Jeep Strokers

I searched but could not find any information on this. What I have is an 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ ). I'm on my second rebuild this year. This first time, it appears I was running lean and the pistons expanded beyond design and scuffed the cylinder wall in #5 and #6. Got new set of pistons, bored over 0.40. And reassembled.

Now on the 1st one , I used OE spark plugs, but was told by UEMpistons I should run cooler plug, so I went one step cooler as they advised.

The Issue now.
I broke in and noticed the mini cats were red hot. Im now at 150 miles on it and this morning I checked it and cats were glowing.

What do i need to do..https://goo.gl/photos/DxEZhqb9UQMuKV7Q7
https://goo.gl/photos/1chKqNc3HhVGCbC49

Maybe your camshaft timing is advanced one tooth by mistake?

CandyCaneXj wrote:Maybe your camshaft timing is advanced one tooth by mistake?

Ok. Ill check that.
Thanks

What injectors are you running? And tune? What cam?

Was this just on the cam breaking @ ~2000 rpm?

I'm running Ford 24lbs injectors and this cam https://goo.gl/photos/XHiF8wT8st8K8EQa9
Far as tune, it's the stock ECU.

What is the number on the injectors and did this happen during breakin?

Yeah I noticed the glow ten or so minutes into the break in. I think the numbers on the injectors are 0 280 155 849

If it is just during break in don't worry. Put a fan above the manifold if you can. Your injectors are probably too large. They work out to around 27lb on the 49 psi rail.

I wasn't so concerned about it at break in. But yesterday morning I pulled into garage, opened hood and saw them glowing. I've been easy on it no WOT. Don't want another blunder lol.

I melted a 3 month old Magnaflow cat when the PCM was learning the 24#ers. . . Those pre-cats would cost alot more to replace. As said, make sure the timing is correct.

I'm still battling my Stroker build on what i believe is a fuelling issues. Need help figuring this out. The old engine died at 260k miles when #3 piston broke.
My jeep is an 01 WJ, it is now bored over .40 with 27.5 cc forged pistons, ported/polished TUPY head with Mopar head gasket at 0 deck, OE intake, BBK 62mm throttle body, new cam sensor, hi flow oil pump, new Scat crank and rods, NGK 6962 spark plugs (1 step cooler), Ford 24lb injectors (0 280 155 849) and the cam is from Comp Cams (https://goo.gl/photos/XHiF8wT8st8K8EQa9) . Reused coil pack and intake.
Now my dilemma is my original catalytic's (CA. emissions) get red hot pretty much at anything over 2000 rpms. My first build, yes this is 2nd rebuild . Anyway the first time my engine began knocking at 500 miles and found I was running to lean and piston #6 expanded to much and resulted in scoring the cylinder wall. Machine shop did not leave enough clearance and I was running original plugs. On this build I'm at 200 miles with proper cylinder clearance and cooler plugs.

Seeing the cats light up like a sunset I thought perhaps running to rich, but think it's actually still lean. I obviously can't adjust the timing. Any suggestions on what I can do to fix. Bigger injectors?

I thought of replacing cats. I have new o2 sensors to install, but I'm going crazy here. Help.

The only thing I can suggest is to install a wideband O2 sensor so you can confirm whether the engine's running rich or lean. The ignition timing's non-adjustable so I don't think that'll be the issue.

I would check the O2 sensors and MAP sensor. If that is fine then perhaps an issue with the cam timing. Check the indexing of the CAM sensor, but that shouldn't matter as it idles fine and runs fine.

I am kind of surprised by all the builds happening without having a wideband and recording a/f and sensor data. Even a simple gage setup would let you know instantly if it is rich or lean. That would be the first thing I would suggest.

I was hoping to avoid the purchase of an O2 wideband sensor, but looks like that will be next. Any suggestions on which one to get and where in the exhaust does the bung get welded to?