Here's the thing about street cams and the stroker, they're not being shipped out with a VAM 282/stroker in mind. So whenever you see listings for the 232, 258 and 4.0L they are made to be a good tune for the bigger engines and GREAT for the smaller ones. There is also the factor of carb/EFI going on with these engines so whatever you choose, it's fine to go a bit wild with the stock EFI system but if you're planning on doing boost, watch out for erratic behavior.
When you see the amount of duration, lift and timing going on, you want to make a comparative list of these cams to figure out what all will make this work best for you. My stroker is already finished but I did a manual swap to a really fluid T-5 with a tall .76 ratio and I'm already on an outrageously tall 2.72 gears with my Dana 30IFS/35. I also have the rare carrier for these diffs to bolt up 2.35 gears at Bonneville. In other words this was built with a dual purpose of attempting LSR at the flats and swapping gears out for street cruise. Comparatively, your Jeep is intended to behave like a small truck that needs an additional margin of power than mine puts out just to get up to speed and hold. So while I cruise between 1700-1900, you're going to be somewhere around 2600-3000 comfortable but still hit peak power much further on. It's kind of a toy. Since you have a non-OD manual and much bigger tires, I suggest you keep your 3.55 gears or drop to 3.73 for future-proofing and stick with stock valve springs unless you want to go with a strong cam that goes over .480 lift or anything that requires machining. Each cam has a range where it comes alive and you want the cam floor to be just off idle at the worst or just under your projected cruise RPM at the highest. Since your cruise speed is going to be high anyway, you're pretty much open season for big cams. Cam ceiling should always be the redline.
I went with a really mild Crower 44243 hydraulic cam featuring 194/
[email protected] duration and .437/.445 lift then retarded it 2º. At a glance, this is puny even compared to the stock 4.0L cam but I have my reasons for it. You will be in the market for BIGGER with mild overlap but will probably want a 2º retard setting like I did. There's a TON of available cams for these inline engines and I've had to contact so many people to get some cam details and still can't get them because all the data is so superfluous and clogged. Looking at what you have and what you're doing, I recommend any of these:
Crane Cams 753901:..............204/
[email protected] duration, .456/.484 lift, 42º overlap, 1200-4800 RPM
Competition Cams 68-235-4:....210/
[email protected] duration, .477/.493 lift, 36º overlap, 1000-5300 RPM
Crower Cams 44311:..............238/
[email protected] duration, .480/.486 lift, 60.5º overlap, 1800-4500 RPM
Lunati Cams 63500:...............208/
[email protected] duration, .484/.484 lift, 29º overlap, 1000-5200 RPM
Crane Cams 753941:..............216/
[email protected] duration, .484/.512 lift, 54º overlap, 1800-5400 RPM
Howards Cams 330991-08:.......221/
[email protected] duration, .501/.501 lift, unknown, 1800-5600 RPM
Crower Cams 44312:..............248/
[email protected] duration, .499/.512 lift, 75º overlap, 2000-6000 RPM
Schneider Cams 10054:...........224/
[email protected] duration, .496/.496 lift, unknown, 2600-6250 RPM