GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

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gabeM
Posts: 7
Joined: February 29th, 2016, 7:42 am

GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

Post by gabeM »

So I've been meaning to start this for a while. I'm about to do my first oil change... so far so good. I guess now is as good of time as any.

The Vehicle; 2000 TJ that my S.O. named Keekee. The best photo I have of it at the moment...

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I purchased this a few years ago with about 80k miles. I've been using it as a DD until about a year ago when it started knocking pretty bad. After picking up a cheap DD I tore into it. Turns out it was a broken piston skirt. After debating different options I decided to go the stroker route.

I started off doing a bunch of reading and making a spreadsheet to calculate static/dynamic comp. ratios among other things. Then I got ahold of Russ and started asking questions about what he offers. I ended up getting most of the parts from him. Here's the basics of the build;

12wt. crank (craigslist find)
Bushed Scat rods
Russ' 0.060 over Race Tec pistons, 22cc chambers
New Clearwater head w/LS valves/springs & port work
Comp 68-232-4 Cam

On to some photos...


Pistons right before dropping of at the machine shop.

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Big box of miscellaneous parts.

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Camshaft... 68-232-4.

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Bushed Scat rods.

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Rollmaster timing set.

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A few shots of the new head and Russ' work.

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I went cheap on an ebay header. It seemed to match up to the block fine so I decked the mating surface, bead blasted it, and did a couple coats oven baked ceramic paint. I don't have a good shot of the intake manifold, but I coated/baked it with the same ceramic paint.

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I bored out the throttle body and CNC'd a new butterfly valve. I ended up getting it pretty close right out of the CNC but it still needed a little tweaking by hand.

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In the interest of free time I ended up having the shop assemble it for me. I've never done a complete rebuild and was planning on doing this one myself, but after a few delays I wanted to get it on the road ASAP.

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While it was out I cleaned out the valve body and replaced the filter.

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Last year I was worried about the transmission overheating while in the dunes. I threw in a secondary transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I also added an external filter & temperature gauge (still need to grab some photos).

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I noticed what looked like significant wear on the pump shaft... Has anyone ever seen this before?
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Engine bay before install. It was in really good shape rust wise (as far as Michigan Jeeps go) having only seen one winter, but I went ahead and threw a couple of coats of Por15 over the front half or so of the frame.

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Just after getting it dropped in.

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The first real issues in the build came when trying to install the intake manifold. You can't tell, but the cheapo exhaust header was holding the intake manifold up & keeping it from seating fully. At the time it looked like more than I wanted to grind/bend away, so I ordered an aFe header.

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Here's a quick comparison of the two. The aFe is a lot better quality.

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I need to get some updated photos, but it's back in one piece and running well. Wideband/temps/oil pressure all look good. I still have a few issues and items to wrap up, but I'm pretty happy with it thus far.

Issues
- I have a ticking that I'm 99% convinced is coming from the bellhousing area. It was more noticeable right at startup when in drive/reverse, but has since faded in intensity. I checked the flex plate when it was off. It looked ok but I may have missed something. Double checked the torque converter bolts; All tight. Maybe something to do with that shaft wear? I don't really want to drop the tranny but it might be the only option.
- Cruise control was working after the rebuild but stopped.
- Air bag light recently came on.

Still To Do
- Fix above issues... primarily the ticking
- Possibly send oil out for analysis... Should I wait to get some standard (not break-in oil) oil in it and put some miles on it first?
- Get a cat/muffler ordered and ditch the stock exhaust. Any suggestions on a muffler? I don't want anything super loud.
- Install zeitronix ZT-2 & log some data/send out for a tune
- Possibly get it on a dyno
User avatar
SkylinesSuck
Donator
Donator
Posts: 545
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 11:11 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 1998
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: Northern VA

Re: GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

Post by SkylinesSuck »

Looking good! On the air bag and cruise not working, maybe the clock spring in the steering column? Did you disco the steering shaft at some point and turn the steering wheel? Because that will break it.
Russ Pottenger
Strong Poster
Strong Poster
Posts: 889
Joined: August 15th, 2009, 1:27 am
Stroker Displacement: 4.7
Vehicle Year: 2000
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Cherokee

Re: GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

Post by Russ Pottenger »

Just came across your thread Gabriel.

Everything is looking good. Keep us posted.


Russ
gabeM
Posts: 7
Joined: February 29th, 2016, 7:42 am

Re: GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

Post by gabeM »

Quick update.

I'm still slacking on taking 'finished' photos. I've been putting some miles on it back and forth to work and had a chance to take it up to the sand dunes last weekend. I'm closing in on 1,500 miles and a third oil change and it's sounding good. I'll probably send this one off the Blackstone for an analysis. I'm down from 16 to about 13mpg with a good mix of stop & go/highway.

The extra torque is great; More noticeable in the dunes/trails than around town. Funds are on hold at the moment (buying a house), so I haven't been able to tackle the intake/exhaust yet.

The clock spring is a possibility. I had the steering shaft disconnected for a bit, but made sure not to turn the wheel. I know some other people were in and out of the garage w/out me there, so it's possible it was turned.

Biggest issue at the moment... I don't think my transmission likes the extra torque. It's starting to slip and the fluid smells burnt. I've flushed it a couple of times with no major difference. I had a suspicion that it was on it's way out before the rebuild, so I'm not completely surprised. I'd like to stick with an auto and possibly add some type of manual control in the future. Currently looking into an AW4; Not sure if it's worth the hassle or if there's a better option out there for an all-around dune/trail rig.
User avatar
SkylinesSuck
Donator
Donator
Posts: 545
Joined: February 14th, 2009, 11:11 pm
Stroker Displacement: 4.6L
Vehicle Year: 1998
Vehicle Make: Jeep
Vehicle Model: Wrangler
Location: Northern VA

Re: GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

Post by SkylinesSuck »

AX-15? Bonus points for it MANual transmission :)
gabeM
Posts: 7
Joined: February 29th, 2016, 7:42 am

Re: GabeM's 'KeeKee' 4.7l Build

Post by gabeM »

Small, overdue update.

After a quick winter I've had very little time to work on the jeep. The good news, the 4.7 is going strong... The bad news, the trans is still on the way out. :huh:


The current plan is to do an AW4 swap and shortly down the road throw in a winters/Radesigns shifter. Along with the swap I'll shove the motor & trans an inch or so up & try to get to a flat skid plate, as well as open up the exhaust and hopefully get a good tune this summer.

I have just about all the required parts besides some material to fab up a trans mount.

Wiring harness is just about complete.
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I'm taking the opportunity to finally wire in the Zt-2, which brings me to my question... Where should I pull the RPM signal from? It looks like the ZT-2 is looking for a 0-12V square wave signal. Right from the tach isn't an option from what I've seen.


Thanks!
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