Jeep Strokers

I have searched and cannot find any information on Installing a wide band on a 4.6 with the twin mini-cats.
My 2001 XJ needs to pass the emissions inspections, so the mini-cats need to stay.
The wide band bungs need to be installed above the mini-cats and two are needed, since the computer spits the engine into 2 sets of 3 cylinders.
Mounting the bungs below the mini-cats will give false readings.
Question is where to mount them? I don't see space for them on either the stock exhaust manifold or a Banks header, things are tight in there.
Has any one done this and have the photos showing where to place the bungs.
I would hate to try tuning this engine with just the LT and ST readings.

Guess no one has done this before.
I hate being the first to do things, preferring to have someone else make the mistakes.

I think that 2 WB will need to be used in the minicat exhaust. For placement if the 2 extra sensors can you cut off the bung seal up the manifold then create 2 side by side staggered bungs?

The stroker is going to use the Banks header and late-model intake from my running XJ.
With the engine installed, the header is so out of the way and hidden, that I cannot see the area where the new bungs would need to be welded in.
http://www.bankspowerproducts.com/v/vsp ... 1306-2.jpg
Besides being hidden, the area already has two oxygen sensors. Until the engine is out, I'm not sure of what will work.

The other issue is not having a good spot for one additional dash gauge, much less two.
Need to contact AEM and find out if one gauge can be used with two sensors, utilizing a four pole, two position switch to toggle between the two sensors.

It looks like you can install the bungs right before the cats after the flange. From what I can see that would leave enough room. When you are done post how you did it. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to flip bank 1 wb to bank 2 with a switch on one gauge.

There is enough room to weld bungs on both sides of the Banks manifold.
There isn't room on the mini-cats for bungs.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/398 ... 069952879/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/250 ... 069952879/[url=https://flic.kr/p/E8XU4a]

The project continues.

To monitor both banks the engine, I bought an extra O2 sensor.
The sensor's plug cannot be cut, it contains calibrate resistor. I didn't feel like going through the process of finding and building a set of mating plugs, so it could be wired to a single-throw, 6-pole switch, another thing to buy, install and wire.
To check both banks, you manually to switch sensor plugs, it takes less than a minute.
It's not a perfect solution but it does provide the ability to compared the front bank to the rear bank.

Started driving it, after the cam break in, and soon saw it was running rich, the 26-lb injector appear to be too big for my application.
The AFR shows it going into closed mode quickly, the Ultra Gauge showed both banks pulling fuel out, the Long Term percentages running 10-12% negative.
After enough miles to feel comfortable checking the WOT reading, the AFR showed readings as low as a 10-1 ratio, way too rich.
The 26-lb injectors were switched out with a rebuilt set of Bosch 703s, rated at 24-lbs.
The effect was immediately noticeable, it accelerates better and the Long Term fuel percentages are low, averaging between 0-2.5%.

Never owning a AFR meter before, I was surprised to see how much ranging the meter shows..
When in closed loop. the meter bounces constantly between 14.3, up to 14.9, which, I assume, is cause by the PCM's constant switching from rich to lean and back again, keeping the catalytic converters in their happy place of 14.7 AFR.
I have not driven it at night yet, the constant digital read out flashing and the bouncing indicator dot maybe distracting.
http://www.aemelectronics.com/products/ ... -no-sensor