Jeep Strokers

The goal is to build my first stroker for the lest cash with the most hp, I'm kind of a pipe dreamer
What I have, 98 TJ with a 4.0 runs ok 175k low compression with some blow by, a good long 258 crank and rods. I plan to purchase a low mile 92 4.0 from an XJ complet with ECU and harness, bore and pistons are good.
Cash is very tight and I'd rather not be disabled to long hence the second engine. It also allows me to build as I can afford it.
My planned build with some holes.
Block: 92 4.0 DIY hone, decked
Crank: stock 258 shortened
Rods: stock 258
Pistons: stock 92 4.0
Head: stock 92 4.0 decked with DIY gasket match
Valve train: stock 92 4.0 w/triple cut
Push rods: reuse 92 4.0
Intake: stock 98 4.0
TB: stock 98 4.0
Injectors: reuse 98 4.0 ???
Cam: ???? Has to be streetable good low end for trails & good from Sea Level to 6000ft min
Distributor: reuse 98 4.0, any thing to do here?
Timing chain: reuse 92 4.0 if it checks out if not?
Exhaust manifold: reuse stock 98 4.0 or new header if there's money available at the end.
Rings bearings gaskets: new, anything I need to know about the mains?

Unused parts from the 92, sold to offset costs the 98 engine saved for future.
I'm sure I've left out some stuff. All advice is not just welcome but needed. This is my first stroker and first time in the I6.
Thanks in advance for the help with this.

A few thoughts,
There are a few ways to build relatively low-cost short rod budget Stroker that can make some decent torque and power.

In my opinion the first step would be to tighten up the deck and create a good quench. That along with the proper camshaft will help a bunch in the torque department.

In order to do this you'll need to deck the block approximately .040 to get it closer to a zero deck.
I have a CNC program that increases the reverse dish volume of a cast 2229 piston to a 22, 24, and 26cc volumes.

Comp cam custom grinds a camshaft for me that allows you to run the stock valve springs.
206 212 @50 .435 In .448 Ex lift on 113•
I would just go ahead and replace the timing set. A new OEM is only about $40.00

If you're interested I'd be more than happy to pencil up a low-cost kit for you and go over in greater detail on the phone to answer any questions that you might have.

As always other opinions are welcome

Thanks,
Russ
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
(626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]

Thanks for the reply. I'd be very interested in seeing what you could put together for me. As far as increasing the quench and dishing the pistons, two things one are you dishing the stock prisons I have and two what is the benefit of decking the block and increasing the cc with a dish?
Thanks much

The objective is to decrease ( less piston to head clearance) the quench.

To decrease the cost and cut down machine set up time I usually do 5 to 6 sets min at a time.
Doing that I'm able to sell a finished set of Pistons for $200.00 a set.

When your decking the block in order to move the piston
up the cylinder at TDC, you need to add that volume to the piston dish otherwise your static compression ratio would be too high.

If you want to know why quench is so important, here is a link to a David Vizard article. Look about half way down the story under "Combustion Chamber Dynamics"

http://www.hotrod.com/events/coverage/0 ... r-squeeze/

Sounds like you're on your way to building something like this:

4.6L low-buck stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Custom forged +0.030" bore pistons, compression height 1.380", dish volume 18cc
9.6:1 CR
CompCams 206/212 degree camshaft
Ported HO cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.043" quench height
Ford 24lb/hr injectors for '96-'04 engines

If you use the shorter 258 rods and dished 2229 pistons, you'd need to have almost 0.050" shaved from the block (actual amount will depend on manufacturing variances in block deck height & connecting rods) to bring it to zero deck. You'd also need ~0.050" shorter pushrods (need a pushrod length checker to confirm) to correct for the change the lifter preload. On the other hand you could order a set of custom pistons from Russ, use the longer 4.0 rods, and avoid both the need for block decking and for shorter pushrods. The cost might end up being almost the same.

Thx
I've spoke to Russ and I now understand quench:) I definitely want to go with the 4.0 rods and custom pistons but as my title suggests cash is Very tight Rt now so I'm trying to get creative and see how to get this done as "right" as possible on a tight budget. Some sacrifices will have to be made whether that's this build or elsewhere in my life. A steady diet of top ramen maybe in my future.

Russ and Dino are spot on and are great folks.

Quench is one of the main factors in building a successful engine.

The 4.0 parts will put you light years ahead.

Ramen comes in beef and chicken just do you know.

Listen to these guys, it will save you money and heartache in the long run. Oh and you forgot about "shrimp" ramen.

Russ and Dino's advice is obviously great advice! I plan to follow there's as well as others as much as my budget will allow. Jsawduste on the other hand doesn't have my trust yet anyone that would forget about shrimp Ramen I just don't know

I just got back from the machine shop and my machinist has done several 4.0 strokers with the 258 crank but wasn't familiar with the long crank as far as shortening it can someone give me specs/instructions that I can pass along to him

TJW319 wrote:I just got back from the machine shop and my machinist has done several 4.0 strokers with the 258 crank but wasn't familiar with the long crank as far as shortening it can someone give me specs/instructions that I can pass along to him

If it makes it easier for you I've made up a bunch of spacers that have the Keyway cut in it.
You just slide on the snout before you install your dampner bolt and washer and you're good to go.

Russ Pottenger wrote:If it makes it easier for you I've made up a bunch of spacers that have the Keyway cut in it.

I also have a long snout 258 crank in my engine and I just simply had a spacer made by cutting a 10mm thick slice off the back of an old harmonic balancer on a lathe.

After my stroker is built and up and running, is there tuning that needs to be done? If so is it done at a shop or?

Talk to [email protected] about having your OBD II ECU remapped.