Jeep Strokers

Hi everybody !
I've a 1988 XJ 4.0 RENIX + AW4 automatic trans and i'm going to stroker it!

Use of this jeep: highways road and offroad on slippery (hill w/mud) or hard surfaces. 4.88 R&P, 35"x12.50r15 BFG Km2

My idea:
- 4.0 HO complete engine from a 1993 YJ
- 4.0 HO head (home made ported)
- 4.0 HO stock header
- 4.0 HO stock manifold
- 4.0 HO stock injectors & fuel rail
- 4.0 HO throttle body (stock)
- 4.0 cold air intake kit
- flowmaster 2.5" muffler
- ALL RENIX fuel injection (sensor, wiring, ecu.....)
- 1984 CJ 258 crankshaft and connecting rods
- 0,60 4.0 pistons
- Camshaft comp cam 68-232-4
- Hi volume oil pump
- ARP head bolt
-Hesco 640177 renix-mopar adapter

The project has already begun and many stuff are been buy, but i'm not very sure about this mix.

-Camshaft need new valve spring?
- ho to chose the right torque converter for AW4+stroker?

any suggestions would be helpful!!! Thanks!
I live in Italy, and here aren't very good expert.....

Sorry for my bad grammar...

Buona sera.
Sounds like you already have most of the necessary hardware to complete the project.
The stock valve springs should be OK for that cam if you don't be take the engine past 4500rpm.
Your Renix throttle position sensor will either need to be modified to fit on the HO throttle body, or you'll need to make an adapter.

Cheromaniac wrote:Buona sera.
Sounds like you already have most of the necessary hardware to complete the project.
The stock valve springs should be OK for that cam if you don't be take the engine past 4500rpm.

a good replacement for the valve spring?
i wish 5200-5500 RPM, like ad Ho motor (if renix handle this rev ), but low end torque.
The Camshaft is not been buy, i can change it o buy a complete kit. but i m not sure which one...

Cheromaniac wrote:Your Renix throttle position sensor will either need to be modified to fit on the HO throttle body, or you'll need to make an adapter.

i' ve buy hesco 640177 TPS renix-mopar adapter


Any idea about how much power and torque with my stroker build ?

The Renix ECU will keep the rev limiter at 5000rpm and with the 68-232-4 camshaft, that's as high as you'd need to go anyway.
HP should be in the 230-250 range and TQ should be in the 310-320 range at the crankshaft depending on the quality of the head porting.

Gasket: Felpro complete kit is correct for the head?

Other stuff:
for the engine:

- Comp cam Small SK-Kit SK68-232-4
- Comp cam Valve Springs 926-12
- Comp cam Steel Retainers 744-12
- Comp cam Valve Locks 603-12
- Comp cam Valve Seals 504-12
- Pacesetter header 70-1192
- Hesco High Flow Water Pump HF58-455
- Hesco High Flow Thermostat Housing HFTH4
- Hesco 60mm Throttle Body Spacer HES40TBS (used-free)

for AW-4

- transgo 340-HD2 reprogramming kit
- radesign Rail 2 shift controller
- auxiliary oil cooler (used from a '04 WJ 4.7 H.O. - free )
- new torque coverter (replacement- stock spec)



ONLY if engine run bad:
- big injector
- Hesco fuel pressure regulator
- big throttle body

I forgot to write something important!
Here in Itay, MINIMUM octane rating for unleaded gasoline is 95 (RON) for standard unleaded gasoline and 100 (RON) for premium unleaded gasoline.

Andre_ITALY wrote:for the engine:

- Comp cam Valve Springs 926-12

Those springs are far too stiff. You could consider these:

http://www.hesco.us/products/7758/valve ... qUSnCp9600

A few things to add to Dino's comments.

The Comp 68--232-4 cam is a good overall choice. Because they're complete kit also covers the earlier 4.2/258 engines,
just the camshaft, lifters, and timing set will work for a 4.0. Plus at better quality and less cost you can go with a Rollmaster billet steel and a one-piece full roller timing chain.

Regarding valve springs. A factory replacement valve spring will work if your very careful setting up your install spring heights. At gross valve lift of .476 you'll be .050 to .060 from coil bind. That's as close as I'd want to be.

The Hesco Spring will require cutting the spring pocket.
If you go that route, you might consider doing a Chevy LS valve and spring upgrade.
That's what I do and all my heads.

Lastly if you're going use a 258 rod, I have a CNC program that increases the existing reverse dome dish on a 2229 piston to 22, 24, and 26cc. That allows you to run a tight quench.
That way you can increase your static compression ratio to run on a given gasoline octane level.

Feel free to shoot me a email or PM if I can help in anyway.

Russ

Hesco doesn't have the springs anymore I called

Hesco doesn't have the springs anymore I called. The gent who used to make the retainers locks and springs for them passed a while back.

Andre could go for Mopar Performance P5249464 springs with matching retainers and keepers if he can find them.

Russ Pottenger wrote: Plus at better quality and less cost you can go with a Rollmaster billet steel and a one-piece full roller timing chain.

do you have p/n?

Russ Pottenger wrote:
If you go that route, you might consider doing a Chevy LS valve and spring upgrade.
That's what I do and all my heads.

What benefits they give? p/n?

Russ Pottenger wrote: Lastly if you're going use a 258 rod, I have a CNC program that increases the existing reverse dome dish on a 2229 piston to 22, 24, and 26cc. That allows you to run a tight quench.
That way you can increase your static compression ratio to run on a given gasoline octane level.

YES, 258 rod. My pistons are Enginetech 0.060 for 4.0.
Interesting mod, but is the only way to increase static compression with my new pistons?

http://www.manciniracing.com/
Here they have springs if you have cam specs and requirements for pressures. They helped me a lot. If I bad it to do again Russ has the best idea with the LS set up. Big cheap and easy with LS.

Cheromaniac wrote:Andre could go for Mopar Performance P5249464 springs with matching retainers and keepers if he can find them.

Springs: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5249464 at $13 each x 12 = $156
Retainers: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4452032 at $11 each x 12 = $132
Keepers: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4529218 set of 16 = $21

Total cost = $309 i.e. not cheap
At least you have the advantage of being able to drop these straight in, provided the valve stems have single grooves, without machining the spring seats to alter the installed height.
You can weigh that up against the cost of LS1 valves plus LS1 springs/retainers/keepers, and machining the spring seats for the LS1 spring height, to decide which is better for you. The LS1 valve length is 4.874" compared to the stock 4.0L valve length of 4.912" so that'll slightly alter the valvetrain geometry and require some "adjustment".
Keep in mind that Andre lives in Italy and their machine shops may not be familiar with using non-standard parts on a Jeep 4.0L head, so deviating further away from stock specs adds more risk of machine shop mistakes.

Cheromaniac wrote:

Cheromaniac wrote:Andre could go for Mopar Performance P5249464 springs with matching retainers and keepers if he can find them.

Springs: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5249464 at $13 each x 12 = $156
Retainers: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4452032 at $11 each x 12 = $132
Keepers: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4529218 set of 16 = $21

Total cost = $309 i.e. not cheap
At least you have the advantage of being able to drop these straight in, provided the valve stems have single grooves, without machining the spring seats to alter the installed height.
You can weigh that up against the cost of LS1 valves plus LS1 springs/retainers/keepers, and machining the spring seats for the LS1 spring height, to decide which is better for you. The LS1 valve length is 4.874" compared to the stock 4.0L valve length of 4.912" so that'll slightly alter the valvetrain geometry and require some "adjustment".
Keep in mind that Andre lives in Italy and their machine shops may not be familiar with using non-standard parts on a Jeep 4.0L head, so deviating further away from stock specs adds more risk of machine shop mistakes.

At summit, 329 $+ 130 $ shipping & tax- duty

I live in Italy, location EMILIA ROMAGNA, land of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, Ducati....many good machine shop here
But only a few gasoline Jeep (and U.S. engine). A good (and honest ) Jeep mechanic in very hard to find.

This engine, would be a "torquer" engine for a DD jeep , not an extreme power engine for drag race. And an acceptable "gas pump friendly" because average Unlead price is