Jeep Strokers

Almost done rounding up parts for the stroker build. Here is what I've got so far. But I have some questions.
Scat stroker crank
Russ pottenger pistons = -24 cc dish .030
Moly rings
Russ pottenger scat 4.0 rods
Comp 68-235-4 cam and lifters
As advised by russ, I've swapped to the MLS felpro head gasket .043
Sealed power bearings
Standard volume oil pump
New felpro gaskets and seals
Bbk ceramic coated header
Bbk 62mm throttle body
Ford 24 lb. Injectors
Late model style intake manifold
Haven't decided on a cylinder head yet
Will run a 2.5" exhaust with a performance muffler and no cat.
Here's my questions
I'm on the fence about a cylinder head. I know I cant run big enough valve springs in my 7120 head with out machine work... So I figure I'll just buy a head..
I'm looking at the edelbrock head and I'm also considering a russ pottenger head. I also seen that titan engines sells a performance head as well that is only 800 dollars.
Any recommendations?
Second... I'm having a hard time figuring my correct compression ratio using the calculator?
Third... fuel pressure requirements... I'm under the impression that my 94 yj already runs at 40 psi. Is that not the target fuel pressure everyone is recommending with the 24 lb injectors?
I will put a gauge on the jeep when I get back to the shop but I think 40 psi is already the spec. So would that eliminate the need for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
Anything else I need to be gathering or considering?

My jeep is not a daily driver but I do drive it a few times a week just for fun. Some of the offroad trips i go on can be a 2 hour trip one way to get there. I stay out of the mud. I like twisty, rock crawling type stuff.
Jeep set up is as follows
94 yj
Ax15
4.10 gears
37 inch tires
Any recommendations from the pros here?

Assuming you used a stock or ported 7120 head, the SCR would be ~9.5:1. If you want a ported iron head, I suggest you get one from Russ. It'll come with LS1 valves and upgraded valve springs, and he might do a deal with you if you provide your original head as a core exchange.
Your '94 YJ has a 39psi fuel system, and the rated flow of the blue Ford 24lb injectors is at that pressure, so you should be good to go.

With your gearing and tire size you will want as much low end torque as possible.

If you have deep pockets the Edlebrock would be a 1st choice but IMHO the ROI wouldn't be worth it. Its not that great of a head.

A 7120 with a bit of bowl work and factory sized valves to keep the port velocity up be my personal choice. With the cam you speced it would be a good combination.

Thanks for the feedback! I guess I was looking at the edelbrock head for the coolness factor. I'm sure my money will be more well spent going with one of Russ's heads. My gearing is always subject to go lower if and when a good deal on super duty axles comes around lol.
Any ideas on what rough hp and torque numbers will be on this set up?

I'm curious about the head issue, too, because I'm in the same predicament with having to decide to what extent the headwork needs to go on my engine.

It seems to be common to polish the combustion chambers and enlarge them some when the larger LS valves are installed. However, I was told by Clegg that they do not recommend doing any polish work or enlarging in the chambers. They said on their performance ported head they do a complete valve job, install the larger LS stainless valves and springs, mill the head, and port it. After I asked why they don't recommend polishing the combustion chamber, I was told there is "better air and fuel mixture with a rough chamber." Is this actually true? It struck me as odd since everyone else seems to be polishing and cleaning them up when you port the head. Anyone have any knowledge of their head?

With Russ' ported head I'd say 270hp & 320lbft at the crank is possible.

pineysautomotive wrote: ↑August 13th, 2020, 6:30 am My gearing is always subject to go lower if and when a good deal on super duty axles comes around.

If you're rig will be trailer queen then SD axles might be a consideration. A poor consideration still though.

The ONLY attractive part of SD axles in a factory configuration is the buy in price. Long before those axles are under your rig you'll find out the depth of compromises they present. When its done and over the results will be a giant compromise and the amount of $$ spent a poor investment. .

Much better to start with 2 SD front axles and cut and chop both of them to create one good one.

Better yet is a crate axle that is ready to be bolted in.

If you have some skills, buying a housing with only tubes and then building the axles around that platform is another very attractive idea.