pins and there is a plug that is directly under number 2 freeze plug i need to replace.

0509091603.jpg

[laxplayermjd]

Hey guys i was playing with the stroker calculator. Im trying to figure out scr and dcr with the mopar 228ab cam. I have some questions. I know duration is 240 and lobe seperation is 108. For advance or retard im not sure what to enter. I will most likely be using a O.E. type timing set, that means it would be -8 correct? Is there built advance or retard into the cam?? If im thinking correct with O.E. type i can only install -8. If i purchase another set i have options of -8,0, or 8 correct? How come each cam manufacterer has a diff amount of advance/retard listed. Looking for any help guys thanks.

[laxplayermjd]

Thanks guys for the help on clearing up cam retard/advancing. At this moment this is what i may be going with.
I will be using 677cp .030 pistons----- Dishing is still open at this time 22 is what i thought should be ok.
Cam option is open. Pretty settled on mopar 228ab cam.

I will run 93 octane. 24lb injector on my renix


Stroker Calculator gives me these numbers.

Deck Clearance 0 Have not finalized decking but will measure up and should be going for zero deck height.
Gasket Thickness .043 I believe this is the spec for the Mopar MLS head gasket.
Piston Disc 22 CC This is not set for sure yet either. May have to dish more.
4.2 Rods
Cam Duration 240
Lobe Seperation 108
Advance/retard 0

SCR 9.6
DCR 8.58
Quench .043

What do you guys think?

[laxplayermjd]

Well i ordered my pistons today, Sending them to oletshot. Gonna go with dish of 23cc. It coming along now.

[eastin82]

23 is a good choice

[laxplayermjd]

I figured 22 would be too close to that are of unknown for ping. So i decided one more to be safe.