2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

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aJeeper
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Joined: August 15th, 2016, 9:53 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 2000
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

Hi everyone, I've looked over this forum for sometime now and finally decided to make a thread for my 2000 Jeep Cherokee stroker project. I started a build thread on a local forum in my area and decided I would like to bring it over to this forum in hopes of better input and advice. I am already well on my way with the build but have a few things left to complete and plenty more projects to do.

My name is Alex and I am 24 years old. This is the second Cherokee I have owned and I purchased this Jeep knowing that it had a very bad engine problem and would need to be torn apart to determine the damage. I have always been mechanically inclined so I thought this would be a great learning opportunity; basically everything I have done on this build was the first time. First thing I had done was take some of the goodies off my original Cherokee that where better than the new Jeep and swap the parts. I sold my Jeep and got my old commuter car back on the road and started the work on the new Jeep. First up was to get it in my shop and start tearing the thing apart. Within one weekend and some help from my dad and some buddies we had the motor pulled and disassembled. I had the infamous 0331 cylinder head which had a fracture between the #3 and #4 cylinders. I knew there was lots of water in the motor when the radiator was nearly empty and the oil looked like gravy. Also I checked underneath the valve cover and it was completely full of thick goo.


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What is has:

33x12.5 Wrangler Duratracs
4.5 inch longarm lift kit
Bushwacker style flares
Heavy duty winch front bumper
Rear tire swing carrier bumper
Rear lower quarter panel armor
Alpine deck with a custom speaker box in the back
8 inch sub and a 5 channel JL amp running all speakers
Slip yoke eliminator
Gas tank skid
Hood vents
Tinted windows

62 mm BBK throttle body
Poweraid throttle body spacer
aFe Power 409 stainless steel dual collector header
Scat performance 3.895" stroke crankshaft
Scat forged 6.125" rods
Icon forged pistons - 21cc 0.030" over
Hastings moly rings
King main and rod bearings
Durabond camshaft bearings
Ford racing 24 lb injectors
ARP Head studs
Melling oil pump
New lifters
New pushrods
New rockers
Cloyes timing chain /sprocket kit
Howard's camshaft
Titan Engines new cylinder head with 1.94" intake / 1.5" exhaust valves + a dual valve spring setup - custom porting job
Valve cover studs
Aluminum valve cover
Brown Dog offroad motor mounts
Stainless 2.5" exhaust/high-flow cat/muffler
New radiator
Custom 3 10" electric fan setup
All new brake lines
New highlights / harness
AEM high-flow fuel pump



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My engine bay wasn't looking the greatest so I decided to freshen it up a bit. I first scuffed up the entire surface (as much as I could atleast), used etching primer and then went over it with a semigloss black. Some of the brackets are done with the Chrysler orange and various brackets and the booster are done with gloss black for a bit of contrast.

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After the engine bay was finished I moved onto updating the brake system and replacing all of the brake lines. The brake booster had some rust issues so I wire wheeled it up and gave it a fresh coat of paint. I got all new brake lines and my dad was helpful enough to bend the majority of them for me. I replaced the bleeder nipples on the brake calipers because they where screwed and I also replaced the master cylinder with one from a Dodge Durango.

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I got the block back from the machine shop along with the pistons assembled onto the rods. First speed bump hit me when I was designating all the rings to each piston and cylinder when one of the oil rings got stuck in the groove.. Unfortunately one of the pistons was slightly damaged from the shop while they where putting the pin in and bent the lip so I brought it back to the shop and they fixed it up for me.

After checking all the gaps with a feeler gauge and designating each piston with its own rings and cylinders I then installed the rings and moved onto checking the clearances for the crankshaft. I checked each main bearing cap using plasti-gage and all cylinders came out with great numbers. The ideal measurement would be 0.002 0 " and I came out with a 0.000 3 " difference between all cylinders with an average of 0.001 8" which I was pleased with. I then cleaned all the surfaces lubed it all up and torqued the mains down. Here's some pictures of that process:

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Once the crankshaft was in it was time to install the pistons and check some more clearances. After setting the ring gaps we installed the pistons 2 at a time, using plasti-gage once again. Removed the caps to check clearances / record and permanently install pistons and rods using the supplied ARP torque lubricant and torquing them down to spec. These clearances where on the tighter end of the tolerance but I figured they will loosen up a bit after some hours of running time so I was okay with that; no surprises during this process. Here's a few more pictures:


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After that was finished up we installed the crankshaft and timing chain/sprockets. Next up was the second major speed bump which I was prepared for but definitely took a while to figure out what I wanted to do whiche was the girdle / oil pan clearance issue. What I ended up doing was getting some nice hardened 1/16" washers and used 3 on each bearing cap which gave me a clearance just shy of 1/8". I then grinded the one corner off of the girdle for additional clearance and then bashed in my oil pan a bit until it was clear.

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Next up was checking the header and intake manifold as well as the gasket on the new cylinder head to check how all the ports lined up. Holly shit where they ever bad.. I had a new intake gasket from a job I did on my old Jeep and then one supplied with the header I purchased from aFe which are both significantly different. Both of which didn't fit as nice as I hoped on the header or on the cylinder head. What I ended up doing with my dad was using both gaskets as a reference and finding the best fitment that we could make with the gaskets. Down below you will see some pictures of the porting I did to the cylinder head. The purple sharpy marks are where the supplied gasket holes where located, the red marks are where the water jackets are (so clearly I couldn't port the holes that big) and the black filled in sharpy marks is where I would port the cylinder head to.

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aJeeper
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Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 2000
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

I have a gas tank skid plate from my old Jeep which requires me to take the rear bumper off in order to put on the skid plate. So I dropped the rear bumper and the gas tank, cleaned out the gas tank and purchased a brand new fuel sending unit. Instead of using the stock fuel pump I took the sending unit apart and purchased a high-flow AEM fuel pump to make sure it gets sufficient fuel pressure at all times. The stock pump flows at ~44.8 - 51.0 GPH and the new pump is rated at ~84.5 GPH, had to do a few modifications but it went fairly well, you can see in the one picture I used the filter from the new stock pump because it has a little plastic ring /grommet thing that holds the pump in place inside the sending unit. Getting that damn skid plate on was a big pain but I got it done and cleaned out the fuel lines and threw some 94 octane in the tank. I"m in the works of replacing my entire fuel line system because I wasn't to pleased with the way it looked.

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After that was all finished up I turned the Jeep around in the shop and got ready to put the motor in. I decided to devote the Thanksgiving 3-day weekend to get my engine outside and finish putting it together, paint it up and then install it. Let's just say I put in a lot of hours in the cold wet weather and it wasn't ideal weather conditions but it had to get done!! Luckily I have a shitload of tarps and kept the work / painting area pretty dry. Also did the porting to the intake manifold, didn't take many pictures of this but did a very similar job as the cylinder head. The pictures should speak for themselves; the valve cover was used for painting purposes only.

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The reason I originally got a new valve cover is because the motor prior to being rebuilt was just absolutely disgusting and filled with some nasty ass stuff so behind the plate inside the valve cover was caked with this brown gunk that I couldn't quite clean all of. It's not a 4.0 anymore so I got my dad to mill that off and then I might get a little plate made at a trophy shop or something that says what ever it is I decide (4.6L Stroker or something). Also painted the stripes orange to go with the motor I think it turned out pretty nice.


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I had to dremel out the sides of the valve cover to fit over the ARP head studs then gave it some touch up paint. Instead of using the supplied hardware I decided to order up a stainless stud kit off Ebay with a little allen key head on them. The gaskets for the newer 4.0 L's aren't the best so I got an older gasket for a 4.2 which has holes perfect for the studs. It also raps around the studs a lot nicer but I forgot to take a comparison of the two gaskets. You'll see in the picture some sort of orange mesh wrapped around the injectors; I'm calling them injector condoms but its just a heat shield wrap meant for spark plugs. I cut them in half and wrapped them around the injectors. It gets rid of the purple injectors and makes sure they don't get too hot under there.


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Finished off the exhaust system and it turned out great; however I still have a small leak from the collector that needs to be fixed. Front to back I used an aFe stainless dual collector header, the downpipe 2 pipes into 1, then got a high-flow stainless catalytic convertor and a straight through stainless Banks Monster muffler and exhaust. Entire system is 2.5" and it turned out sounding pretty damn good. I had to fabricate 2 brackets to hold it up nothing too crazy.

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I got a "heat sink" transmission cooler that I installed. Its a 15" Russell Performance cooler which requires AN fittings. I couldn't really get anything that would get me AN to what ever the transmission lines have or what's on the radiator side so I just cut the lines and got 2 90 degree barb fittings and stuck them in the lines. Unfortunately the one line was now too short so I couldn't mount it as nicely as I wanted; if it works really well I plan on getting braided lines and re-routing them.

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The whole coolant system was flushed out really well, installed the brand new radiator, new hoses and hose clamps. Got all the A/C stuff on however the A/C didn't work to begin with but I won't have to deal with that for a while now since its so cold. The K&N air intake I bought doesn't fit under the hood with the throttle body spacer which I was pretty pissed about. I have a few ideas to make something work with it otherwise I'm just going to make my own piping and used the heat shield and air filter. For now I'm using the stock intake with some more holes that I cut in the box for more air.

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Grabbed some gauges to monitor everything a little better than stock. Haven't figured out all the placements yet but I have one for transmission temp, one for water temp (which I am putting in my new cylinder head at the back of the motor. It comes with a 1/8" NPT hole in the back perfect for this), a oil pressure gauge and then volts which I guess isn't really that necessary but I got it anyways.


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One of the biggest projects for me has been the electric fan setup. I originally wanted to use my stock electric fan along with a Ford Taurus 2 speed fan and then remove the engine fan. I did a whole bunch of work with my dad and made it look pretty sweet; however it is just too damn big and not meant for this style of radiator. We scrapped the idea and decided to go with 3 10" electric fans. We started with a piece of checker plate aluminum and drew out the cut marks for the 3 fans. We drilled a few holes to start and then used a jigsaw to cut out the holes and then filed them down. Countersunk the back side of the plate and tapped the wholes and will have stainless hardware all around.


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We welded some support on the radiator side and finished all the wiring. Super pleased with the way it turned out. All that is left is to install a switch for the middle fan to manually turn on if for whatever reason needs to be. I'm also going to have 3 lights on my gauge panel to indicate which fan(s) are currently running.

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The 3 fans will work as so: 1 fan will be on the stock temperature setting so it will just plug into the same plug as it normally would. The other 2 fans will be run by a 2 speed thermostat out of a BMW. First fan kicks on at 91 C and second fan kicks on at 99 C. I grabbed this from a BMW scrapper and then bought some nice pigtails online for it. Threw it in a pot and boiled some water and then used a multimeter to find out which lead was what and if at high setting are both fans running or not, and to just see if it works. I grabbed a radiator hose adapter online drilled and tapped it to the size and then installed it inline on my radiator hose.


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Next up was the headlights. The Jeep came with after-market headlights with some blue led lights around the side and also had some other blue light wired in really sketchily. It was just a complete mess and really didn't look that good to begin with. I grabbed a pair of Rampage clear lense headlights off Ebay and also got a heavy duty headlight harness with a low and high beam relay. Used the bulbs from the Jeep originally which are some Sylvania's and damn is it bright.

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I made a relay panel for all of the lights/fans/etc. Dad helped me a lot with this one. Left to right you got: low beam, high beam, fan #1, fan #2, pod lights, light bar, fuse panel (4) with led's that will light up if popped. It looks pretty open as it is now so I think I will make some sort of plastic or rubber cover so it doesn't get ruined from water. One of the studs holding the panel is used as the ground for all the relays and is made to be able to pull out easily for access if needed.

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This is pretty much where I am at now; Ive drove the Jeep around a bit and seems to run very good however I am a little worried about not having it tuned properly. This is where I am kind of stuck on what to do and really is what lead me to this forum the most. I haven't been able to find much help locally so I am just awaiting a response from a few inquires I made through email. I will be updating this as I go through my build, tons more stuff to come. I appreciate any feedback or input.
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Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 2000
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

Quick mod I did until I make my new hood cowl so the K&N air intake I got can fit, and for better heat ventilation was to make the stock air cleaner box a bit more breathable ahahah. And I also replaced all the spark plugs and noticed the rear plug was pretty black so if it comes out back again I will swap that injector to another cylinder and then see if that plug turns black. If it does looks like I might have a faulty injector which is not good.

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Also scored a new front stabilizer that my buddy had laying around so I replaced my tiny weak one. Only have one picture of me in my shop doing a bit of grinding.

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Haven't posted in a while because I have had a lot of issues.. I got it insured and started driving it around to break-in the motor and all was fine and dandy until one night my friends brother wanted to check the Jeep out. Ofcourse once someone wants to see it something has to go wrong right? Wouldn't turn over so I jump out and all I can smell is gas. It blew the line off the back of the tank outlet and it was just pouring out. I'm not sure if the cause was an old shitty fitting or maybe it got put on incorrectly or possibly it was caused by the new high flow fuel pump I installed? Either way I've made a quick fix for now and have ordered up a full stainless steel fuel line kit with AN fittings and a inline filter. This should have been addressed when everything was in pieces but I was just trying to cut corners which is a big no no.. I'll have a wack of pictures once I get this setup. I also made up a quick fuel pressure gauge to make sure I had good pressure at the injectors - while running it was right at 50 psi.

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After that I drove it around quite a bit more, to work a few times and then I had some fun when it first started to snow like 2 weeks ago but then ran into some more issues. I originally intended to have the motor ready in the summer so the break-in oil I got was 15w-50 which is not designed for this cold of temperatures. It took a bit for the oil to get up in the rockers so I decided to do an oil change and put in some thinner break-in oil. Ive only got about 320 km's on the motor sofar and from I read you should run it for roughly 800 km's before changing to another oil. So I did the oil change in the snow and also put a larger oil filter on for more volume. The next day heading home from work it seemed to take a very long time to build oil pressure but it did; eventually. The following morning after I mentioned this to my dad I fired it up and again no oil pressure for over 10 seconds so I decided that's it until I figure out the problem. Shitty deal because we got a crapload of snow and its really screwed me over not having the Jeep.. Here's a pic on the front street replacing the oil pressure sensor in the snow:

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Oil pressure sensor didn't make a difference and I could just tell there was no oil pressure by the sound of the motor. I got my dad to tow me around back (in mom's stock Grand Cherokee!) and started by pulling the cam position sensor which had been making some weird noises previously. It looked dirty under the cap as if it wasn't sitting properly in the motor (maybe due to my melling high-volume oil pump?) and was rubbing on the cap, but it still has play in it while bolted down. I also thought maybe the oil filter had a faulty anti-back drain valve so I put another filter on - no improvements. Next up was to see how the oil pressure gauge on my cluster was acting. We had made a oil pump priming tool from an old distributor that you can use a drill to power the pump. We used this when we first put the motor in to prime it all up. This way I don't need to start up the motor and ruin anything further.

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So I took the CPS out and turned the ignition on and got dad to drill up the pump while I watched the gauge. It seemed to jump up pretty fast and somewhat steady but then it just started to do some weird shit. When I did fire up the Jeep prior I did notice the pressure would shoot right up, then just drop down to zero and that's when I had to turn it off and call it done. I couldn't trust the stock electrical sensor so I brought my new Autometer oil pressure gauge into work to see how accurate it is and its within about 0.5 psi which is good enough for me. Its a hard line install so I hooked it up yesterday and drilled the pump up and the pressure would smoothly go up to about 20-25 psi then would jump all the way up to 60 psi, even upwards of 80 rapidly fluctuating between ~30-60 psi. Something is wrong in there so the next step is to drain the oil and drop the pan. Luckily my friend is letting me borrow his shop so sometime next week I will tow it down the road and have somewhere warm and dry to work. I've read briefly online about people having issues using the high-volume oil pumps. I also seen a post on certain blocks the pump doesn't sit properly due to the milling done on the block which causes a gap of about .065" which could easily be missed during installing so I will check that. Ill most likely pull the pump apart and potentially get a new standard volume one and give it a go. The only other thing I could think of it being would be if the front oil plug is loose and oil is gushing out of that into my timing cover? I'm not sure any suggestions would be great. Next few weeks I plan to fix the oil pressure issues, install all my new gauges and switches, install the new fuel line system, install my new lights, do some fender cutting, and maybe paint and install the sliders I built in the summer.
jasonb
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by jasonb »

When you drop the pan look inside the oil pickup to see if something is sucked in there, this could cause the fluctuation you describe. Did you use silicone on the gaskets? I've seen one or two that had a ton of silicone and some ends up breaking free and plugging up the pickup.

Jason
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

I couldn't wait to bring it to my buddies shop so I decided to drop the pan and pull the oil pump today. Looks like I found the issue and its a manufacturers defect... There's a tiny little hole on the casting which goes right into the oil pickup tube area.. My guess is that the pump was sucking in air and oil through the pick-up tube which caused the weird fluctuations in the oil pressure. If this was there before installation I'm pretty pissed I didn't notice it.

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dwg86
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by dwg86 »

You might want to check your bearings while you're in there. I would also take a look at the cam bearings. Make sure you don't see any bearing material "peeling" out.
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by jasonb »

It appears you found the problem, have you confirmed the hole goes all the way through?
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

dwg86 wrote:You might want to check your bearings while you're in there. I would also take a look at the cam bearings. Make sure you don't see any bearing material "peeling" out.
I haven't had a chance to inspect them very good as of yet but I will once it is in my buddies shop. Besides the cam bearings where you referring to the rod bearings? Do you think this is necessary? Reason I ask is because that seems to be a lot of extra work. When I did drain the oil I only found a very small amount of fine metal shavings, less than I expected actually.

jasonb wrote:It appears you found the problem, have you confirmed the hole goes all the way through?

The hole does go all the way down into the pick-up. I figured Melling would take a while to get back to me and come up with a solution so I ended up ordering a new pump on a overnight rush service. Of course Melling got back to me the first business day and has already asked for my home address to ship out a new pump. So looks like I will have a spare ahaha or else I can try to sell it.
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by dwg86 »

aJeeper wrote:
dwg86 wrote:You might want to check your bearings while you're in there. I would also take a look at the cam bearings. Make sure you don't see any bearing material "peeling" out.
I haven't had a chance to inspect them very good as of yet but I will once it is in my buddies shop. Besides the cam bearings where you referring to the rod bearings? Do you think this is necessary? Reason I ask is because that seems to be a lot of extra work. When I did drain the oil I only found a very small amount of fine metal shavings, less than I expected actually.

jasonb wrote:It appears you found the problem, have you confirmed the hole goes all the way through?

The hole does go all the way down into the pick-up. I figured Melling would take a while to get back to me and come up with a solution so I ended up ordering a new pump on a overnight rush service. Of course Melling got back to me the first business day and has already asked for my home address to ship out a new pump. So looks like I will have a spare ahaha or else I can try to sell it.
Maybe pull a couple rod/main bearings just to make sure there isn't ant damage.
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by GreenYJ »

^^^^ x2
You're in it this deep. It doesn't take long to pull a couple of main caps and rod caps and inspect the bearings. If it's good then that's one less thing to worry about later. Just my opinion...
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

Yeah I guess it won't hurt to check it out while its convenient. I should hopefully get my Jeep into buddies shop today and will pick up some more parts on Friday. Planning to get a ton of work done this weekend so Ill have another update when I get time to upload some pictures.
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

Got the Jeep into my buddies shop last week finally what a hassle with all of this damn snow. But I got it in there and stocked up on some beer for the week. What a luxury it is to have a dry warm shop to work in.

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I picked up some goodies over the past 2 weeks starting with new stainless braided fuel line, an inline filter and some AN fittings (the regulator is for another project). Installed this while I waited for my new oil pump to arrive; replaced the line from the fuel pump up to the fuel rail. Used -6 AN hose and -6 AN swivel fittings and 2 special push on EFI fittings. I still need to get some nice clamps for the line but for now zap straps will work.

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My oil pump came in on Friday so I went down to the states after work to pick it up and got right to work. While I had the pan dropped I checked everything out to make sure it all looked good and it did. The cam lobes looked fantastic and there was no sign of excessive wear anywhere. I tried to pull some rod caps to check the bearings but I could not get them off... I was closer to damaging them than getting it off so I decided to just leave them. I did purchase a new oil pan gasket but this one still looked great and held up on the block fine so I decided to re-use it. I lubed up all the cam lobes with more assembly grease and installed the new pump and oil pan.

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After the install I used the distributor tool to prime up the system again and this time I got very smooth pressure indication using my gauge. Not sure what RMP the drill was at during this picture but I was happy with the way the gauge had reacted compared to before. The Jeep fired right up and sounded great, no valve train noise and the oil pressure gauge on the cluster jumped right up to normal operating pressure.


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The line that came with the oil pressure gauge is a plastic clearish line that IMHO looks like crap so I went ahead and purchased myself a -4 AN stainless steel braided line. I still haven't installed my gauges yet since I'm not sure of the locations but I at least got the fitting situation sorted out and ready to go. I wanted to use as little fittings as possible so I took the stock fitting off the block and drilled/tapped another inlet for my hard line. The kit came with a -4 AN male to 90 degree female 1/8" NPT so I got a 1/8" to 1/8" male NPT fitting and boom she's done. I threw a plug in there for now until the gauge is installed

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The Jeep runs great, I had no issues at all and had a bunch of fun in the snow. I got really sick again so depending on how this turns out I won't be working on the Jeep anytime soon. No Jeep parts from santa this year so I decided to buy myself one. Haven't got it installed on the Jeep yet but I had to atleast throw it on there and snag a picture ahaha.

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Russ Pottenger
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by Russ Pottenger »

Good looking building and write up.
Small piece of advice on the Fram filter. I'd ditch it.
Fram oil filter's are junk.
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by aJeeper »

Russ Pottenger wrote:Good looking building and write up.
Small piece of advice on the Fram filter. I'd ditch it.
Fram oil filter's are junk.

Thanks Russ. I have been using Fram filters for a while now on my vehicles; haven't seemed to have any issues. However what brand would you recommend? Or anyone else for that matter. I'm close to being done with my break-in oil and will be looking for the next oil to use. I'm assuming I shouldn't go to synthetic quite yet? Should I get some zinc additive? As for the filter I would like to use a larger size for more oil, if anyone has suggestions for oil/filter brands and viscosity that would be great. Thanks!
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Re: 2000 Cherokee Stroker Build

Post by jsawduste »

Brad Penn 10w-30 and Mobil 1 filter
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