Jeep Strokers

Building my first stroker after 3 months of researching and getting ready to purchase parts. Hoping to get some feedback on part selection. If it's not included it means I probably forgot it. Not sure on overbore yet. Thinking of a simple .010 Most likely my father will want to put a V8 in once this trashes. Ive heard not to go over .030. Once I get stuff finalized here I'll move my thread to the build section for pictures!

Info: 1989 YJ for daily driving and weekend crawling.
Upgrades:
Nv4500 4x4 ram
Atlas transfer
Tomwood CV
ARB back diff
Dana 30 with warren disconnect hub front diff
Rear disc brake
old man emu 2.5 lift suspension
Axles geared 4.56
EFI conversion
upgraded header
33in wheels

Reused Parts:
1993 4.0 from YJ - Sending to matching shop for rebore, hot tank, magnaflux, and painting
4.2 crank from our current engine - sending tomachine shop for magnaflux and cleaning
Connecting rods from the 4.0 - sending to machine shop for checking
Intake from the 4.0 -Possbily sending to ross to match cylinder head machining
Fuel Rail from 4.0
Waterpump from 4.0
oil filter adapter from 4.0
oil pan from the 4.0
all sensors from 4.0
Accesories from my 4.2
Most bolts
4.0 timing cover
4.2 to NV4500 flex plate
4.2 to NV4500 Flywheel

New parts:
From Summit>
Keith Black/KB Pistons UEM-KB424C.030
Hastings Piston Rings 2C667020
Melling M167HVS
Clevite Engine Parts MS-1947P - Clevite P-Series Main Bearings
Clevite Engine Parts CB-960A - Clevite AL Series Rod Bearings
Sealed Power 3818084 - Sealed Power Freeze Plugs
Edelbrock 8604 - Edelbrock High Performance Thermostats

COMP Cams 68-232-4
Clevite Engine Parts SH-1980S - Clevite Camshaft Bearings
Sealed Power HT-2011
Harland Sharp S4096 - Harland Sharp Original Roller Rocker
COMP Cams 7704-1 - COMP Cams Hi-Tech Pushrod Length Checking Tools
Fel-Pro 260-2000 (Its a kit)
Champion Spark Plugs 9034 - Champion Iridium Spark Plugs
Cloyes Gear 9-3127
BBK Performance 1724 - BBK Power-Plus Series Throttle Bodies(62mm)
Accel 150624 - ACCEL Fuel Injectors(24lb)
Ross's Edelbrock Head
Hardware:
ARP 146-2801 - ARP Pro Series Flywheel Bolts
ARP 146-2901 - ARP Pro Series Flexplate Bolt Kits
ARP 146-4201 - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kits
ARP 146-6001 - ARP Pro Series Connecting Rod Bolts
ARP 200-8557 - ARP Special Purpose Washers (To space girdle for connecting rod clearance)
Chemicals:
ARP 100-9910 - ARP Ultra Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant
COMP Cams 1590-12 - COMP Cams Engine Break-In Oil
Permatex 9128 - Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant
Permatex 77124 - Permatex Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant
Red Line Synthetic Oil 80312 - Red Line Assembly Lube

From Jegs>
Main Stud Kit Jeep 4.0L Inline 6, 2-Bolt Main
Engine Block Heater 2000-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee

From quadratic>
Design Engineering 010378 Fuel Rail & Injector Cover Kit

Brown Dog>
S2572-0, Super Kit, Classic Polyurethane

DeadJeep>
Wiring harness

Best regards from LI

That's a pretty comprehensive list of parts. I'd suggest the following changes:

1. The roller rocker arms that you need are https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s40196

2. Go for Russ Pottenger's +0.030" custom pistons (1.385" compression height) instead of the IC944. They're the correct height for the block and you won't need to have the block deck milled.

3. Russ recommends his Rollmaster timing set rather than the Cloyes dual roller.

Thank you, I've tried to think of every possible item, I don't want to be mid-build and have to wait a week for a part.

I've been in contact with Russ and he's selling me on his piston/rod combo. We also believe to push the bore .060 over since I don't plan to re-use the engine if it has to be bored again. With that can I go more than .060, or is that as far as you can safely go?

He's also advised me my chosen stud rockers are not logical and would weaken the integrity of the head due to having to bore such large threads. I'm now not sure what ratio of rockers to get.

Rollmaster I would agree is on par with Cloyes on the timing set. What is unique about his that differs from the Cloyes one?

Update:
Russ's .060 pistons/rods - replaces KB pistons and stock rods
Russ's Rollmaster timing chain - replaces Cloyes timing chain
Russ's ported intake manifold - replaces stock intake manifold
Russ's Nitride camshaft - replaces Comp cams 232
Russ's 1.65 Harland rockers- replaces Harland stud rocker

Sailboy42 wrote: ↑August 3rd, 2020, 7:23 pm Update:
Russ's .060 pistons/rods - replaces KB pistons and stock rods
Russ's Rollmaster timing chain - replaces Cloyes timing chain
Russ's ported intake manifold - replaces stock intake manifold
Russ's Nitride camshaft - replaces Comp cams 232
Russ's 1.65 Harland rockers- replaces Harland stud rocker

Sounds like a nice setup. Russ swears he's not a salesman, but the rods/ pistons sure seem like a no brainier after he explains it all. What are you doing for valve springs. That's the biggest regret from my recent engine build so far is not doing a bigger cam. The wife was on me about the money and time and I couldn't see adding another lump of money for the cam, springs, spring pocket work, etc, while staying married. My engine still pulls good but it falls a little flat once it gets into the 4500rpm range with my stock cam.

KarmaKannon1 wrote: ↑August 3rd, 2020, 8:37 pm

Sailboy42 wrote: ↑August 3rd, 2020, 7:23 pm Update:
Russ's .060 pistons/rods - replaces KB pistons and stock rods
Russ's Rollmaster timing chain - replaces Cloyes timing chain
Russ's ported intake manifold - replaces stock intake manifold
Russ's Nitride camshaft - replaces Comp cams 232
Russ's 1.65 Harland rockers- replaces Harland stud rocker

Sounds like a nice setup. Russ swears he's not a salesman, but the rods/ pistons sure seem like a no brainier after he explains it all. What are you doing for valve springs. That's the biggest regret from my recent engine build so far is not doing a bigger cam. The wife was on me about the money and time and I couldn't see adding another lump of money for the cam, springs, spring pocket work, etc, while staying married. My engine still pulls good but it falls a little flat once it gets into the 4500rpm range with my stock cam.

Russ's is including springs with the Edelbrock head. Im not sure what kind, but I'm not worried.

I wouldn't be worried either.

A few of the items which I'm not sure about re-using:
- sensors
-water pump
-misc bolts

Anybody has thoughts on those?

1. You can reuse all your original sensors.
2. Definitely best to get a new water pump. I've had good experiences with the Flowkooler.
3. You can reuse most of your original bolts but get ARP head bolts and rod bolts.

Cheromaniac wrote: ↑August 4th, 2020, 9:08 pm 1. You can reuse all your original sensors.
2. Definitely best to get a new water pump. I've had good experiences with the Flowkooler.
3. You can reuse most of your original bolts but get ARP head bolts and rod bolts.

Thank goodness. I was fearing having to find the bolt specifications for every single one. The sensors also make things easier since I don't have to worry about as many compatibility issues.

I've heard good things about Flowkooler as well. Might do that or Mopar.

Any thoughts on the 24lb Accel injectors? is that enough for a 4.7?
Same question for the sparks.

They should be fine.

Can't believe I got that right!

Why such a big heavy transmission for a relatively mild motor with not huge tires?

My dad put that in when he was in college. It was really good at the time, and he planned to put a V8 in.