Jeep Strokers

So I have been trying to research as much as I can. So far my budget build is based as tightly as I can to the Poor Mans Build. This is going into a stock 2001 cherokee

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
KB424c.030 27.5cc Dish (the dish is worse than a d because of detonation )
CAM Stock 01 OEM
DIY Port and Polish 57CC Cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043 Gasket
Deck Clearance .003-.007
Injectors Bosch 12 pintle 0280156161 22.8lbs @43.5 lbs
Exhaust Stainless steel shorty style headers
62mm throttle body

Should I get a cam shaft? It seems that the budget build doesnt "Need" it. Im trying to make this Bullet Proof and avoid staring at a CEL.

I found Info about other Keith Black pistons just havent seen any info on these ones yet. Hoping to keep price down. I know that i cannot get everything i want buy not spending money.

I would do at least a mild cam. I had the largest cam Comp made on a stick ecu and it didn't throw a code, so that's not an issue.

Get a set of custom pistons from Russ Pottenger that'll give you a tight quench and a CR of ~9.5:1.
The poor man's build doesn't "need" the stock cam. The idea is that you simply reuse your old one to save yourself some money. However by now, most will have racked up over 100k miles so it's probably better to replace it, and Russ can offer you a lightly modified CompCams 68-232-4 cam that'll work with the stock valve springs.

Financially I need to be based around the price point of the Poor Mans Stroker.

If I get pistons and rods from russ im adding 600 to my total over all parts build. I get having a tight quench but I was going to have my block decked anyways due to what is my perception of a previous owners battle with overheating. My factory head came back fine.

I have been talking to russ, he is a wealth of information.

With the factory cam im at 9.02:1 static and 7.79:1 dynamic

If I use the 68-232-4 Im At 7.74:1 dynamic

If I use russ' grind i jump to 8.56:1 if im using the calculator correctly and a IVCA of 33* unsure if that is correct. pardon my ignorance.

Is the nitride coating a necessity? If I Use proper cam break-in shouldnt that be okay. I have heard of cam lobes being wiped out but would the coating prevent that completely, or does it just mitigate it some what?

Also lastly besides arp rod bolts and new head bolts, should I be looking at any other valve train component replacement? springs, keepers, push rods, valves? (again trying to be frugal)

Thanks Jeep Strokers.