Exos's build

[SilverXJ]

Make sure that you have some way of holding the valves in the head... either air in the cylinder of something like a rope.

[Exos]

Make sure that you have some way of holding the valves in the head... either air in the cylinder of something like a rope.

Thanks for the heads up. I might would have missed it.

I'll try to close the engine, timing cover, oil pan, water pump and install the roller rockers.

Done, done, done and done. Tomorrow, maybe, some welding for the headers.

[SilverXJ]

Thanks for the heads up. I might would have missed it.

It would have been really bad if a valve fell into the combustion chamber.

[Exos]

Ok, here's some updates and pics :

The putting back the dampers thing :



My header. The last part at the bottom I cut and welded in place of the original pipe which was 2.125". It's now 2.5":



A closer look :



Old part VS new. Note that I still have to weld a 90 degrees pipe and an O2 bung :



My workplace :



My toolbox :



Another vehicle I'll be changing the engine in :



And that's it for now. The timing cover, balancer and water pump are installed too.

[Exos]

I'm confused about my header : Look at the header pic, on the #5 primary tube. There's of big port with threads there, which I'm not sure about. I have 2 O2 sensors on my Cherokee, to my knowledge. One after the cat, and one after the manifold. The pacesetter header has the 02 bung after the collector, same place as stock. So, what's this one for?

[Exos]

No idea? No one? I've cheched the threads, and it's way bigger than O2 sensor threads. May have something to do with "warm up precat" Pacesetter has to models for a 98 Cherokee, one w/o precat, and one with. I bought with, not really knowing. If I don't need it, I'll have to find a way to block it.

On another subject, about my head studs : The washers I installed are bugging me. Somebody suggested using hardened sleeve spacers, but I have no idea where to find those. I taught of another option:

Remove all the too long studs, and rethread them (top) about 1/2" more

Is this a good idea?

[lazybaka]

it's most likey for a egr valve tube,you can plug it if you dont have one.
Why not route the exhaust straight out the back rather then the 90's ?

[Exos]

it's most likey for a egr valve tube,you can plug it if you dont have one.
Why not route the exhaust straight out the back rather then the 90's ?

I'm connecting the header to the existing exhaust system. I will change the cat and muffler, but I keep the existing pipes after the down pipe.

[Exos]

You're right, looks like it's an EGR hookup. I'll crawl under the Jeep tomorrow to see if I have one, but I don't think so. If I don't, I wonder what size thread it is, so I can plug it instead of weld it shut.

And about my head studs: After some taughts, I think my first idea was the best. Those are mil specs AN960 aviation washers, and I think they will hold up. I risk messing something up if I play with those studs more.

[Exos]

I changed my mind again. Instead of using those AN960 washers, wich are not hardened to my knowledge, I ordered some Mopar hardened head bolt/studs washers. Part # P4120459. I think it's a good compromise between the correct lenght studs and AN960 washers. What do you think? And if anyone knows the correct thread size for the EGR hookup, that would be very helpful.

[SilverXJ]

If you are talking baout the washers on your head bolts then I would go with hardened washers. If you do remoev teh torque on the bolts, remove the troque on all the bolts in the reverse of the pattern they are torqued down in.

[Exos]

Yet another problem. My head studs (ARP Chevy studs) don't clear my new valve cover. Valve cover is made of 2 aluminium covers, and is 5/8" taller. It was made for me, as I don't weld aluminium and never found steel covers.

In fact, only one stud is problematic. If I was to seat the valve cover on the head, this stud would be outside the cover... So I am faced with 3 new scenarios :

1- I remove my steel cover currently in my XJ and check it against the stud. If it clears, I find another steel cover, cut both and weld back. Time and money.

2- I ditch my ARP studs and order a new set of OEM head bolts. Time and money and I don't get to use studs for the head.

3- I cut the offending stud, below valve cover base. This would still leave me with at least 3 or 4 threads above nut, if not more. Quick and free. But would the stud be weakened in any way?

[SilverXJ]

Man.. those studs sure are problematic.

#3 sounds reasonable. 3 or 4 threads would be fine. I would just be concerned about the heat generated in the cutting action on the bolt. Cut as high as possible and do it over a while. I.e. I wouldn't do one single cut as to not pass head through the stud.

[Exos]

I made one mistake in previous post : they are not Chevy studs, but AMC 258 studs.

Anywho, I got tired of messing with valve covers and just ordered an Hesco spacer for cover and one for thermostat. I'll be using a brand new steel cover. I checked mine currently in my XJ, and the studs should not be a problem. I think I even cut one for nothing, but I'm confident it's still good. I also ordered the complete hardware set for valve cover (bolts, studs, sleeves and grommets). So hopefully, problem solved.

I'll be finishing my down pipe tomorrow, and installing a block heater. I have to wait for my hardened head stud washers to continue the rest. Should have them next week.

Engine swap is scheduled between Christmas and New Year. I've chosen straight SAE 30 weight without detergents for break-in, with a bottle of GM EOS. And trying to find some Valvoline VR1 for the first oil change.

[1BADMUDR]

I like your header. I see only one option on pacesetters website, but you said there was a choice for the cat preheater?

what part number is that header?