4.6 Stroker build..pics included

[seanyb505]

The build is continuing quite slowly. The #2 and #5 pistons were swapped so that had to be redone. I'm now to the timing chain and I'm coming up with some issues. The factory service manual says to align the timing marks and remove the assembly of gears and timing chain. Sounds great, right? So naturally I expect the installation is the same as removal, but that's when the fun starts in the FSM. First off, it says only 48pin timing chains should be used. Using a 48 pin timing chain, it says there should only be 15 pins between timing marks. The problem I'm having is that my replacement coyles timing chain has 64 pins. Because of this difference I think it's safe to assume that the 15 pin measurement will no longer be accurate. Should I look for a 48 pin timing chain or just set the crank to TDC and line up the timing dots?

[Muad'Dib]

TDC line up the dots.

[seanyb505]

That seems simple and right, but the verbage in the FSM makes me second guess. Any thoughts on 64 vs. 48 pin situation?

[Muad'Dib]

Yeah... my FSM says 48 pins.. but if for example you get a newer style timing chain from a 96+ its different. So basically unless your using a stock timing set then you cant follow the pin method. I ran into that awhile back when i changed my timing set on my original motor.

[seanyb505]

It's my 97 FSM that says the 48 pin thing so I don't think that the 96+ are 64 pin stock. It looks like I have around 3/4 to an inch of slack so I'm going to go to the dealership and see what theirs actually looks like. Whole new timing set there is $110, new timing chain only is $26. Hm.. Hopefully I can get this all straightened out soon and start making some heavy progress.

Edit: The factory chain from the dealership had 64 pins, and they had no idea (nor could they look up... ) why the FSM said that. After a few hours of driving I just grabbed a chain from a parts store.

[Muad'Dib]

Maybe its not a year thing then.. maybe its just a style thing. I know that when i changed mine out i got one from a 95 or 96 and my Jeep is a 90. Here are the two different styles im talking about

Older style with typical chain:



Newer style with whatever you wanna call it chain:

[SilverXJ]

3/4" of slack? Thats a lot. Are you measuring it in both directions or just one? I.e. pull it out, then push it in, or just pushing in from rest?

Also, different chains will have different numbers of pins and links. I know that my JP Performance set has quit a bit more number of pins and links that a stock set.

[seanyb505]

Both directions. It was just too sloppy for my liking, and the new one is much tighter.

[seanyb505]

I buttoned up the bottom last night. I started on the lifters but I dont have a tool go get them into the bores and it was too late last night to go get one. Things are starting to go faster, and there are less things requiring research now. Here's hoping for smooth sailing. Yeah right.

[gradon]

I remember when first building my stroker, I couldn't get the 15 pin direction to work and was a little concerned, so I just lined up the dots. I want to use a degree wheel when building my brother's 4.9l.

[seanyb505]

It ran well the first time so that has to count for something...

[seanyb505]

My second guessing is getting the best of me. I'll be removing the oil pan and making sure that nothing is binding as it rotates. Something just isn't sitting right with me - not sure what it is, but if back tracking now means I'm not doing this again in a short while that will be worth it.

[Muad'Dib]

During assembly, did you rotate the cam / crank / piston-rod-crank assemblies to make sure they spun with little to no resistance?

[seanyb505]

The cam yes, it felt great. The crank was a bit sticky, but I turned it as I torqued it down as the FSM says to do. Now that the valve train is on I don't feel great about everything. The crank is super sticky now, and I'm rocking the cheap harbor freight engine stand when I try to turn everything. It's quite difficult to turn now, and I would just feel better to double check everything rather than assume the starter will turn everything just fine. Is this just the assembly lube sitting making it sticky?

[Muad'Dib]

When i assembled mine, everything turned pretty freely until obviously i had the head on with spark plugs in the hole. There was alot more resistance once i had all the pistons in the hole, but with a breaker bar and socket on the crank bold i could easily turn it.

I didnt try it on my cheap rebuild that "Failed", but im willing to bet it was hard to turn. On that failed rebuild, i put the #1 main cap on backwards (turned 180).