Jeep Strokers

Ive done research and dont see whats stopping me but please correct me if Im wrong in any way. I am in the process of restoring a 1983 jeep cj-8 with a t176 trans the factory 258 needs rebuilding and figured why not build a stroker... The 4.0 engine im looking at is a 98 this should have the HO head right? and will the 98 4.0 bolt up to my scrambler? I would like to keep the mc2100 carb and understand the intake manifold from a 258 can be made to work and the exhaust needs some time but can be wedged in there. All the parts from the 258 are still in good shape. With all that said I need to reuse the crank and rods from the 258 and get a set of 4.0 pistons that are bored over to whatever I decide to go to? Is my logic correct so far? Then just port and polish the 4.0 head a little. What cam should I go with then its just going to be a cruiser and never see speeds over 60 for sustained amounts of time. Please forgive any ignorance this is my first engine build.

Thanks For Any Help ~ Jared

Jared, your logic is sound and it seems that you have a good grasp of what you want.

1. You can indeed reuse your 258 crank & rods but I suggest you go to Russ Pottenger for a set of custom pistons to optimize your set-up. He'll give you good, sound advice.
2. The 4.0 block will indeed bolt straight up to your tranny as it has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 258 block.
3. All '91+ 4.0 engines are HO.
4. I suggest you go for a '99+ 4.0 intake manifold and have that adapted for a carb.
5. Reuse the stock '98 cam. It's a very good cam for low/medium rpm torque.

Thanks! I actually talked to Russ on the phone yesterday and he was very helpful and informative, I believe Im going to go with scat rods and a set of his pistons. As far as the intake forgive my ignorance but what did they change from 98 to 99?

Thanks Jared

99 and up was when they introduced as some refer to as the Horse shoe manifold.

Not to avoid Russ or step on his toes here. He knows his shit and is very helpful indeed. I just did mine 60 over with a poor man build. I re used my stock 258 rods and sealed power pistons 677 . You can get them in oversized as well. My deck height is 50 thou under with a 43 felpro head gasket. Sure its probably not the most efficient but it still takes 87 octane with no pinging or per ignition problems. Yes Russ 's parts will be more efficient but will cost money. I'm happy with mine. It feels well over 240 HP and Russ figured I have a 9.58:1 compression.

My way was the cheaper way. These build can get very expensive.

BTW Google "gronk performance " on eBay. He sells an adapter the converts a jeep fuel injected intake for the 2100/2150 carbs. Buy a 4.0 intake and adaptor and you're good to go. I've done it

amceaglesx4 wrote:Not to avoid Russ or step on his toes here. He knows his shit and is very helpful indeed. I just did mine 60 over with a poor man build. I re used my stock 258 rods and sealed power pistons 677 . You can get them in oversized as well. My deck height is 50 thou under with a 43 felpro head gasket. Sure its probably not the most efficient but it still takes 87 octane with no pinging or per ignition problems. Yes Russ 's parts will be more efficient but will cost money. I'm happy with mine. It feels well over 240 HP and Russ figured I have a 9.58:1 compression.

In the last few days Chris you have been asking about what sparkplugs to use and ignition timing to star at.

You are hardly an authority on how well a stroker runs and even less on how it runs with 87 octane.

A number of us have been trying to erase erroneous knowledge from the internet and your comments are in direct opposition to the facts.

amceaglesx4 wrote:My way was the cheaper way. These build can get very expensive.

Cheap and good are not always compatible.

You are right I have talked to Russ. Second I never said I was the man. Just sometimes not everybody has $3000.00 to put into an engine. Sometimes people are on a budget and just looking for a new engine that has more power than stock.

I'm sure I'm not the only one that feels this way. Anyone else agree with me here ?

amceaglesx4 wrote:My way was the cheaper way. These build can get very expensive.

It was cheaper because you already had a spare set of 258 rods and you didn't have to buy them. However you still had to spend money decking the block to reduce the quench height and you would have needed to buy a set of shorter pushrods. Consequently, how much more would the build have cost if you'd just bought a set of custom pistons while reusing your 4.0 connecting rods, stock pushrods, and not decked the block?

Your logic is sound Dino.
I'll bet those old 4.2 rods were never recondition in any way ether. Not sound engine building practices, not at all.

True in the fact I had the rods and crank.

Rods were cleaned up. I still can't wrap my brain around reconditioned ! All you can do is clean then and put new bearings in. Never heard of a broken steel rod. I guess I just don't understand putting big amounts of cash into something unless you have to. Granted I had a complete 4.2 serpentine block . I didn't do all this custom stuff and my quench is nowhere near 43 and it runs on 87 octane no problem.