Jeep Strokers

So, I'm getting ready to start my first build (with help from a professional, my uncle) I have been researching for awhile, as I do prior to undertaking anything new. And I think it's about time, the 4.0 in my ZJ has had a bad rod knock for a while. I was going to build a 4.6L 3 years ago for my YJ, but I went with a 383, I know I know. So I have a bunch of parts sitting around, and I wanted to pass them by y'all to see what I should use and what I should upgrade. The donor motor is from my 93 wrangler, I want to run pump gas 93 octane is fine, but 87 preferred in case someone else drives it. My other question is what type of head work should I do? I have not purchased valve-train components yet, as well as FPR or injectors, so any suggestions are welcomed! My uncle has some connections after building motors for 50 years, and the machine shop he uses gives him a 15-20% discount. I have a pretty good understanding of how things work, and I learn fast. I just need a little guidance, so what do you say?

Crankshaft: 4 CW .020 main .010 rod (Think I would have preferred the 12 CW for its extra weight)
Crane Cam 753901 (My understanding is the 750501 would have been better for lower octane due to shorter duration?)
Crane Lifters 99278-12
ACL Duraglide 780 Bearings that came with crank (I know I need 4.0 mains, I'm going to go with federal moguls)
Badger diamond turned pistons .030 P/N P823-030 (This was my main concern)
Grant Rings P/N P2240.030 (sufficient?)
B&P 4.2 connecting rods
Mopar pushrods P/N 33002986 (Not sure if correct length?)
Ordering cloyes timing chain

Sounds like you got most of it. I have heard bad things about the Crane cams for 4.0's so look into the cam more. I was going to run a Mopar Performance cam but I could not wait till late April or sometime in May to get it since they are back ordered. I had installed a Competition Cams Extreme 4x4 Cam.
I finally got my 4.7 installed this weekend and rove it for the first time today and in the rain it is alot of fun to drive again.
I would also swap over to the late model intake they can be really cheap if you shop around for it.

I plan on using a newer intake, thanx for the suggestions. would a stock TB be sufficient?

cavaliers1323 wrote:I plan on using a newer intake, thanx for the suggestions. would a stock TB be sufficient?

Will second the question of the Crane cam. You can do better. Take a look at the Lunati Voodoo line of cams. They have several flavors that look promising. The ramp angles are pretty steep (for a hyd. cam that is) and while a a typical 4.0 head doesn't see much improvement with lots of lift. Lunati is making the exhaust event longer then most other cam makers. Combined with a good header the engine should flow pretty well.

Gasket matching, and smoothing out the radius(es) will help flow. IMHO adding larger (intake primarily) valves is a waste of time as the bore shrouding effectively cuts off the gain in flow a larger valve might show.

Enjoy and good luck !!

Is the problem with the cam a MFG problem? Or just the specs? If the problem is MFG can the cam be plasma nitrated to help? Or is my best bet gong with the suggested cam? Which route would you reccommend as far as rocker arms valve springs etc? Thanx for the input!

The mopar performance P5249464 springs and P4452032 retainers are the only springs and retainers, that I know of, that will fit the 4.0 8mm valve stem diameter with the 8 degree retainer. The springs install at the same height (1.640) as the stock springs, so they shouldn't need any shimming. Springs are good for up to .525 lift. Spring rate is 270 lbs/in.

The cam kits that are sold with springs and retainers are for the 258 engine. They won't work on a 4.0. The 258 used 11/32 diameter valves with a 7 degree retainer.

cavaliers1323 wrote:Is the problem with the cam a MFG problem? Or just the specs? If the problem is MFG can the cam be plasma nitrated to help? Or is my best bet gong with the suggested cam? Which route would you reccommend as far as rocker arms valve springs etc? Thanx for the input!

I`d rather not answer that question definitively. There seems to have been a number of failures but that could be due to the number of that part number in the field. The cam specs seem to work well for most 4.0 apps. Which could be the reason it is so popular.

Another good choice would be the Hesco RVOB.

http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?catID=7533

So I decided to run what I have and maybe dispell some of the myths revolving around cam failures :-p but we won't get into that here. I'm planning on zeroing my deck, and running the 0.43 head gasket to tighten up the quench. Last I checked my quech should be around 0.45, does this sound alright considering this is a short rod stroker? DCR was right under 8.5, but I plan on bringing that down with a little head work, can 93 run on this DCR? I guess I need to do the work and CC the head and re-run the numbers?

I would prefer to do a long rod w/ KB pistons but moneys tight and I already have all of this stuff. Maybe next time!

I also plan on runing the springs/retainers listed above, but what about keepers, valves, and stem seals? I mean obviously only the 8 degree 8mm will work but anyone have a source on them? Should I do 1 piece stainless, do I need to swirl polish, or have a 3/5 angle valve job preformed?

What about arp main studs? Bolts?

And where are you guys getting the federel mogul bearings w/ the notch???

anyone?

cavaliers1323 wrote:So I decided to run what I have and maybe dispell some of the myths revolving around cam failures :-p but we won't get into that here. I'm planning on zeroing my deck, and running the 0.43 head gasket to tighten up the quench. Last I checked my quech should be around 0.45, does this sound alright considering this is a short rod stroker? DCR was right under 8.5, but I plan on bringing that down with a little head work, can 93 run on this DCR? I guess I need to do the work and CC the head and re-run the numbers?

I would prefer to do a long rod w/ KB pistons but moneys tight and I already have all of this stuff. Maybe next time!

You won't get a definite answer on what octane you can run with what DCR.

However, I have ran 8.42 DCR on a short rod stroker and used 93, I also ran it a bit on midgrade.

I also plan on runing the springs/retainers listed above, but what about keepers, valves, and stem seals? I mean obviously only the 8 degree 8mm will work but anyone have a source on them? Should I do 1 piece stainless, do I need to swirl polish, or have a 3/5 angle valve job preformed?

From what I heard you can use the stock locks with those springs and retainers... however there is a Mopar Performance of MP4529218, which is what I run. I've heard that the 3 angle is better than the 5 angle valve job. As far as valves, stock will work, but many people have upgraded for larger. Some run Dodge 360 valves, and some run chevy valves and others. I suggest you do a search on here or look in the projects forum for more info on valves.

What about arp main studs? Bolts?

I haven't heard of anyone using anything other then the stock main bolts. However, if you want to upgrade those you can.

And where are you guys getting the federel mogul bearings w/ the notch???

Good luck on that. Just notch your own.

I got my federal mogul bearings off ebay. They have the notch.

SilverXJ wrote:

cavaliers1323 wrote:So I decided to run what I have and maybe dispell some of the myths revolving around cam failures :-p but we won't get into that here. I'm planning on zeroing my deck, and running the 0.43 head gasket to tighten up the quench. Last I checked my quech should be around 0.45, does this sound alright considering this is a short rod stroker? DCR was right under 8.5, but I plan on bringing that down with a little head work, can 93 run on this DCR? I guess I need to do the work and CC the head and re-run the numbers?

I would prefer to do a long rod w/ KB pistons but moneys tight and I already have all of this stuff. Maybe next time!

You won't get a definite answer on what octane you can run with what DCR.

However, I have ran 8.42 DCR on a short rod stroker and used 93, I also ran it a bit on midgrade.

I also plan on runing the springs/retainers listed above, but what about keepers, valves, and stem seals? I mean obviously only the 8 degree 8mm will work but anyone have a source on them? Should I do 1 piece stainless, do I need to swirl polish, or have a 3/5 angle valve job preformed?

From what I heard you can use the stock locks with those springs and retainers... however there is a Mopar Performance of MP4529218, which is what I run. I've heard that the 3 angle is better than the 5 angle valve job. As far as valves, stock will work, but many people have upgraded for larger. Some run Dodge 360 valves, and some run chevy valves and others. I suggest you do a search on here or look in the projects forum for more info on valves.

What about arp main studs? Bolts?

I haven't heard of anyone using anything other then the stock main bolts. However, if you want to upgrade those you can.

And where are you guys getting the federel mogul bearings w/ the notch???

Good luck on that. Just notch your own.

I plan on running stock valves, I was just wondering if stockers are ok or should I spend the extra coin on the SS one piece ones?

dwg86 wrote:I got my federal mogul bearings off ebay. They have the notch.

They are on there, Thanx!

EDIT: Actually they are Clevites, but the picture shows the notch! HMMM, guess I'll just have to get them and notch them if they aren't.

They are actually cheapest on rock auto FWIW.

cavaliers1323 wrote:

SilverXJ wrote:

cavaliers1323 wrote:So I decided to run what I have and maybe dispell some of the myths revolving around cam failures :-p but we won't get into that here. I'm planning on zeroing my deck, and running the 0.43 head gasket to tighten up the quench. Last I checked my quech should be around 0.45, does this sound alright considering this is a short rod stroker? DCR was right under 8.5, but I plan on bringing that down with a little head work, can 93 run on this DCR? I guess I need to do the work and CC the head and re-run the numbers?

I would prefer to do a long rod w/ KB pistons but moneys tight and I already have all of this stuff. Maybe next time!

You won't get a definite answer on what octane you can run with what DCR.

However, I have ran 8.42 DCR on a short rod stroker and used 93, I also ran it a bit on midgrade.

I also plan on runing the springs/retainers listed above, but what about keepers, valves, and stem seals? I mean obviously only the 8 degree 8mm will work but anyone have a source on them? Should I do 1 piece stainless, do I need to swirl polish, or have a 3/5 angle valve job preformed?

From what I heard you can use the stock locks with those springs and retainers... however there is a Mopar Performance of MP4529218, which is what I run. I've heard that the 3 angle is better than the 5 angle valve job. As far as valves, stock will work, but many people have upgraded for larger. Some run Dodge 360 valves, and some run chevy valves and others. I suggest you do a search on here or look in the projects forum for more info on valves.

What about arp main studs? Bolts?

I haven't heard of anyone using anything other then the stock main bolts. However, if you want to upgrade those you can.

And where are you guys getting the federel mogul bearings w/ the notch???

Good luck on that. Just notch your own.

I plan on running stock valves, I was just wondering if stockers are ok or should I spend the extra coin on the SS one piece ones?

Stock valves are fine. I wouldn't pay what chrysler wants for the stainless valves.

The only thing on the valves I would recommend is back cutting the 32* to make them flow a bit better.