Jeep Strokers

So, I have been following the forum for a while and now started collecting the parts for my build.

I will have a lot of questions as i am on the old continent and everything will have to be shipped over and taxed with something like +25% on the purchase price...

I have a really nicely running 2000 TJ with famous 0331 head casting. No problems so far, with 136.000km on the clock, but some day....

I am about to collect junkyard 1994 engine from WJ in next days - HO version.

I have read that 1994 and 2000 blocks have some differences for brackets and mounts. How much problems can I expect?

Than I was looking at Cleggs kit and it seems nice to me - stage 1.

Alternatively - sourcing parts in different sets and stores. Minly I would focus on RockAuto as it offers most reasonable shipping apart from others (Cleggs, Summit)

THe core component is of course the crank.

Rock offers two options, both reman, 430$ price tag, Advertised as:
ENGINETECH 251700 Includes Connecting Rod Bearings & Crankshaft Main Bearings; Reman Info
w/ centering ring on back of flywheel flange. 2-1/2" neck length. Engines w/ "V" type belts. Includes bearings. Forging # RD67703, 3214723, 3235477. Check for proper physical match before installation. (Only 2 Remaining)

On the other hand - Cleggs balanced kit is 1.150$ (core charge for rods, balancing, molly rings, assembly lube). By your experiance - would you recommend going selected kit?

So gor start - any help on oppinion on block selection (1994 or source a 2000 block (really hard for me over here...) would be great.

Thank you Jeepers

Just got feedback from a guy that pulled a nicely preserved 1995 engine from a WJ.

In our county gas is expensive, and we only get to get 95+ grade 98 is usual, also 100 available on daily basis So mostly 4.0 were not economical to run and more or less low mileage on them.

Any one with good experience with RockAuto reman cranks?

This 12 cw crank good for my build?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jee ... shaft,5292

BR M

Hi TJryder,

I'm a warehouse distributor for Scat.
$430.00 will get you a new 3.895 crankshaft with the correct 2.000 snout rather than the more common 2.500 length snout found on the earlier 4.2/258 crankshafts that will require an additional expense of a spacer.

I also carry a full line of custom 4032 forged pistons along with a economically priced forged connecting rod that is fully profiled and bushed allowing for a full floating wrist pin.
If you purchase my connecting rods with my Pistons I'll upgrade the wrist pin to a much lighter and stronger .927 Chevy pin at no additional cost.

Feel free to shoot me a call and I'd be happy to forward you information on this and the rest of my products and services.

Thanks,
Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]

Just wanted to let you know 1995 is a zj a 99-04 is a wj there are some difference in the block from each other.

6sense wrote: ↑August 11th, 2018, 4:33 am Just wanted to let you know 1995 is a zj a 99-04 is a wj there are some difference in the block from each other.

Hi!

Yes , I learned that later.... From Graz, Austria...

I am now stripping / cleaning the donor engine.

I am running into a dilemma now...

Basically I wanted to build the engine and do an "over the winter" swap, but would not like to run into major fab work while the engine would be dangling on a hoist....

Small brackets and similar mods are not an issue for me.

BR M

Russ Pottenger wrote: ↑August 9th, 2018, 12:02 pm Hi TJryder,

I'm a warehouse distributor for Scat.
$430.00 will get you a new 3.895 crankshaft with the correct 2.000 snout rather than the more common 2.500 length snout found on the earlier 4.2/258 crankshafts that will require an additional expense of a spacer.

I also carry a full line of custom 4032 forged pistons along with a economically priced forged connecting rod that is fully profiled and bushed allowing for a full floating wrist pin.
If you purchase my connecting rods with my Pistons I'll upgrade the wrist pin to a much lighter and stronger .927 Chevy pin at no additional cost.

Feel free to shoot me a call and I'd be happy to forward you information on this and the rest of my products and services.

Thanks,
Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]

Hi Ross,

Thank you for your offer. FOr sure I will contact you.

I just run in to thinking to just swap the head and cam. For a start.

Maybe the full stroker when I get my hands on a same casting number block.

By the way - Banks headers - are they really torque enhancers?
https://shop.bankspower.com/i-788-51306 ... rokee.html

BR M

Russ Pottenger wrote: ↑August 9th, 2018, 12:02 pm $430.00 will get you a new 3.895 crankshaft with the correct 2.000 snout rather than the more common 2.500 length snout found on the earlier 4.2/258 crankshafts that will require an additional expense of a spacer.

Hi Ross,

Just went to RockA and placed a 78 Cj7 crank in my cart:
426$ price
544$ delivered (with tax and import duty of 22%)

Sounds almost like free shipping to me in the end (20$ shippong cost)

But for sure - new crank with matching bearing beat that all day long...

BR M

Slowly but surely:
- 2x 7120 head - will use a better one, one will replace the dodgy 0331 on non stroked engine..
- 56 TBI from ebay
- 12 hole injectors
- some material for regear (31's and will go to 4.10)
- still looking for a busted 4.0 1999+ engine or block locally. Anyone ? Northern Italy, Austria, Hungary, Croatia?

Hi,

I have an opportunity to lay hands on 2002 TJ engine with only 40.000 miles on it.
The poor thing was rolled over and totalled.

I am now wondering if I may get out without block machinning phase as thete will be hardly any wear on the cylinders.

What would you guys propose?

I can build you a standard bore piston with a compression distance (CD) of 1.385
That would give you a slight positive deck without having to machine the deck at the block.

If you have a good local machine shop, my recommendation would be to have me build you a piston in the standard bore range, let’s say 3.878 That way you could hone your block a few thousands with a .005 file fit ring package and your back to the proper piston to cylinder wall tolerance with a minimal up cost

My .02

Thanks Russ, we will be in touch after I have my second donor engine at home, stripped, cleaned and measured.

Just to share some photos of my progress so far:

Pulled first engine from a wrecked jeep:


Catalyst for disaster was still there:


Engine out, unfortunatley later discovered that will not be fully compatibile with 1999 + TJ:




I went looking for another engine and came across nice 07120 head that I have cleaned and getting it ready for machining / valve train rebuild:

Yesterday I spent my day in the shop with donor for 68mm bore TB, to be adapted to TJ bore pattern, basically following Martinbuilt videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsHrXYAcS4o

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeASlDAkmdc

I made a shortcut on porting side - just used my lathe and came clear to 68.00mm without a problem:

Donor:


Starting from the bump of 65mm on a lathe. Rear side is concentric and just need to propperly grab it and slowly turn it out to 68mm:






Boring was spot on with cylindrical bottom side, without a step, before touching the shaft or existing flap contact surface!

I also threw in a small taper:


And a slight buttonup with 1.000 grip paper:

I very much want to see the pics, but they no worky for me

SkylinesSuck wrote: ↑November 1st, 2018, 8:04 am I very much want to see the pics, but they no worky for me

Strange, I see them.

do you see this:
BR M