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Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 9:05 am
by go4lo
I posted this over on JU but others recommended I come to this board.

I know this has been covered many times but there are so many different versions and combinations out there that it's confusing. I'm trying to put together a finalized list/cost for a 4.5L "Poor Man's" simple stroker like Dino's for my 2000 TJ before I begin ordering parts.

My goal is to build a reliable 4.5 or 4.6L on a $2000 or less. I still want to be able to run pump gas, 89 would be great but I'm fine with 93 if the CR ends up that high. The jeep is not a DD so the higher octane will be fine.

This is what I've got so far, please help me correct/add too or take away parts:

2000 TJ 4.0L w/99K, Cracked 0331 Head(that is what started this idea)

Plan:
MachineShop-Bore.20/Hone/PresCamBearings/PresPistons/FreezePlugs ~ $200
258 crank/rods/Rod/main/cam bearings - $200 - O'Reilly Auto Parts
ARP rod bolts - Best Place?
Sealed Power 677CP pistons with matching rings - $145 - Summit
New stock timing set - $96 - O'Reilly
New stock oil pump - $70 - O'Reilly
All Gaskets - $100 - O'Reilly
Harmonic balancer - $45 - O'Reilly
Freeze plugs - $15 - O'Reilly
New lifters (reuse old cam) - $55 - O'Reilly
New 0331 Head - $500 - Alabama Cylinder Head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket - Best Place?
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head - $25 - Summit DIY Kit
Rugged Ridge 2000+TJ Header - $250 - 4wheelers supply
AEM Brute Force Intake - $250 - Summit
62MM Throttle Body - Needed?
Stock 4.0L Cam - Free or Crane?
Stock 4.0L Injectors - Free or 24lb?

Total Cost - $1925.00

Again, I'm relatively new at this so please correct any missing or wrong info.
My top concerns are:
Should I Bore .02 or .03?
Should I buy another 0331 Head or find an older casting from another HO4.0?
- IF - Using a head from an older 4.0L will my O2 sensors work properly with pre-2000 header? Also I would need to fab coil pack mounts.
Can I reuse my 4.0LHO Cam?
Can I reuse my 4.0L Injectors?
Do I need a 62MM Throttle Body or can my OEM Body be bored?

Thanks for any help!

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 9:16 am
by Itrium
Hey take a look at my thread and silverxj (in his sig). It's a good place to start. I'm sorry I'm not specifically answering your questions (as I can't), but those threads have already gotten me going.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 9:28 am
by dwg86
Just a couple of things from your list...
I would buy a JP or Rollmaster timing set(ebay for around $100.00). I wouldn't pay $96.00 for a stock timing set.

The 0331 heads are known for cracking. I think Chrysler made some changes to fix the cracking problem, but how would you know what 0331 head you were getting? So i would get a 7120 or 0630 head.

The 258 crankshaft kit bearings won't work in the 4.0 block. The rod bearings are the same, but the mains are different. So see if you can get just the crank without any bearings, or see if they will swap out the mains. Or see if you can locate a crank and have it ground at your machine shop.

You are also going to need a set of 258 connecting rods. I didn't see that listed in you parts.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 10:02 am
by go4lo
dwg86 wrote:Just a couple of things from your list...
I would buy a JP or Rollmaster timing set(ebay for around $100.00). I wouldn't pay $96.00 for a stock timing set.

The 0331 heads are known for cracking. I think Chrysler made some changes to fix the cracking problem, but how would you know what 0331 head you were getting? So i would get a 7120 or 0630 head.

The 258 crankshaft kit bearings won't work in the 4.0 block. The rod bearings are the same, but the mains are different. So see if you can get just the crank without any bearings, or see if they will swap out the mains. Or see if you can locate a crank and have it ground at your machine shop.

You are also going to need a set of 258 connecting rods. I didn't see that listed in you parts.
Thanks for the tip on the timing set.

Regarding the 0331 head, the one that Alabama Cylinder Head sells is supposed to be a heavy duty/thicker casting to eliminate the cracking problem, that is why it is listed as an option. I definately wouldn't get another OEM 0331 head.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 10:45 am
by SilverXJ
I haven't heard anything bad about the Alabama Cylinder head 0331, but it hasn't been out that long. They did say that they strengthened the head where it is prone to cracking. As said above go with a dual roller. Cloyes, Rollmaster or JP Performance. However, JP is billet and costs less than Cloyes. I purchased most of my parts from and ebay vendor, Falcon. Good prices and good to deal with. They have the ARP bolts as well.

Also, there is a thread on here (IIRC, the Performance forum) that is asking for details on your 0331 head. All you need to do it take some pics of the head and post them. We are gathering information to see if we can determine which ones fail, or at least the year break. Edit: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=480

I got my 63mm throttle body from http://www.strokedjeep.com/ Good guy to deal with. Also, if you want to dish your pistons (to keep the cr low) talk to oleshot on here.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 12:49 pm
by SilverXJ
As for the head gasket you can get one at the dealer or Carquest may be able to get the VR version of it. Search on here as there is a new part number for it. For your air intake take a look at what Banks has to offer.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 22nd, 2008, 12:58 pm
by go4lo
SilverXJ wrote:As for the head gasket you can get one at the dealer or Carquest may be able to get the VR version of it. Search on here as there is a new part number for it. For your air intake take a look at what Banks has to offer.
thanks for the help.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 23rd, 2008, 9:05 pm
by seanyb505
I got my ARP rod bolts from fastengineparts.com for 45 shipped. You dont need the 62mm throttle body, but it would help. Im not running one as I havent had time or $ to get it done. x2 on Falcon, they let you order a'la carte so you can get just the parts you need. I did a bit of shopping before I bought anything, if you check out my thread you can see where I got a lot of stuff.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 24th, 2008, 2:06 pm
by Cheromaniac
Gave you my reply in JU:

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... p?t=919288

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 30th, 2008, 10:59 am
by go4lo
I've been out of the loop for the last week traveling. Just a few updates and questions:

New 0331 Head from Alabama Cylinder Head is on order - $530 shipped, should have it tomorrow.
Machine shop/friend quoted me $350 to bore/hone/wash and assemble the short block with all my supplied parts

Questions:
Following Dino's Poor Man's build can someone(or Dino) explain why the Sealed Power 677CP pistons are used instead of the H802CP/H825CP?
It's hard to find the 677CPs - anyone know of a good source?

Can I use use 4.0 crankshaft main bearings on the 4.2 crank? If so I assume the correct plan of action would be to order the reman 4.2 crank and have the machinist tell me what bore size 4.0 bearings to order?

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 30th, 2008, 11:35 am
by dwg86
go4lo wrote:I've been out of the loop for the last week traveling. Just a few updates and questions:

New 0331 Head from Alabama Cylinder Head is on order - $530 shipped, should have it tomorrow.
Machine shop/friend quoted me $350 to bore/hone/wash and assemble the short block with all my supplied parts

Questions:
Following Dino's Poor Man's build can someone(or Dino) explain why the Sealed Power 677CP pistons are used instead of the H802CP/H825CP?
It's hard to find the 677CPs - anyone know of a good source?

Can I use use 4.0 crankshaft main bearings on the 4.2 crank? If so I assume the correct plan of action would be to order the reman 4.2 crank and have the machinist tell me what bore size 4.0 bearings to order?

Yes the 4.0 bearings will fit the 4.2 crank.

I can olny speculate on why the 677cp's are used. The 677cp is a cast piston. I think the 677cp dish can be milled more to lower compression because the head is thicker. The H802CP/H825CP are hypereutectic coated pistons. They can be milled, but not as much as the 677cp. The H802CP/H825CP has a taller compression height(1.592) as comparred to the 677cp(1.585). You wouldn't have to deck the block as much using the H802CP/H825CP pistons to obtain a better quench, but the compession would be higher because of the 1.592 compression distance.

If you are going to have your pistons milled send oletshot a PM. He does great work with a fast turn time...also can't beat the price.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 30th, 2008, 11:39 am
by go4lo
dwg86 wrote:
go4lo wrote:I've been out of the loop for the last week traveling. Just a few updates and questions:

New 0331 Head from Alabama Cylinder Head is on order - $530 shipped, should have it tomorrow.
Machine shop/friend quoted me $350 to bore/hone/wash and assemble the short block with all my supplied parts

Questions:
Following Dino's Poor Man's build can someone(or Dino) explain why the Sealed Power 677CP pistons are used instead of the H802CP/H825CP?
It's hard to find the 677CPs - anyone know of a good source?

Can I use use 4.0 crankshaft main bearings on the 4.2 crank? If so I assume the correct plan of action would be to order the reman 4.2 crank and have the machinist tell me what bore size 4.0 bearings to order?

Yes the 4.0 bearings will fit the 4.2 crank.

I can olny speculate on why the 677cp's are used. The 677cp is a cast piston. I think the 677cp dish can be milled more to lower compression because the head is thicker. The H802CP/H825CP are hypereutectic coated pistons. They can be milled, but not as much as the 677cp. The H802CP/H825CP has a taller compression height(1.592) as comparred to the 677cp(1.585). You wouldn't have to deck the block as much using the H802CP/H825CP pistons to obtain a better quench, but the compession would be higher because of the 1.592 compression distance.

If you are going to have your pistons milled send oletshot a PM. He does great work with a fast turn time...also can't beat the price.
That is what i'm thinking too. I want to keep the compression around 9.2 or less like Dino's build so that i can still run my stock HO Cam,Rockers,Springs, etc...I guess I should just stick with the 677cp's? anyone else?

Is this the correct set up even though my block is 2000 block and these are for 87-95? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Che ... QQtcZphoto

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 30th, 2008, 12:06 pm
by dwg86
Those should be the right ones. They may be packaged(or sold) by clevite or engine tech, but acually be made by silvolite and have the same dimensions as the 677cp. You could email the seller and ask who they are made by.

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 30th, 2008, 5:04 pm
by nick
The 96+ pistons are metric. You can use whichever one, just get the correct rings to go with them(Gradon using Nick's laptop).

Re: Finalizing Plans for Simple Stroker Build - Help

Posted: December 31st, 2008, 8:18 am
by go4lo
nick wrote:The 96+ pistons are metric. You can use whichever one, just get the correct rings to go with them(Gradon using Nick's laptop).
sorry for the dumb question, but are the rings matched to the pistons or to the cylinder walls? i.e. - if i get the 677cp pistons with rings in the ebay auction which are for 87-95 block can I use those rings in my 2000 block or do i need to get different rings?

also - anyone know of a good source for the 3214723 crankshafts? all of the parts stores list them but when it comes down to actually ordering them they can't get them. the only place i can find them is Atlanta Crankshaft Exchange for $331.00 shipped.