Jeep Strokers

So I just got my 4.7 stroker installed. It was blueprinted and part sourced/machine worked from Russ Potenger. I assembled and installed it myself and it fired right up. After it entered closed loop it started stumbling and I got a CEL. Bank 1 sensor 1 low O2.. changed the sensor.. That fixed it. I broke the cam in properly ( 2000-2500 rpm for 30 minutes) then changed the oil to Penzoil zr1 racing with zddp additive. Then I put 500 street/highway miles to break it in further. At 300 miles I received another CEL. TPS over voltage. I cleared it and it never returned.While breaking it in I noticed surging. No RPM stumble or anything. It feels like I'm hitting a strong head wind, a bit of a grumble and then a blurp out the exhaust. This usually happens around 2300-2400 rpm not under a load and at a slight release of the throttle.
The engine is blueprinted at 345 HP. It isn't 345 by any means. Its a 97 Jeep TJ 4.5 inch lift, 9 inch rear stretch, coil overs, winch, 4.3 atlas, ax15 , dana 44's 4.88 gears, triangulated rear suspension, fuel cell, hydro assist steering and on the street its running 35" tires. HP feels around 230.
I made an appointment for a high performance tune/dyno shop to throw it on the dyno and to get a ecu tune next week. They are charging me 750.00 for the service.
Does anyone have experience with a tune? I mean a real tune. Not a chip... This place does hot rods from old school to modern lambo's, trophy trucks,, you name it. I'm hoping that they know their stuff with a tractor engine like a built 4.0. Is 750 steep for a dyno tune?

I am having a similar cruising issue on my turbo set up. I thought it was because of my injector response time setting on my FIC. It only occurs when cruising with light throttle in a high gear. It holds the jeep back for a second the let's it go and keeps cycling in and out of this cyclically. If I accelerate in N/a or boost it clears up. I just need a day to throw the stock injector in and bypass the box if it goes away I will be able to skinny it down to the injectors or something FIC related. What injectors are you running?

A side note I had a 95 Cherokee L6 that someone had switched the inj plug 1 and 2. It would shudder and misfire only at 50mph or greater in od lock up. As soon as it was WOT it would perform as usual.

24 . The way you described it is dead on..

I would recommend installing a wideband near the stock o2 sensor. It will help you visualize fuel/tuning issues in real time.

Look for Chris Jensen or Flying Ryan on here.

Just FYI a motor isn't "blueprinted" to a certain hp figure. Blueprinting just means everything has been measured, probably balanced, and is generally just checked to make sure everything is within spec. And you are unlikely to crack 300hp on any n/a stroker barring some serious work and lots of revs.

Adjusting the injector response time helped the issue quite a bit. Increasing the original value of appx 500ms to the current setting of appx 1200ms it has almost entirely cleared up.

A little update:

I took my jeep to the Tune Shop and had a custom tune and dyno'd.. I picked up an extra 69 hp from the tune and all issues are gone. No hesitation, no stumble, runs at perfect temps. I have about 2000 miles on it so far and it's running like a champ. It dyno'd at 220 at the wheel which with about a 30% parasitic loss ( so it's said) = about 320 +- hp at the crank. With that said, my jeep weighs 3750 lbs, has 37" mud terrains, real beadlocks, and 4.88 gearing. It's no street jeep. Its a crawler.
I have taken it out in the rocks 2x now and last weekend was in the sand dunes/waterfall climbs. On the dunes in 4 low 4th gear (Atlas 4.3) it climbed and never let up where as before I'd find myself stumbling through gears and ending up stuck near the top of the dune. I'm very happy with the results. If however I was to do it all over again from scratch, it would be a V8... especially since it'll soon have a 05 Ford SuperDuty Dana 60 front end and a Sterling 10.5 rear on 40's.

Glad it's running well! 30% is crazy talk though. 20% is much more realistic.

With 135 lbs of wheel at ea corner Im thinking 30 %. I bet if I had thrown on some 32's I would of done much better.

Bad ass looking rig. What bumpers are those?

The SD60 is indeed a stout piece but make sure its what you really want/need before diving in. The tradeoffs with width and steering make to a not a good choice for a street friendly ride.

The Metric bolt pattern limits the available wheels with decent offset so your scrub radius doesn't go to hell. Good luck with the TR and the diff cover.

The sterling has an offset pinion so your DS will never be straight on.

I've done several of these on both JK/TJ`s and they wouldn't be my first choice.

The front bumper was a Savvy... Overpriced aluminum sheet metal if you ask me.. Bent it to hell on the first rock it saw. Have since moved back to steel. Rear is a Rockmen flush mount bumper. You have to notch out your stock bumper/frame tie in to get it to work and also slides into your rear body mounts. Strong as heck.

The front will be the Dana SD 60.. I already have all the brackets cut down for the Artec truss, Will be a 3 link with mid arm, ARB, 16" coil overs a 3" stretch. She's no longer street-able due to many mods so I'm not worried about drivability as she's a trailer queen now. Rear end I am indecisive. Since going with a 14 bolt would be ideal, (and there's one laying in my yard) it wouldn't have a matching wheel pattern.I could always have two wheel patterns since I run bead locks and if a tire got wasted on the trail I could just switch tires onto that rim. . Also plan to have Ballistic Fab do the shave kit for the 10.5, turn the ring gear, Detroit and 5.38's. Not particularly worried about the ds being offset a little. Again it's a trail rig.

The wheel bearings can be redrilled to 8 x 6.5 if they are good shape. Or you can buy them new from Currie or Branik already drilled and studded. Plenty of other places sell with also.

Rotors are hub centric so the bores for the lugs can be simply opened up a tad to work with 8 x 6.5.

You will need a longer pitman arm to get any decent steering angle. Parts Mike is a good source for custom arms. Machine the knuckles for steering stops. Perhaps your going hydro than the pitman doesn't matter much.

If I was doing a 1 ton on a typical Jeep the SD would be one of the last choices if you wanted any decent street manners. It`s a number of compromises patched with band aids that don't stick well.