Jeep Strokers

This is a 1998 XJ 4.0 with some improvement’s. Headers, hi flow cat, Gibson muffler. On the other side is a 62mm TB, cold air system (although there is not too much gold air under the hood to be had) 24 lb 4 hole injectors and a high output coil and plug wires that allows me to gap the plugs to 56/100 . I am going to put on 1.7 roller rockers this Friday.
Now I am stuck and a little confused as to what I what to do next. I want to put on a really good head and then a cam but I am not sure if what I want is the right thing.
So maybe I should explain what I am trying to accomplish. This XJ has 196,000 on the odometer and is a very healthy motor. I will be rebuilding it totally around the 250,000 mark putting in the biggest crank and pistons I can (I would love to put in a 4.060 crank) but for right now I am building this little by little top to bottom putting in parts that will work with each other that will help me reach my final goal.
This is my goal ; I want the torque to come on hard around 800 and to continue to poll hard up to 3000, running flat to 4500 then dropping off. This xj is going to be a do all and be everything jeep. It needs to crawl when I need it to, tow a trailer and cruse all day at 70 miles an hour (that is about 2500 RPMs for me). On regular gas.
I would like a head next but, I am not sure what head. I have read so much about heads my head is swimming, very confusing. I am not understanding what kind of head I should put on to maximize what I have now and to add to the end goal.

any advice?
thanks guys

If you want to read a build with an off set ground crank, here is one with a 4.20 stroke crank for 306 cubic inches:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=601

I have an off set ground crank on the shelf that was turned down to Honda bearing size. Think stroke is set to 4.095 and used Chevy/Honda rods. It is good for about an extra 15 cubic inches. Not sure it is worth the extra $$.

With a crank offset ground to that extent, I'd be concerned about the clearance of the rod bolts/nuts from the camshaft and from the sides of the block.
On a '96+ engine they definitely wouldn't clear the main cap girdle even if you added spacer shims so you'd have to delete the girdle altogether.
Have you performed a bottom end mock-up assembly with that crank in place?

I see that heartlandoffroad did a grate job with his stroker. cash wise WOW, a way to much cash to though at a motor (for me). but over 300 foot lbs at 3800 is very impressive to be sure. I think I will come down a bit on my expectations on this build. I think I will get a really good head and stick with the 3.8" crank. but the head thing has be really confused as to what I should get. the crank is a no brainier at this point. anyone have any Ideas on a good head for this build?
thanks to ever one. heartlandoffroad thread was a good read and an eye opener.

As I recall Russ Pottenger's flow tests with the ported Edelbrock aluminum head vs the ported stock High Output head were a push. Only advantage to the Edelbrock head was less weight because it is aluminum. And it also lightened your wallet by a considerable extra amount. The Hesco aluminum head may require less work and flow a bit more as is and flow the same as or a bit better than the ported stock Iron head.

well I have read until I can not read any more about heads. now I know why Aluminum heads have to be one point higher to equal the same energy release as Iron heads. now that I understand a little more, I think I will get Russ to port one of his Iron heads for me. the Aluminum heads are to much money for not the kind of return I want and the durability is grater with Iron. you guys put me on the right track and I thank you .

Aluminum heads allow you to run more compression, and more timing, because they aren't as prone to hot spots, pre-ignition, or detonation.

The only downside to aluminum is $$$, its superior to iron in every other aspect.