Jeep Strokers

I'm looking for a new header for my 1997 TJ 4.0 m/t because my 505 Performace SS Header cracked for the second time (2 years and 2/3.000 miles )
Currently, what is the best manifold on the market for performance and strength ?
My engine is light modified (BBK 62mm tb, magnaflow hiflow cat, borla catback,little head work, Cold air intake), but one day I will do the mild 4.7 stroker with the head porting ad LS valve (or Edelbrock head), so I would like a definitive manifold.

thanks

I've gone through several including a Borla, eBay, and my current Doug Thorley. I think the Doug Thorley is by far the stoutest and least likely to crack. It has fairly small collectors though so I wouldn't put it at the top of the list for flow. If you are willing to modify it, could be a good option.

And yet another instance of 505 performance sucking. Did they at least have good customer service when dealing with you?

I had a Borla header on my Jeep for 20 years before I sold it on, and it still looked and performed great. The original collector was only 2.25" diameter and I had it enlarged to 3" after I'd built the stroker.
Borla is expensive but their quality is top notch and they use 304 stainless steel which will never rust.

Cheromaniac wrote: ↑June 11th, 2020, 9:43 am I had a Borla header on my Jeep for 20 years before I sold it on, and it still looked and performed great. The original collector was only 2.25" diameter and I had it enlarged to 3" after I'd built the stroker.
Borla is expensive but their quality is top notch and they use 304 stainless steel which will never rust.

Looks nice, but might not be available anymore.

https://www.borla.com/products/xj_chero ... 17039.html

SkylinesSuck wrote: ↑June 11th, 2020, 6:24 am And yet another instance of 505 performance sucking. Did they at least have good customer service when dealing with you?

NO.

What about Banks, Gibson, Pacesetter, bbk or other?

No experience there, sorry.

Is anyone running a flex joint between the header and head pipe? Also any way of bracing at collector flange to help support the header?

I still have my Borla 17039 after 15 years(found the original papers that came with it when moving the other day). I have a never used Clifford with a single 2.5” outlet that I cut off and have a 3” v-band to weld on. You need Brown-Dog, M.O.R.E. Bomb-proof, or Stinky Fab engine mounts if you keep cracking the headers.

gradon wrote: ↑June 16th, 2020, 7:48 am You need Brown-Dog, M.O.R.E. Bomb-proof, or Stinky Fab engine mounts if you keep cracking the headers.

ok, I'll buy them now!

I've found an OBX (p/n 501-3704-9) 6-1 header long tube on ebay:
Made of 304-Grade Stainless Steel- Primary Tube: 1-5/8" OD (41.26mm) - Collector Outlet: 2-3/4" OD (69,85mm) - Flange Thickness: 3/8" (9,53mm) - Runner Wall Thickness: 16 Gauge Mirror Polish Finish
Expensive, but one of the few whith equal long primary tube.
i'm vert confused. Long tube or short tube for offroad and DD use? I like low and mid range torque..

I also like dougthorley headers HDX-634Y.
Material: T304 Stainless Steel - Finish: Silver Ceramic Coated - Primary Tube Diameter: 1-1/2" (38mm) -Primary Tube Gauge: 14 Gauge - Collector Diameter: 2-1/2" (63,5mm )- Flange Thickness: 1/2" (12.5mm) - but on dougthorley's site in out of stock

Performance-wise you're splitting hairs when comparing aftermarket headers for our I6 Jeeps. I like the look of that OBX header and it's a tempting buy. One thing to consider is the amount of clearance between the front driveshaft and the oil pan rail for the collector. Space there is pretty tight and if you have a suspension lift, that could become problematic.