Jeep Strokers

Hi there, just joined the board in hopes of having a few of the seasoned veterans look over my planned build to see if ive got everything in place before I undertake this project. First off ill give the basic info and the needs and intended use of this vehicle.

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 290,000 miles, engine had in frame overhaul minus crank and cam at 249,000 miles due to broken piston skirt on #4. Crankshaft thrust surfaces were torn up but I didnt feel like pulling it ao I rolled in a new set of main bearings. Currently has about 1/8" of end play and the front oil slinger is eating into the front seal.
Has 0331 non "TUPY" head but is not cracked
245/75/16 Wrangler Authority tires on JK steel wheels
42RE with Class IV towing package, modified with an external transmission cooler.
242 Transfer case
Vari-lok axles front and rear
Its pretty heavy so any performance increase is welcome.

Im near sea level most of the time living in the Baltimore area but my wife is from Colorado and we do make trips back to her college town that's at 7,700 feet. Therefore here is what I've decided what I want out of this engine.

The stroker needs list:

-To be able to be used in elevation as well as sea level. 87 would be great since its found everywhere but I'm not opposed running midgrade exclusively if necessary. After driving my turbo car out west a few years back it was annoying to not be able to find 93 and only 91 beyond the middle of Texas.

- The more "off the shelf" parts I can retain the better. Nothing specialized outside of pistons, rods, or crank. On long distance trips I need to be able to access parts if necessary at any store. So no custom push rods or roller rockers.

- Be reliable.

- Be under $2,000 (to please my wife who is awesome for letting me do this)

That's pretty much it, I don't care about fuel economy as long as it gets at least 250-300 miles to a tank. I was debating on the Stage 2 or the stage 3 but decided 3 was the way to go. Unless someone thinks I should 2 then i'll hear their opinion. Basically it was between 8.8:1 or 9.3:1 CR.

Again, I dont really care about fuel economy.

Build plans and parts list so far:

Modified poor mans stroker recipe but slightly different.

SCAT 9-4.2L-3895
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Keeping stock deck height, may need a little shaved off to clean up deck
Icon/Keith Black IC944 Forged Jeep Stroker Pistons 0.030" oversize
9.3:1 CR
Stock 4.0 camshaft (Need a source for this, mines most likely toast)
DIY ported HO 1.91"/1.50" 57cc cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.0645" quench height
I have 4 hole upgraded Neon injectors in it already.

Clegg stage 3 stroker kit 4.6L 9.3:1 CR:

- Icon/Keith Black IC944 Forged Jeep Stroker Pistons 0.030" oversize
- SCAT 9-4.2L-3895
- Cast Piston Rings #E667
- Connecting Rods 4.0L 242ci 6.125” Reconditioned
- King Connecting Rod & Main Bearing Set (No idea if there are any good, I prefer Clevite but reviews on Summit seem pretty good.)

Additional parts from Summit Racing:

- Clevite Camshaft Bearings SH1980S
- Melling Camshaft Thrust Plate MG550
- Melling M-Select Torque Cam and Lifter Kits CL-MC1377 (Not sure if this works, its listed for 1999-2006 engines and they use a cam thrust plate)
OR
- Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft Kits P4529228AD (Also not sure if it will work, I know this doesn't use my thrust plate setup.)
- Melling MPE-256BR - Melling Freeze Plugs
- Melling MPR-437 - Melling Pushrods
- Melling MRK-551-2 - Melling Rocker Arms
- Victor Reinz 95-3568VR - Victor Reinz Engine Gasket Sets
- Victor Reinz GS33414 - Victor Reinz Head Bolt Kits

Additional Parts from Advance Auto Parts:

- Melling Stock Replacement Oil Pump M-81A
- Melling Stock Replacement Oil Pump Screen 242S

Timing chain, sprockets, snubber, and front damper were replaced about 25,000 miles ago. I plan on reusing these except for the snubber. Im sure theres some other misc odds and ends.

A final note before I publish this book of a post. All machining will cost me nothing. I work at a machine shop (I just happen to assemble diesel engines) so I have access to everything possible including my machinist who has 50 years of experience.

Thanks for input ahead of time!

Marc

You could copy my current modified poor man's stroker recipe (open link in sig) and use either a Melling stock replacement cam or a Jones custom cam that allows you to retain the later style thrust plate.

I did a bit more research last night and found the Melling MC1377 to be a direct stock replacement cam so ill be going with that and a set of sealed power lifters.

Your recipe is the one I'm going for but I was planning on leaving the deck height at 0.0215 instead of decking the block to 0 although I know doing so is to tighten quench. With the current plan my quench is at .0645 but I wont have to worry about using different length push rods. When I had the head off a couple years ago the deck was flat but it may require a little clean up. Ill know for sure once I get it pulled out in late March/early April.

I would use hylift-Johnson lifters ( http://www.hylift-johnson.com ) They are made in USA. I bought some a few months ago for $4.70 a piece. Order the lifters directly from hylift.

I think you are planning to spend a lot on a piston that will definitely slap...A LOT on cold start in your climate. Your build is better suited for a cheaper... better, hyper piston. Don't let these guys get to you. Using a forged piston with no boost in a cold climate is completely asinine. You want a sealed power 802 piston. This is fact.
Bring the hate

akadeutsch wrote:I think you are planning to spend a lot on a piston that will definitely slap...A LOT on cold start in your climate. Your build is better suited for a cheaper... better, hyper piston. Don't let these guys get to you. Using a forged piston with no boost in a cold climate is completely asinine. You want a sealed power 802 piston. This is fact.
Bring the hate

I have to disagree with some of your conclusions on piston choice.

The one part that I'll agree with you is that a cast piston is cheaper than a forged piston.

A forged piston made out of a 4032 Alloy has a relatively high percentage of silicon in the aluminum Alloy.
The reason for that is to give the piston a low expansion rate and improve the scuff resistance.

If properly clearanced I highly doubt the approximate initial .001 more clearance is that significant that you'd hear in the forged piston combination for the first one to two minutes of extreme cold start up. The strength and reliability will more than compensate for the weaker cast piston.

And finally for some reason he's reluctant to want to deck the block to achieve the necessary quench.
At least with my forged piston he'll have the correct dish volume without having to deck the block if he chooses.

Is there still no one producing a hyper slug with our desired deck height? Seems like a big untapped market. As far as reliability goes, less clearance = longevity, and there are still a lot of races won today, and there will be tomorrow using hyper pistons. Without forced induction a forged piston is more than you need, you are throwing your money away. I just don't see spending 300 on forged pistons meant to handle 500+ HP in a naturally aspirated application producing 230 HP. I believe that money is better spent elsewhere. Deck the block, buy the correct pistons, and get a few other cool upgrades as well. But that’s like, just my opinion, I think your build looks great and you are going to love the stroker.