Jeep Strokers

I'm in the middle of a tear down on my 2000 XJ my original plan was just to reseal with new gaskets, timing, and a clearwater head and put her back in until it died (currently 138K miles). However I was able to get a 4.2L crank (casting# 3214723) for $50 dollars locally on marketplace and I figured I would be dumb to pass that up. I'm looking for some suggestions to stay within budget I figure if i spend anymore than $2500 I could at that point basically just buy a titan stroker kit straight out.

Following the machine work FAQ post = $1095 in machine cost (seems like a lot for machine work)

Block:
1. hot tank or oven bake. (cleaning) $75 to clean, shot blast, and mag block
2. shot blast.
3. magnaflux. (check for cracks)
4. line hone the main bearing bores if needed. (I would recommend this for bearing clearance) $150
5. bore and hone to desired size. (I.E. over .030) $250
6. check deck for flatness if not milling, if milling tell them how much. (I.E. have .030 decked off.) $75
7. Install cam bearings. $25-$30
Crankshaft:
1. hot tank or oven bake if dirty. $25
2. grind mains and rods to desired size, or offset grind if desired. $125
2a. Chamfer oil holes if desired. (better oiling) $25
3. spin balance. (optional) $50
Connecting Rods:
1. hot tank or oven bake if dirty. $25
2. shot peen if desired. (for strength) $30
3. check for straightness. $15
4. install rod bolts if desired. $25
5. resize bearing journals. $125
6. weight balance. $20
7. install pistons. $50

The for remainder parts

clearwarter head - $600
Gasket set - $100
Pistons - $400
258 crank - $50

So Im already at $2195 here without bearings, oil pump, freeze plugs, timing chain, camshaft. I'm starting to think https://titanengines.com/jeep-strokers/ ... o-4-6-4-7/ this kit seems like a really good value and maybe I should just sell off the crank I bought.

Also questions on heads does a standard head work just fine with a stroker or does it need different valves, porting, etc? Basically if I bought a clearwater head can I just slap it on the stroker and go? I also have the 12 port bosch injectors from K suspension would those be able to be used or would I need even more flow?

Any guidance on why I should or shouldn't use the titan kit or where I can save some money on this would be appreciated... I thought when I found the crank so cheap I was ahead of the game but it doesn't really look like it.

To follow up on what I want from this build. I'm not looking for crazy power the majority of the time it will just be driven around town. I just want more responsive power, better hill performance, reliability is KEY if I can't expect to have the same bullet proof motor I might just scrap the stroker idea. I don't care to much about 87 octane if I have to run premium it won't kill me. It also has to make sense budget wise.. I see these 6-8k stroker motors and couldn't imagine not doing an LS swap for that. The appeal for the stroker is less work and $ to get it to going since it's a direct drop in.

If you have a good machine shop, I would recommend building your own. It appears that the crate motors have as many issues as building your own. But, at least you will know what you have when you are finished. One of the reasons why I decided to build my own is that I have more control over camshaft selection and final compression ratio. Thus giving me the ability to build my engine to suit my needs for fuel. I'm aiming for the ability to run regular fuel. I live in southern California so trips to Baja are not out of the question. I don't want a high strung engine that is picky about fuel. I want to be able to buy fuel anywhere without the need for additives. I hope this is helpful in your decision making.

That's one of my biggest concern is the machine shop I've never used any around here since moving here two years ago. None of them have a whole lot of reviews so It's hard to say. I feel like I would need very detailed instructions on what I want to have done to supply them but I'm not sure WHAT I need to get done to make this the most reliable drop in possible.

I'm in the middle of doing my 4.7 stroker on my 2000xj. I tried to pinch some pennies here and there, but like most people will tell you... Call Russ Pottinger and you'll probably be 6s with what you were planning on spending and you'll have better parts. I went with his forged pistons and upgraded rods. Russ knows his stuff and is very helpful and his prices are fair.

I planned a mild build with a 4.2 crank, hyper pistons, and factory rods. Every upgrade I did above that should (should) make it a stronger engine overall.

Random questions I have this MAHLE gasket set that I basically got for free from a part out and the guy no longer needed them. The box hasn't even been opened. Will I regret not using FELPRO? would save me another $100 bucks or so.

No. Mahle- crevice is good stuff. Over a 20 year career in the automotive industry i have experienced better results with the mahle or cosmetic parts than fel-pro. Fel-pro seems to be inconsistent with fitment and quality.

Tango34, I strongly recommend that you contact Russ Pottenger and discuss a build plan with him. He can supply you with many of the necessary parts (rods, pistons, timing set, camshaft, valve springs) to build your stroker. Buying rods/pistons from him will also save you the cost of reconditioning used rods and milling the block deck.

I meant to say clevite. Not crevice. And cometic. Not cosmetic. Lol.

Bertismyname wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2020, 7:41 am I meant to say clevite. Not crevice. And cometic. Not cosmetic. Lol.

We knew what you meant.