cam in 2001 block??

[RAPTORFAN85]

What do I have to do to put a performance cam in my 2001 stroker?
an earlier timing cover, spring and pin and remove the thrust plate?
Is that it?

thanks,
Jake

[dwg86]

Timing chain set for the older stlye cam. JP performance or Rollmaster are nice double roller sets. Check ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Jeep ... enameZWDVW

[RAPTORFAN85]

Already got the jp performance timing set on order from Falcon!(I love that store) forgot to mention that.,,

So then just the timing cover, cam, spring and pin are all I need at this point?
What about the cam bolt?

thanks,
jake

[dwg86]

You need the cam bolt an washer from the earlier cam. Check hesco, I think they have them.

I'm not sure if you will need the earlier timing cover. The newer one will work. It just doesn't have the little bump inside for the pin to ride on. I don't know if thats important or not. I have the same problem, but I was going to use the newer timing chain cover. I have an older one, but some of the bolts that hold the cover on are different. I need to look at my 2003 wrangler to see if thats going to be a problem.

[SilverXJ]

Some have the little bump. I have seen mine from 200 that has one, and one from 2001 that has one. However I have heard some are missing them.

[John]

You can get the bolt and parts at your Jeep dealer, Camshaft sprocket bolt: #83502890 & washer #J3173284 It has the spring and pin with the bolt.
John

[RAPTORFAN85]

So here's another question, I am running the stock cam with 1.7RR with
.433 lift intake, 256adv. dur. and 188 @ .050 (not sure on this # as I have been told 1.7RR increase duration some, but not sure how much)
And .440 lift exhaust, 260adv. dur. and 192 @ .050 (again not sure on duration due to 1.7RR)

Do you guys think that it will be worth the $$ to upgrade to a performance cam?
Is it really going to be that much of an improvement?

[dwg86]

The timing set you ordered will only fit the earlier cam.

Now this is just my opinion, I'm sure others will disagree, but I wouldn't use the old cam. If you do, I would check each lobe to make sure its not worn. You are increasing the cubic inch displacement when building a stroker, so a bigger cam will help it breathe. I'm not saying buy a big race cam, but something with the duration @ .050 around 205-214. A 4.6L 6 cylinder is a big engine when you look at each cylinder CID. If you divide 4.6 /6=.767. If that were a V8...Mutiply .767x8=6.136. convert 6.136L to CID = 374.441CID. Now 375cid is a pretty big V8. If you ran a [email protected] cam in a 375ci V8 it would be a dog. Plus a bigger cam is going to lower your DCR which will let you run a higher compression without detonating. It will bleed some cylinder pressure, but as long as you don't get to big, it won't kill you low end. I think it was comanchee's build that had a [email protected] and lift of .474. His dyno numbers were something like 260hp and 345ft/lbs of torque, and that was at the rear wheels. I think his torque maxed out at 3500rpms. I need to look up his build to comfirm my numbers. I am no cam expert by any means so you might want to consult Reed, Engle, or Racer Brown. I name these three because thier customer service has been excellent, and they don't make a cookie cutter cam. They will grind you what you need. I am running a Reed in my 401 cj5. I had Engle grind my cam for my stroker that I am building right now. I talked with Racer Brown, he didn't run me off the phone, and he gave me more info that I knew what to do with. Jim,I think that's his name,from Racer Brown likes bigger rocker ratio's because they act like fast ramp cams without having a pointy lobe, which can wear faster.

OK, found the dyno thread...
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387&hilit=dyno

[RAPTORFAN85]

The timing set you ordered will only fit the earlier cam.

Now this is just my opinion, I'm sure others will disagree, but I wouldn't use the old cam. If you do, I would check each lobe to make sure its not worn. You are increasing the cubic inch displacement when building a stroker, so a bigger cam will help it breathe. I'm not saying buy a big race cam, but something with the duration @ .050 around 205-214. A 4.6L 6 cylinder is a big engine when you look at each cylinder CID. If you divide 4.6 /6=.767. If that were a V8...Mutiply .767x8=6.136. convert 6.136L to CID = 374.441CID. Now 375cid is a pretty big V8. If you ran a [email protected] cam in a 375ci V8 it would be a dog. Plus a bigger cam is going to lower your DCR which will let you run a higher compression without detonating. It will bleed some cylinder pressure, but as long as you don't get to big, it won't kill you low end. I think it was comanchee's build that had a [email protected] and lift of .474. His dyno numbers were something like 260hp and 345ft/lbs of torque, and that was at the rear wheels. I think his torque maxed out at 3500rpms. I need to look up his build to comfirm my numbers. I am no cam expert by any means so you might want to consult Reed, Engle, or Racer Brown. I name these three because thier customer service has been excellent, and they don't make a cookie cutter cam. They will grind you what you need. I am running a Reed in my 401 cj5. I had Engle grind my cam for my stroker that I am building right now. I talked with Racer Brown, he didn't run me off the phone, and he gave me more info that I knew what to do with. Jim,I think that's his name,from Racer Brown likes bigger rocker ratio's because they act like fast ramp cams without having a pointy lobe, which can wear faster.

OK, found the dyno thread...
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387&hilit=dyno

Thanks, thats good info.

It's seems like kinda a double edge sword with the cam. I think that I am not getting all the power I should with the stock but I am hesitant to use an perf. cam and have a failure.
I guess I am going to bite the bullet and swap. I agree with you that the size of the engine requires a cam to allow it to breathe better.

What do you think about this cam.
with my 1.7RR it would put valve lift at .475 and duration at .050 at 212.
seems right in the ballpark...

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/CamDe ... sid=9&sb=1

Thanks,
Jake

[dwg86]

That cam doesn't look too bad, but the 110 lobe center angle seems a little tight for a computer-controlled engine. I was told not to run a cam with anything less than 112 lobe separation on a computer-controlled engine. You have to factor in duration because if you keep the lobe separation the same and increase duration, you're gonna increase valve overlap. If you go to http://www.reedcams.com you can look at some of their hydraulic flat tappet profiles. This is what I was talking about earlier with "cookie cutter" cams. Reed can grind you a cam with a duration and lift that you want on any lobe center line.

I had a Mopar 30AB cam that I had profiled. It was a 200 duration @ .050 and .453 valve lift using a 1.6 rocker arm and 108 lobe separation. I know some have used this cam with a computer-controlled fuel injection and not had any problems. With the duration 200 @ .050 and the lobe separation @ 108, the valve overlap was small because the duration was short. The engine still made good vacuum for the computer. 'Mgardiner1' is running this cam without any problems.

So, is that comp a good cam? It looks good but I'm not sure about the 110 lobe separation.

[dwg86]

Racer Brown has a cam that is [email protected] witha valve lift .445 with a 1.6 rocker ratio. With a 1.7 ratio the lift would be.473. You could have it ground on a 112 lobe seperation.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/RB%20Cam%20Specs.htm But like it says at the top of the page "If your not a Cam Engineer then we recommend your cam choice to someone who is." I'm not a cam engineer.

Reed has a cam [email protected] .500 valve lift or [email protected] with .501 valve lift(with 1.7 rocker ratio).

With a 1.7 rocker ratio, you are going to have some big valve lift. My Engle cam is [email protected] with .501 valve lift with 1.6 rocker ratio, 112 lobe seperation 3 degree advace ground into the cam (for chain stretch).

[SilverXJ]

I've run the 68-231-4 which has a 111 lobe separation in my 2000 XJ and never had a problem with it.

[John]

Ditto in a OBDI YJ.
John

[dwg86]

Cool its good to know what cams people are running and what works. Like I said before, I am no cam expert, I'm just passing some info I got from the cam experts. Now a cam that has 110 lobe separation with 212 Duration at .050 may have more valve overlap than the 68-231-4(you would have to look at the numbers). The more valve overlap you have the less vaccum, and low vaccum is what the ECU has trouble with. At what point is the vaccum to low? I don't know. I wouldn't want to tell you that cam is ok, and then you have trouble. Make some calls, my experience has always been positive with the custom cam manufacturers wanting to help. Not so much for the bigger companies.

[dwg86]

Here are a couple of good articles on camshafts.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html
http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/show ... 3264&DID=6

The last article shows the effect of vaccum, torque and hp with different LCA's

You can do a search for valve overlap and read a lot of articles on valve overlap.