Jeep Strokers

Go easy guys, this is the first time I have done this...







In this one the area around the guide looks rough and bumpy but it's from the flash of the camera





Let me know what you think!!

thanks

Jake

a tip for ya...when porting remember do not ever lower the floor of the port.
get some chem dye also. lay it on the port windo area. then take a scribe and a straight ege and make the port window. will give you a straight line and a refferance to go by.

steve-o

dye the deck of the head also. use a head gasket for referance and scribe the bore size of the gasket/motor to the head. that way you know if you can lay back some of the chamber and gain some improved flow there also.


steve

gremlinsteve wrote:a tip for ya...when porting remember do not ever lower the floor of the port.
get some chem dye also. lay it on the port windo area. then take a scribe and a straight ege and make the port window. will give you a straight line and a refferance to go by.

steve-o

Thanks for the tips

The floor of the port was not changed at all except for removing the sharp edges and making it shiny.

The chamber clean up looks pretty well done. It will reduce the likelihood of pinging a good bit. In the combustion chamber as well as the runners the DIY is best viewed as the removal of casting flaws/machining transitions and match porting. The polishing is a byproduct of the smoothing that we are doing. Finish to 80 grit, beyond that is eye candy, and it lives in the dark. While the best bang for your buck is in the bowl area, go very slow.. easiest place to screw up also.
John

some general pic of my stuff you should get the idea what i was trying to say about the intake port window.

steve

John wrote:The chamber clean up looks pretty well done. It will reduce the likelihood of pinging a good bit. In the combustion chamber as well as the runners the DIY is best viewed as the removal of casting flaws/machining transitions and match porting. The polishing is a byproduct of the smoothing that we are doing. Finish to 80 grit, beyond that is eye candy, and it lives in the dark. While the best bang for your buck is in the bowl area, go very slow.. easiest place to screw up also.
John

That was the main goal for me. Just clean up any casting flaws, ridges and machining slop. For the most part the runners were pretty clean other than a seem running down both sides. Smoothed those over and removed the rough texture to the casting and the sharp edges on the short side radius. That was it for the runners.

In the bowl area there was a 1/4" to a 1/2" lip around the guides were they had been machiened. This was the only spot that I removed any noticable amount of material besides sloping the top of the guides. It seems to me like it should free up a lot more room for some good increases in flow without changing the size of the bowl to keep velocity up.

The last thing I did was to smooth the transition from the bowl to the valve seat. I WAS EXTREMLY CAREFULL! This is the one spot that you realy need a steady hand to do it right. There was a sharp machiened edge at about 90* to the flow. So i smoothed them right up to the seats without actualy touchiuing the seats. This also seems to me like it would make a pretty big diff. in the smoothness of the flow without affecting the charge velocity.

The combustion chamber just got a good smoothing to remove the rough matrial and to smooth the sharp edges around the seats. The one place that I was a liitle concerned about was the indents under the spark plug hole and the one opposite of that one. The edges go right up to the valves and create a small raised lip that is very thin and seems like it could make a hot spot. I wasn't sure if I should just smooth them down to match the area around them or just leave them as is. I smoothed them down to the level of the seats and called it good.

gremlinsteve wrote:some general pic of my stuff you should get the idea what i was trying to say about the intake port window.

steve

Cool, I see what you mean. Good tip, but I just used a sharpie and the gasket to port match.

Wasn't going to get too crazy and hog them out.

Finally finished this thing

All the chambers are polished and it's ready for a 3 angle valve job.

The cross buffs in the Standard Abrasives kit were too small to fit in the exhaust runners so I just finished them with 80 grit like the intake.

Oh, and I'm still working on my photography skills

Those look like you did a fine clean up, you should feel good with that job.
John

John wrote:Those look like you did a fine clean up, you should feel good with that job.
John

Thanks John,

For my first time I didn't think it was that bad.

It feels good to be done! Probably 20+ hours, but I took my time