Jeep Strokers

Comp 68-232-4 stupid me put in old lifters and develoved a tick around 1500-2000 rpm s . The symptoms are when warm tick gets quieter. Acceleration and deceleration no ticking. Only noticeable at constant speed. That's a recap.

I'll have to pull it all the way out to take good pictures. Even though its an eagle hopefully if I pull the radiator and condenser I can slide the can straight out. My luck probably not.

Chris,
Installing used lifters on a new cam was a wrong decision.
If you installed used lifters on a new OEM wide lobe cam you would've had the same results.

The lifter turns/spins during its up and down travel in the lifter bore.
This is achieved by a ground taper on the cam lobe and a slight crown on the bottom of the lifter.
Because the camshaft lobe is off center in the lifter bore, it induces the spinning of the lifter.

It's this relation of lobe taper, lifter crown, lobe offset and oil additives that is critical cam survival not the width of the lobe.

Well that's good to know thank you. Before I attempt my next trick one handed my taking the cam out it appears the only lobe that has noticble friction is on the second going towards the rear. Stuck lifter damage ? Everything else seems to look shiny normal. All my lifters are not concaved, maybe dead flat but you can see an inner circle on them. I will post a good pic of them. Nether less they will be replaced with or without new camshaft.

Since you have the head off, you should probably inspect the cylinder walls just to rule out piston damage. The reason I suggest it is because piston failure or scuffing can be mistaken for valvetrain noise, and it would be better to rule that out now instead of having to tear it into it again if the noise is still there after putting it back together again. Positioning the pistons all the way to the bottom and viewing it from the top is sometimes not enough to look for cylinder wall scuffing, sometimes you have to look at it from the bottom with the oil pan removed. Just a suggestion. Really wish you had a video of the noise though.

Sounds like a lifter tick. It started after my first oil change. Only 50 miles on the engine. I can't see a cam shot under 75 miles. No shortage on oil at anytime either

When you put used lifters on a new cam failure is guaranteed. That action can damage a camshaft in short order.

Live and learn I guess. At least its not the bottom end. Cams are relatively cheap atleast and my labor is free.

amceaglesx4 wrote:Live and learn I guess. At least its not the bottom end. Cams are relatively cheap atleast and my labor is free.

In your case looks like you caught it pretty early and got lucky,
but whenever you lose a cam lobe it's advisable to pull and clean the oil pan and look at couple of rod and main bearings.

Lucky as in I probably don't need a new cam or replace the bottom end lol ? I'm still going to pull the can and take some good pics first.

amceaglesx4 wrote:Lucky as in I probably don't need a new cam or replace the bottom end lol ? I'm still going to pull the can and take some good pics first.

Think of the $250.00 you'll spend for the cam, lifters, and gaskets as
part of the costs of a self funding good education.

Lmao... there you go. Always a way to justify something.

amceaglesx4 wrote:Lucky as in I probably don't need a new cam or replace the bottom end lol ?

Lucky if you don't have metal flakes sitting at the bottom of the oil pan and trashed bearings/oil pump.
You'd better drain the oil anyway and run it through a paper filter, pull the oil pan for inspection, clean it out, and cut open the oil filter for further inspection. Hopefully you'll find nothing worse than oil with a slight sparkle from suspended small metal particles.

Definitely. I might try running the rotella 15w40 due to the zinc. Learned a lot about oil a d zinc lol

Rotella still a good oil, and one the last hold outs with zinc/ZDDP, but you should still spike the oil with every oil and filter change with an additive.