Jeep Strokers

OK guys,
So, when i get my stoker all back in place and hopefully everything hooked up correctly, what do I expect on start up? I will have the Hesco FPR, which is set at 44psi, the 24# injectors, the homemade MAP adjuster ('till I can go to UniChip). Do they run rough at first? Is that factored in to the cam break-in time? Can anyone write up a suggested list of possibilities?

Thanks,
Todd

Dude, not for nothing, but you repeat yourself a lot. I feel like a lot of your questions would be answered by a some reading, i'm not even talking MAJOR research. I'd suggest reading people experiences in the PROJECT threads where motors have been built from scratch and have come to life. I know i outlined and detailed everything from the build, to the start up, to the first problems i had. Just a suggestions

I have a few items that I perform prior to attempting the first start. After I have the preload set I rotate the engine back to TDC verifying that the crank shaft if at 0* TDC and that the valves on #1 cylinder are both closed. That is the last time I rotate the engine before the distributor is put in, which is usually my last step. However I don't put the valve cover on yet. I then install the spark plugs. The night before I fill up the coolant system trying to get all the air out. Rocking the body helps bleed air out of the radiator. The next day I go back and I top off as much as possible. I then fill the crank case with oil and pour the EOS/cam break in fluid in last. I then prime the oil system by using an electric drill on the oil pump. I wait until I see oil coming up through the push rods and continue to run the drill for 5 more minute. I then put the valve cover on and do final checks like vacuum lines, all sensors are plugged in and check for any lose bolts. I bleed the fuel rail so that it is full of fuel and most of the air is out, by turning the key to run and bleed the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Check the coolant once more. I do one more final prime then put the distributor in. I then jumper the electric fan at the relay so it will cool the header during break in. After all that it has always started on the try. Some ticking from the lifters is normal until they completely fill. After it fire I don't let it idle and bring the RPM up to do the cam break in. Once the break in is done, change the oil and filter. Check all the fluids again. And then drive.

Oh yeah, and I make sure the battery is fully charged.

SilverXJ wrote: Oh yeah, and I make sure the battery is fully charged.

lol Mine had to be jumped by my gf's Rav4 on the first start. Dont let it idle, bring it right up to 2000 rpms for about 25 mins or so. I had someone hold the gas while I walked around inspecting for leaks. Make sure if you do that they know which gauges to watch. Temp, oil pressure etc... Make sure you know your dist is properly indexed! It took me several tries before it actually caught.